rear sway bar adjustment
03-11-2020, 10:49 PM
#16
Former Sponsor
What are your specific chassis measuring points to determine the factory standard ride height of 175 mm? What size tires were considered in this measurement? I measured mine from the base of the jack pad to a level floor: front = 203mm, rear= 203mm.
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
03-11-2020, 11:11 PM
#17
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What are your specific chassis measuring points to determine the factory standard ride height of 175 mm? What size tires were considered in this measurement? I measured mine from the base of the jack pad to a level floor: front = 203mm, rear= 203mm.
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
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PR3 (04-19-2020)
03-11-2020, 11:51 PM
#18
Former Sponsor
You tend to make an awful lot of assumptions these days and put words in peoples mouths. Never said they are junk. I personally have zero use for them when I find Koni's do a better job. IMHO. Doesn't really matter as I doubt Bilstien will produce anymore anyway. That's a good thing to me as it means I won't have to swap out that many more when people take other peoples suggestions as gospel and find them selves disappointed.
Anyone who spends anytime working on these cars suspensions knows the above. You are saying that my "shock sales' would drop but I'm not in the parts selling business, but I think you already know that. I've installed a single set of Bilstiens in the past 6 or so years after doing so on mine and I hated it. Koni's or Boge for me, unless specified otherwise, so far no one has jumped. If a customer has a car set at factory ride height and hates the ride of the car after someone else put bilstiens on it because it's too rough, too jarring and they generally hate it Imma do what the customer wants. Get rid of the rough, harsh, jarring shocks and put something on there that they would feel more comfortable with. And this has happened 3 times in less than that many years. One of them came from Ca and it was under your advisement to use them. That car I put Koni's on set at M and he is very happy, over the moon happy. I promised not to name names so won't. One of those cars is sitting in the garage right now and I asked him today how the ride was and he still loves it a year later with factory Boge's and stock springs. I did use one of those sets of used Bilstiens and used them to replace a customers well worn sport shocks and he's happy with them, he should be because it didn't cost him $1000.00 in shocks and he drives it like it's on the Nordschleife daily.
As I said at first, this guys issue is the spring/shock combo. Get rid of those Eibachs (we know those drop the suspension by a good amount) and he very well may be happy with the B's.
Anyone who spends anytime working on these cars suspensions knows the above. You are saying that my "shock sales' would drop but I'm not in the parts selling business, but I think you already know that. I've installed a single set of Bilstiens in the past 6 or so years after doing so on mine and I hated it. Koni's or Boge for me, unless specified otherwise, so far no one has jumped. If a customer has a car set at factory ride height and hates the ride of the car after someone else put bilstiens on it because it's too rough, too jarring and they generally hate it Imma do what the customer wants. Get rid of the rough, harsh, jarring shocks and put something on there that they would feel more comfortable with. And this has happened 3 times in less than that many years. One of them came from Ca and it was under your advisement to use them. That car I put Koni's on set at M and he is very happy, over the moon happy. I promised not to name names so won't. One of those cars is sitting in the garage right now and I asked him today how the ride was and he still loves it a year later with factory Boge's and stock springs. I did use one of those sets of used Bilstiens and used them to replace a customers well worn sport shocks and he's happy with them, he should be because it didn't cost him $1000.00 in shocks and he drives it like it's on the Nordschleife daily.
As I said at first, this guys issue is the spring/shock combo. Get rid of those Eibachs (we know those drop the suspension by a good amount) and he very well may be happy with the B's.
For what it worth, Bilstein has not been my "go to" shock for several years.....for reasons other than valving/ride quality. The biggest problem with a Bilstein is that it takes a month or two for the ride height to "settle in" (and they will "settle" 10mm-15mm on a 928) A quality shop will measure the car, realize this, and raise the car back to a reasonable ride height. The problem will be solved....suspension travel will be corrected and the harshness will be gone. The alternative is to just sell them a different shock.....and cast aspersions at the other shop. (^^^^^Your exact approach, above.^^^^^^)
Both work. Either approach gets the car back to a reasonable ride height and allows the shock to move.
If you were to dyno all the available 928 shock options, you'd realize how little the difference is between them all and how totally absurd it is to "swap out" brands (especially when comparing a Koni to a Bilstein.)
Again, the issue with ride quality is not the shock selection....totally tied to ride height and shock travel. Go back to my picture and look at where the bump stop is at 175mm. How many cars do you have at 175mm? (Zero, I'm betting.) Most everything is at 160mm or lower. Imagine how crushed that bump stop is at 160mm. Now, extrapolate how far that shock is going to move, when that bump stop is crushed at 160mm. (You do need to know the wheel rate to shock rate to figure this out..and it does change as the suspension compresses....but you know this, right?) The only shock valving that is a factor at 160mm is rebound....and sorry, rebound doesn't make a car "jarring".
No matter. You do you and I'll do me.
I'll quit confusing this thread with pesky little details like pictures and facts.
03-12-2020, 03:17 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
What are your specific chassis measuring points to determine the factory standard ride height of 175 mm? What size tires were considered in this measurement? I measured mine from the base of the jack pad to a level floor: front = 203mm, rear= 203mm.
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
My sway bars: Front = 31.3mm Rear 22.8mm.
I am running 17" rims with 225/40 & 255/50 tires
I dare say it has been covered already but the ride height is measured from specific machined pads about 1cm square on the under side of the front and rear suspension around the pivot point of the front and rear lower arms..
03-12-2020, 09:02 AM
#20
Wow, pretty testy response, when we're just talking out loud. I do appreciate your crude attempt to cast an aspersion, however.
For what it worth, Bilstein has not been my "go to" shock for several years.....for reasons other than valving/ride quality. The biggest problem with a Bilstein is that it takes a month or two for the ride height to "settle in" (and they will "settle" 10mm-15mm on a 928) A quality shop will measure the car, realize this, and raise the car back to a reasonable ride height. The problem will be solved....suspension travel will be corrected and the harshness will be gone. The alternative is to just sell them a different shock.....and cast aspersions at the other shop. (^^^^^Your exact approach, above.^^^^^^)
Both work. Either approach gets the car back to a reasonable ride height and allows the shock to move.
If you were to dyno all the available 928 shock options, you'd realize how little the difference is between them all and how totally absurd it is to "swap out" brands (especially when comparing a Koni to a Bilstein.)
Again, the issue with ride quality is not the shock selection....totally tied to ride height and shock travel. Go back to my picture and look at where the bump stop is at 175mm. How many cars do you have at 175mm? (Zero, I'm betting.) Most everything is at 160mm or lower. Imagine how crushed that bump stop is at 160mm. Now, extrapolate how far that shock is going to move, when that bump stop is crushed at 160mm. (You do need to know the wheel rate to shock rate to figure this out..and it does change as the suspension compresses....but you know this, right?) The only shock valving that is a factor at 160mm is rebound....and sorry, rebound doesn't make a car "jarring".
No matter. You do you and I'll do me.
I'll quit confusing this thread with pesky little details like pictures and facts.
For what it worth, Bilstein has not been my "go to" shock for several years.....for reasons other than valving/ride quality. The biggest problem with a Bilstein is that it takes a month or two for the ride height to "settle in" (and they will "settle" 10mm-15mm on a 928) A quality shop will measure the car, realize this, and raise the car back to a reasonable ride height. The problem will be solved....suspension travel will be corrected and the harshness will be gone. The alternative is to just sell them a different shock.....and cast aspersions at the other shop. (^^^^^Your exact approach, above.^^^^^^)
Both work. Either approach gets the car back to a reasonable ride height and allows the shock to move.
If you were to dyno all the available 928 shock options, you'd realize how little the difference is between them all and how totally absurd it is to "swap out" brands (especially when comparing a Koni to a Bilstein.)
Again, the issue with ride quality is not the shock selection....totally tied to ride height and shock travel. Go back to my picture and look at where the bump stop is at 175mm. How many cars do you have at 175mm? (Zero, I'm betting.) Most everything is at 160mm or lower. Imagine how crushed that bump stop is at 160mm. Now, extrapolate how far that shock is going to move, when that bump stop is crushed at 160mm. (You do need to know the wheel rate to shock rate to figure this out..and it does change as the suspension compresses....but you know this, right?) The only shock valving that is a factor at 160mm is rebound....and sorry, rebound doesn't make a car "jarring".
No matter. You do you and I'll do me.
I'll quit confusing this thread with pesky little details like pictures and facts.