Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

1978 top end refresh

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 24, 2020 | 11:06 PM
  #31  
Petza914's Avatar
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 28,530
Likes: 8,342
From: Clemson, SC
Default

Originally Posted by AirtekHVAC
Late to the party (as usual), but just wanted to throw in my .02...my 78 (serial #30) does not have the AC idle valve. My ‘79 euro has it, and the ‘82 has it. All (3) are stick shift. Don’t know if this has any significance, and is of any help at all...just wanted in on the dogpile!

Great work and keep on posting!

Ron, you might find this thread interesting too as it relates to the AAV.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...7&goto=newpost
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2020 | 11:39 PM
  #32  
Rob Edwards's Avatar
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 18,765
Likes: 3,933
From: Irvine, CA
Default

my 78 (serial #30) does not have the AC idle valve.
Ron, by any chance do you have a pic of the area around your aux air valve (front right corner of the motor)? I'd be interested in seeing the hose routing on such an early '78.

Reply
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
linderpat's Avatar
linderpat
Rennlist Member
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 14,879
Likes: 2,800
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Default

Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
Ron, by any chance do you have a pic of the area around your aux air valve (front right corner of the motor)? I'd be interested in seeing the hose routing on such an early '78.
Here are some from Blumaxx from when I did my top end refresh. I have lots of pictures from that job, in various stages of disassembly.



Reply
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 04:59 PM
  #34  
hillofbeans's Avatar
hillofbeans
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

Disassembled the cold start valve for cleaning and replacing the o-rings. Removed the warm up regulator - two bolts, hose, electrical connector, and metal fuel lines.

In the time since I disconnected the vacuum hose from the brake booster, a puddle of brake fluid has formed on the floor under the master cylinder. Hard to tell where it's coming from because of all the leaky mess in that area developed over time. Like a lot on this car, I don't think the brake booster or master cylinder have been replaced. I think it's probably time to replace both, but is there something that I've done so far that would make it let go all of a sudden? I did a brake bleed a month before I started all this so it surprised me.



cold start injector apart for cleaning

warm up regulator about to come off
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 05:14 PM
  #35  
hillofbeans's Avatar
hillofbeans
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

So much help from Rennlist. I wanted to throw out a handy tip I've discovered (this may be the only tip I have to offer). I was also fixing up some old patio chairs and I had to redo the old plastic glides on the feet. Got some replacements on amazon (search
1-1/2 1-1/2" Deluxe Wrought Iron Outdoor Patio Furniture Glides Inserts End Caps for Table and Chair Feet (16, Black)
) and guess where they fit perfectly. No more rags in the intake holes. I have an extra 8 if anyone in the DFW group needs some.


Nice tight friction fit


Reply
Old Mar 25, 2020 | 06:02 PM
  #36  
soontobered84's Avatar
soontobered84
Rennlist Member
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,114
Likes: 344
From: Texas
Default

Josh, I'll be able to use those.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 01:06 AM
  #37  
grepin's Avatar
grepin
Racer
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 482
Likes: 61
From: Adelaide Australia
Default

Originally Posted by hillofbeans
I’ve got a basic ultrasonic cleaner and some Extreme Simple Green This cleaner really works well and does not attack aluminum.

.
Hey there loving your thread. Great help for my future projects. I am about to take on an intake refresh and had a ULTRASONIC in mind. What size is that? I was thinking about a 10L version. Did it fit the intake runners in ok?
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 10:43 AM
  #38  
hillofbeans's Avatar
hillofbeans
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

Yes, 10L is big enough for me. It even swallowed the intake distributor.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 06:32 PM
  #39  
grepin's Avatar
grepin
Racer
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 482
Likes: 61
From: Adelaide Australia
Default

Very good thanks for the info.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 11:03 PM
  #40  
hillofbeans's Avatar
hillofbeans
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

Starting to remove everything from the water bridge and the top radiator hoses. Everything came off pretty easily. Started to take of Oil Filler/Separator (don't get fooled by that bolt on the inside under the basket), but water bridge has to come off first. Felt lucky that I didn't break any of the 4 water bridge bolts. Tough, but they came out OK. Corroded enough to need replacement though. Lots of old leaked oil in all the valley and crevices. Found this baffle under the Oil Filler/Seperator. Part 928.107.707.03 This doesn't look original and I don't think the gasket is doing anything.​​​​​​​

Water bridge out.

Mystery baffle.

Not from 78 and I don't think it was doing anything as a gasket. Oil all over the place.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 11:31 PM
  #41  
Hey_Allen's Avatar
Hey_Allen
Pro
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 548
Likes: 39
From: SW Oklahoma, USA
Default

I'm not an authority, but the baffle is to keep oil slung from the cam from being sucked up into the crankcase breather airflow through the oil filler area.
Not sure about the seal, but I'm sure one of the more experienced techs or owners will chime in soon.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 11:45 PM
  #42  
grepin's Avatar
grepin
Racer
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 482
Likes: 61
From: Adelaide Australia
Default

Here you go.
https://928motorsports.com/parts/oilcontrolbaffle.php
I was thinking about getting one when I do my refresh.
Must mean yours has been apart before.
It will be interesting to know what people think of them. My car had a lot of oil in the throttle body chamber. Also oil in the V when I got it. There is probably a correct way to install it. Look up Dwaynes garage I think he installed one. I will try and find it.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2020 | 11:55 PM
  #43  
grepin's Avatar
grepin
Racer
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 482
Likes: 61
From: Adelaide Australia
Default

Found buried about 3/4 of the way down.

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...%20Refresh.htm
Reply
Old Mar 27, 2020 | 12:18 AM
  #44  
Petza914's Avatar
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 28,530
Likes: 8,342
From: Clemson, SC
Default

Originally Posted by Hey_Allen
I'm not an authority, but the baffle is to keep oil slung from the cam from being sucked up into the crankcase breather airflow through the oil filler area.
Not sure about the seal, but I'm sure one of the more experienced techs or owners will chime in soon.
Exactly right. It's a very useful addition. My car is supercharged and has more crankcase pressure from blowby because of it. I added Carl's (928 Motorsports) baffle which is a very similar design to what you have pictured along with a Verus Air/Oil Separator and combined, those two items prevented the oil ejection that was coming our of my breather vent and getting all over everything under the car and on the cars behind me. Now the only thing that escapes from the AOS vent hose is air.

If you have enough clearance you can use an OEM filler neck gasket between the engine and the baffle and between the baffle and the filler assembly. Alternatively, you can cut your own gaskets using your wife's craft cutter (Criket, Silhouette, etc). I made custom silicone water bridge gaskets this way by scanning a brand new OEM one, then using a thick material cutting pen in the Silhouette.

Worked like a charm and I've done this for a few other gaskets since then.

Custom AOS Install. It's a dual-chamber unit so I vented the two valve covers into one inlet chamber and the crankcase into the other inlet chamber, then vented both outlets to atmosphere. Separated oil actually drains back to the oil pan so no need to empty the AOS.







Making custom water bridge gaskets





Reply
Old Mar 28, 2020 | 12:10 AM
  #45  
hillofbeans's Avatar
hillofbeans
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Default

Cut your own gaskets at home. That's pretty cool. That motor looks like something old Beelzebub would have installed in his car. Looks like a screamer. I figure that baffle is an 80's Porsche part that is NLA. Clearly someone has been in this far before. I think the main problem is they just put it on with no gasket (either on top or on bottom). There's some sort of gasket material built into the baffle but it doesn't seem substantial enough to do it's job alone. Between this and the crusty hoses, there is old oil all over the place. Next things I removed were all the hard fuel lines into the fuel distributor

and the throttle linkages.
Reply



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:48 AM.