David L. Lutz

I have the T. Converter out and am sending it out for modification of the stall speed.

As you can see in the pic. there is a seal Pt. # 018 997 044 7 where that the converter is inserted onto the pump shaft. Has anyone replaced this seal and/or is it necessary? There didn't seem to be any leakage before now.

blown 87

I replaced mine and the O-ring around the pump.
I also took it to a transmission shop and had the bushing/converter clearance measured.

Greg Nettles

killav

I replaced mine. It was super easy. I used a piece of 2" diameter PVC pipe cut long enough to clear the input shaft on the transmission to hammer the new one in.

I also increased my stall speed. The shop I used machined .250" off of the turbine blades. My car would not stall past 1700 rpm's before this modification. Afterward, it will easily stall or "flash" to right around 2400 using the factory tachometer and burn the tires if desired. This really helped the get up and go of my car and it still cruises just fine on the highway even below the stall speed (due to the low torque at cruise speed). So in my case, .250" equals aproximately 700 RPM increase in stall. YMMV.

byrdman454

I believe the seal is considered toast if the TC is removed. I would definitely change in just in case it got knicked during TC removal or installation.

I would also WYAIT remove that pump and see if there has been interference due to work reverse clutches. I was where you are a few weeks ago and just pulled the pump to change seals/O-rings and found the interference. See post https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/409406-auto-transmission-help-interference-between-piston-and-carrier.html

This involves swapping out some clutches.

David L. Lutz

Thanks all for the info.

Mike
Just the thread I was looking for. I will check my pump also.
Thanks

byrdman454

That pump O-ring looks like a pain to change. You have to have some special tools, or make some like Borland did in the other post. You have to press this assy which has about 20 little springs holding pressure. There is a small C-clip holding this together. You can see it in the other post.

Mrmerlin

front pump O ring is not that hard to replace, anyone that can replace a timing belt can do this. Just add some vaseline to the bronze bushing inside the front pump Radial seal otherwise the torque converter can seize on it

Black Sea RD

I did not replace the pump o-ring last time I was in there. Guess what I'll be doing shortly because of a leak that started just after I put the trans back in...

David L. Lutz

I can't believe you are telling me this. I really have to stop somewhere!

I really didn't want to go past the seal...

Let me take a look and gather my thoughts.

Thanks,
Keep the info coming

Mrmerlin

Hey Dave the upside to fixing some of these parts is that you wont be doing anything to them for the next 15 to 20 years, the front pump O ring is a known leaking part and now is the best time to replace it, also replace the radial seal and add some grease (vaseline)to the bronze bushing just inside the radial seal, its not hard and it definitly makes for peace of mind

David L. Lutz

I am ordering parts. As for the pump, are we just talking about the Sealing Ring around the casting Pt# 016 997 144 8 ?

Mrmerlin

The O ring in question goes around the outside of the front pump (its about 12in. in Diameter)so you remove the 9 boltspull the pump and then you should see it, also use some Dow Corning 111 silicone non setting sealant on the new O ring, this will keep it soft

mj1pate

ok.. so my replacement, donor transmission is on the ground. Is there a guide for doing this o ring replacement? And how is it best done to have the transmission pointing “up” to do this? Is it ok to to have it sitting up on the back of its diff?

ammonman

When I did mine I used a ratchet strap to attach the transmission to a two wheel hand cart with the diff resting on the base of the cart. Made standing the trans vertical a piece of pie and also made it easy to secure from tipping. Cut the heads off some sacrificial bolts and make a couple of guide pins for reinstallation of the pump. The guide pins ensure the correct alignment of the bolt holes and keep the pump square to the trans housing for installation.

mj1pate

when the torque converter is lowered back into the case, is there a tool we can make to hang into it as we lower it? Any special handling to get it fully in place?