torque tube while you are at it
03-08-2020, 11:22 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
torque tube while you are at it
84 auto
i'm planning to replace my torque tube bearings soon.
i've read that i should also plan to replace the torque converter bearings at that time.
i'm wondering how much more trouble it is to do the rear main seal while i have to torque tube out. is that the time to replace that seal?
is there anything else that's way easier to do during a torque tube rebuild?
i'm planning to replace my torque tube bearings soon.
i've read that i should also plan to replace the torque converter bearings at that time.
i'm wondering how much more trouble it is to do the rear main seal while i have to torque tube out. is that the time to replace that seal?
is there anything else that's way easier to do during a torque tube rebuild?
03-09-2020, 12:09 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Yes that's a good time to replace the RMS. Other things that might be on the list depending on condition/mileage - Torque Converter seal, Oil pump o-rings, rear transmission lines (Greg has a great kit for these) and of course CV Axles (you'll need to loosen the nuts prior to getting the car in the air as they are torqued to 300+ ft/lbs) Take your time and it's actually not that complicated a job, just a little cramped if you are doing it on jack stands.
03-09-2020, 12:35 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
i did my cv's a few months ago...good to go with that.
oil pump o rings.....i'm not sure what that might be. are you talking about the o rings that you would see if you took the oil pump out of the front of the block?
oil pump o rings.....i'm not sure what that might be. are you talking about the o rings that you would see if you took the oil pump out of the front of the block?
03-09-2020, 02:34 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Good ideas, AS LONG AS YOU ARE REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION FROM THE CAR!!! No doing so is a VERY bad idea. Ask me how I know...
If you are just sliding the transmission back and dropping the torque tube only, don't bother with the front pump seals. Front pump, and torque converter have to be installed vertically into the transmission. You will have enough fun getting the torque converter cover off with the transmission in the car, but it is doable. You can replace the converter bearings.
For a long, rambling WYAIT chock full of things you DON'T want to do, read this at your own risk:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ion-wyait.html
Good Luck!
If you are just sliding the transmission back and dropping the torque tube only, don't bother with the front pump seals. Front pump, and torque converter have to be installed vertically into the transmission. You will have enough fun getting the torque converter cover off with the transmission in the car, but it is doable. You can replace the converter bearings.
For a long, rambling WYAIT chock full of things you DON'T want to do, read this at your own risk:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ion-wyait.html
Good Luck!
03-09-2020, 06:12 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Another thing to consider is to check the reverse gear, very easy to access when the front pump O-ring is being replaced. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ement-diy.html
03-09-2020, 03:50 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
i just finished replacing a water pump. that wasn't so bad. but....wow...this sounds like a lot of wrenching.
thanks for the help, guys!
thanks for the help, guys!
Trending Topics
03-09-2020, 05:24 PM
#8
Might as well throw in the two transmission mounts as WYIT items.
Depending on their health and gap at the top, would be a great time to replace them too.
And yes it will be a lot of wrenching, after this you will get to know the 928 automatic very well.
Depending on their health and gap at the top, would be a great time to replace them too.
And yes it will be a lot of wrenching, after this you will get to know the 928 automatic very well.
03-11-2020, 11:52 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
Posts: 2,412
Received 314 Likes
on
164 Posts
For an amateur like myself, I thought it best to mess with the transmission as little as possible. I went no further than the outer (?) bearing. I don't believe that requires setting the transmission vertical - in any case, I did not. I did remove the TT and transmission together. Beware the re-installation of the torque converter - it takes some jiggling to get it home.
I replaced the cooler lines using GB's kit. I used a Constantine rebuilt TT and put his super bearing in at the same time. I suggest keeping it a secret if you do it, since it can lead to the rare outbreak of hostilities on this forum. I replaced the vacuum line, too.
I got my strut collars squared away while everything was on the ground - you know how they freeze up. The rear was too low. The front is still too low - need to get on that someday.
Ingenuity and/or small hands are needed on two of the bell housing bolts, including a long wrench and a cut-down socket.
I have a page on lesson's learned for amateurs somewhere - I'll see if I can find it. Good luck!
I replaced the cooler lines using GB's kit. I used a Constantine rebuilt TT and put his super bearing in at the same time. I suggest keeping it a secret if you do it, since it can lead to the rare outbreak of hostilities on this forum. I replaced the vacuum line, too.
I got my strut collars squared away while everything was on the ground - you know how they freeze up. The rear was too low. The front is still too low - need to get on that someday.
Ingenuity and/or small hands are needed on two of the bell housing bolts, including a long wrench and a cut-down socket.
I have a page on lesson's learned for amateurs somewhere - I'll see if I can find it. Good luck!
03-12-2020, 10:45 AM
#11
When you have everything down you should also check your crankshaft end play and then take steps to ensure there is no drive shaft movement at the front flex plate which could result in thrust bearing failure (TBF) in the future. There are a few options out there so research them and figure out which one you will want to use going forward.
Suggest to get two new pinch bolts, one for the rear coupler and one for the front. Make sure the drive shaft is positioned correctly in the torque tube (TT) before tightening the pinch bolts to the correct ft. lbs. There are some who also advise to put blue loctite on the rear pinch bolt so that it won't loosen over time. Make sure the rear pinch bolt slots into the groove at the rear of the drive shaft which means the front will be correctly set into the front flex plate clamp. Just got in another TT core return where the engine side of the 25mm drive shaft splines were deformed at the very end of the shaft which means it wasn't in the correct position when it was replaced during a TT R&R as you are doing. That drive shaft is now ruined and can't be re-used.
Many in the 928 community believe early MY year 928s do not have a worry about TBF due to the low HP/TQ figures of the engine. After fielding many calls about TBF incidents over the years, I have found TBF can also be induced by technicians and owners who have a poor understanding of the 928 automatic drive line and how critical it is to correctly install a TT back into the 928.
HTH.
Suggest to get two new pinch bolts, one for the rear coupler and one for the front. Make sure the drive shaft is positioned correctly in the torque tube (TT) before tightening the pinch bolts to the correct ft. lbs. There are some who also advise to put blue loctite on the rear pinch bolt so that it won't loosen over time. Make sure the rear pinch bolt slots into the groove at the rear of the drive shaft which means the front will be correctly set into the front flex plate clamp. Just got in another TT core return where the engine side of the 25mm drive shaft splines were deformed at the very end of the shaft which means it wasn't in the correct position when it was replaced during a TT R&R as you are doing. That drive shaft is now ruined and can't be re-used.
Many in the 928 community believe early MY year 928s do not have a worry about TBF due to the low HP/TQ figures of the engine. After fielding many calls about TBF incidents over the years, I have found TBF can also be induced by technicians and owners who have a poor understanding of the 928 automatic drive line and how critical it is to correctly install a TT back into the 928.
HTH.