Mr. Brown, you forgot the very expensive US dollar which is up appr. 50% compared to a few years ago.
That has affected people in Canada, Australia and many other countries.
Shipping things overseas from the US is not troublesome but very expensive.
USPS Priority Mail International 20 lbs to Sweden is $ 110.60.
In Sweden customs duty plus VAT (appr. 30%) will be added to the value of the goods and also to the value of the shipping costs.
Åke

 

If the US vendor put a wrong declaration on the package you can drive 50 km to the custom office and a half day is gone. So big orders are ok but for 100 € you have to much trouble.
The next over sea order is Gregs clutch for the 86.5.

 

That sounds like a $350-$400 pan gasket.
That's why I understand and not only don't care that you post about how to do this, but encourage you to do so!
And I'm sure that many people have the same problem, in many countries.


Trust me, I'd be cutting out all 50, by hand, if that was the case, here!

 

Mr. Brown, I am sure I haven´t taken any business away from you. The stuff I make is mostly for my own sake and I find it fun to fabricate all kind of stuff for my cars, that is a part of the hobby.
Åke

 

I admire your workmanship and abilities. I wish I could find someone, over here, with your technical expertise.
If I had someone contact me from your area of the planet, I'd recommend you in a heartbeat.

 

I have a question about this pan gasket (please be gentle ):

Is this gasket more "forgiving" for installation compared to the silicone or cork versions in terms of surface prep? From standing underneath my lift, it looks like I could possibly drop my pan about 1 to 2 inches without having to deal with the whole crossmember removal/engine support fiasco. It seems like there might be enough room to lower the pan, cut and remove the old silicone gasket, somewhat clean the area with some solvent (I have small hands), and then install the new gasket. No?

 

This gasket wont deform and squish like either the factory or silicone ones will.

This allows you to actually torque it to spec and have the torque be accurate allowing the bolts to actually hold and not back out.

I would still drop the crossmember and do the motor mounts at the same time though. It's much easier to deal with all at once.

 

If you could drop the pan by an inch, you would still need to feed the gasket down and around the the bottom of the oil pickup tube, as it extends a good 4 or 5 inches into the pan, through the windage screen. Or you could cut the new gasket and fit it in place and pray that 6 ft-lbs of torque on whichever bolt hole you've seamed the gasket at is enough force to clamp it without leaks. Not a prayer that I would want to pray.

 

I’ll play it smart and put my “idea” back on the shelf.

 

I've thought about this and have some ideas about "cuts" in the gasket, for people that want to do this.
Although I install these gaskets with clean and dry surfaces, the material is very resilient to oil.
The gasket is not as flexible as a silicone gasket, so I have no illusion about it being able to pull around the outside of the oil pan. However, the gasket does not seem to be particularly fragile. I'm thinking one or two "clever" cuts in the gasket and you'd be able to squeeze the one split gasket (or the two halves) into position. Once in position, a dab of Drei Bond sealer could be used at the joint, just before installation of the oil pan.


I'd love to know how much we can get away with.
If you'd like to work with me, on this, I'd be happy to provide you with a couple of gaskets, with clever cuts...and one with no cuts, for you to experiment with.

gb

 

Umm FWIW you could drop the pan down after draining it ,
and remove the old gasket and clean the surfaces,
and fit a new pan gasket of any material type without doing any cutting or other stuff.

NOTE the gasket doesnt need to go inside the pan to clear the oil pickup,

it is fed under the bottom of the pan,
then fitted around either end,
(then slid forward or rear ward)
to fit around either end,
then positioned with a piece of copper wire every 4 holes to the pan ,
then lift the pan back into place.
Install the bolts a few turns, then remove the wire from each hole,
after the bolt is in a few turns

NOTE its imperative to clean the surrounding areas so they are spotless as the new gasket will pick up any dirt that it rubs on.

NOTE this whole idea becomes apparent once you follow these instructions

 

LOL, take your advice from people who have BTDT, not those here who are hypothesizing about it, like me. What Stan said!

 

I think a gasket stretcher would do the trick nicely. Move it into position under the pan to hold the gasket, then carefully lift each corner sequentially, and work it around into place.

 

My oil pan is currently empty and has been for about a month or so. I’m nearly finished with my cooling and steering refreshes so now is the time for me to try it out for you if you’d like. Though Stan’s idea makes it seem like there might not be any cutting necessary?



Using this idea, is there a trick to reach the pan bolt on each side that sit basically in the middle of the crossmember? I’m guessing just a really long 10mm box end wrench?


Lol.

 

Doug the trick is to jack up the engine,
place a jack under the bellypan,
OR under the crank and lift the engine up enough to remove the bolts