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I have 1989 S4. Horn not working. Horns OK. Fuse OK. Relay OK.
No power going to horn studs on pad. What next?
Can't find colour of wires from fuse to steering wheel.
Welcome to the forum Ken. The best way to chase this down is get the wiring diagrams from the work shop manual.Roger of 928-R-Us sells the manuals on disc for a very reasonable price. Your best bet is to try and find a used set with the full size color wiring diagrams. The factory WSM set is 9 volumes, gray binders, ans sell for $300 to $400 typically. If you plan to maintain your own car, these are well worth the investment. The disc has the same stuff for much less, just not full size color wiring diagrams.
Also, just a tip - the thread title is your rennlist handle - best to use something more descriptive of the problem, so that it is searchable by others later on (or by you for that matter). Something like "dead Horn" etc. Also, list where you are located as there are likely others who may be nearby that can help or bring over the WSM's and help you trace the wires from the horn pad to the CE panel, which is one stretch where there may be a break or short.
EDIT: What Jerry said is the very best place to start (we posted at the same time)
well the wire that connects to the horn pad is the grounding wire.
So if the everything else is good then that leaves the horn contact finger,
this is a part that can shear off if the multi function turn signal switch is not properly adjusted for proper depth. .
You set the depth by removing the lower column cover,
then looking up at the horn tab and see if its got a bend to it or is pressed flat .
if flat this is how the damage is done .
SO loosen the MFS and slide it towards the front of the car to reduce the amount of pressure the horn ring on the steering wheel applies.
At this point remove the steering wheel and investigate the finger tab .
NOTE you can purchase a new finger tab and replace it
We're talking about this piece to the right of the steering shaft. I had tried to repair mine in this photo, but it didn't work. Then found out you can buy the spring contact separately and just replace that, which is what I did. When I installed it, I out some copper conductivity paste on it which acts as a lubricant as the wheel rotates around on it, but also keeps it making electrical contact.
Can't get steering wheel off....need to get a better set up... using a 27mm head and a tyre lever but its pulling sideways off the nut.
I am based in Cheltenham UK about 12k from Paul Anderson!!! But he's not gettable owing to virus distancing.
Will try to source/buy a better square shaft with a good cross head as the wheel nut is very tight...tried WD40 but no luck so far.
Can't get steering wheel off....need to get a better set up... using a 27mm head and a tyre lever but its pulling sideways off the nut.
I am based in Cheltenham UK about 12k from Paul Anderson!!! But he's not gettable owing to virus distancing.
Will try to source/buy a better square shaft with a good cross head as the wheel nut is very tight...tried WD40 but no luck so far.
Ken
You have an air impact gun, like for wheel lug nuts?
Managed to sort horns....the cover/shroud behind the steering wheel managed to wedge itself between the copper live link on the column and the brass ring on the steering wheel boss.
Once readjusted horn sounded but after a short drive contact was broken again. Repaired second time and now horn working. Difficult to ensure contact will not break again...any
suggestions?
I now have lazy headlights.......they lift 60% then stop.... have oiled lifting levers and guide slot.
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