Torque Converter Out, Should I replace seal?
#1
Burning Brakes
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Torque Converter Out, Should I replace seal?
I have the T. Converter out and am sending it out for modification of the stall speed.
As you can see in the pic. there is a seal Pt. # 018 997 044 7 where that the converter is inserted onto the pump shaft. Has anyone replaced this seal and/or is it necessary? There didn't seem to be any leakage before now.
As you can see in the pic. there is a seal Pt. # 018 997 044 7 where that the converter is inserted onto the pump shaft. Has anyone replaced this seal and/or is it necessary? There didn't seem to be any leakage before now.
#3
Rennlist Member
I replaced mine. It was super easy. I used a piece of 2" diameter PVC pipe cut long enough to clear the input shaft on the transmission to hammer the new one in.
I also increased my stall speed. The shop I used machined .250" off of the turbine blades. My car would not stall past 1700 rpm's before this modification. Afterward, it will easily stall or "flash" to right around 2400 using the factory tachometer and burn the tires if desired. This really helped the get up and go of my car and it still cruises just fine on the highway even below the stall speed (due to the low torque at cruise speed). So in my case, .250" equals aproximately 700 RPM increase in stall. YMMV.
I also increased my stall speed. The shop I used machined .250" off of the turbine blades. My car would not stall past 1700 rpm's before this modification. Afterward, it will easily stall or "flash" to right around 2400 using the factory tachometer and burn the tires if desired. This really helped the get up and go of my car and it still cruises just fine on the highway even below the stall speed (due to the low torque at cruise speed). So in my case, .250" equals aproximately 700 RPM increase in stall. YMMV.
#4
Rennlist Member
I believe the seal is considered toast if the TC is removed. I would definitely change in just in case it got knicked during TC removal or installation.
I would also WYAIT remove that pump and see if there has been interference due to work reverse clutches. I was where you are a few weeks ago and just pulled the pump to change seals/O-rings and found the interference. See post https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/409406-auto-transmission-help-interference-between-piston-and-carrier.html
This involves swapping out some clutches.
I would also WYAIT remove that pump and see if there has been interference due to work reverse clutches. I was where you are a few weeks ago and just pulled the pump to change seals/O-rings and found the interference. See post https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/409406-auto-transmission-help-interference-between-piston-and-carrier.html
This involves swapping out some clutches.
#6
Rennlist Member
That pump O-ring looks like a pain to change. You have to have some special tools, or make some like Borland did in the other post. You have to press this assy which has about 20 little springs holding pressure. There is a small C-clip holding this together. You can see it in the other post.
#7
Team Owner
front pump O ring is not that hard to replace, anyone that can replace a timing belt can do this. Just add some vaseline to the bronze bushing inside the front pump Radial seal otherwise the torque converter can seize on it
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#9
Burning Brakes
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I really didn't want to go past the seal...
Let me take a look and gather my thoughts.
Thanks,
Keep the info coming
#10
Team Owner
Hey Dave the upside to fixing some of these parts is that you wont be doing anything to them for the next 15 to 20 years, the front pump O ring is a known leaking part and now is the best time to replace it, also replace the radial seal and add some grease (vaseline)to the bronze bushing just inside the radial seal, its not hard and it definitly makes for peace of mind
#12
Team Owner
The O ring in question goes around the outside of the front pump (its about 12in. in Diameter)so you remove the 9 boltspull the pump and then you should see it, also use some Dow Corning 111 silicone non setting sealant on the new O ring, this will keep it soft
#13
Last edited by mj1pate; 07-12-2021 at 08:02 AM.
#14
Rennlist Member
When I did mine I used a ratchet strap to attach the transmission to a two wheel hand cart with the diff resting on the base of the cart. Made standing the trans vertical a piece of pie and also made it easy to secure from tipping. Cut the heads off some sacrificial bolts and make a couple of guide pins for reinstallation of the pump. The guide pins ensure the correct alignment of the bolt holes and keep the pump square to the trans housing for installation.
#15
When I did mine I used a ratchet strap to attach the transmission to a two wheel hand cart with the diff resting on the base of the cart. Made standing the trans vertical a piece of pie and also made it easy to secure from tipping. Cut the heads off some sacrificial bolts and make a couple of guide pins for reinstallation of the pump. The guide pins ensure the correct alignment of the bolt holes and keep the pump square to the trans housing for installation.