Lead Paint on Intake?
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Hi,
First time posting on the 928 forum, but I've gained a ton of information from it over the last year or two while fixing up the first of the three 1986.5's. I'm beginning to work on the intake refresh of the pipe organ and strip ( or just pick off) the old paint. I was wondering if anyone can verify that the paint Porsche used on these intakes did or didn't contain lead. Since I'm primarily using a wire wheel to remove the paint it causes alot of dust ( I am wearing a respirator) and don't want to contaminate my garage/house for lead particles. Thanks for your help.
-Ben
First time posting on the 928 forum, but I've gained a ton of information from it over the last year or two while fixing up the first of the three 1986.5's. I'm beginning to work on the intake refresh of the pipe organ and strip ( or just pick off) the old paint. I was wondering if anyone can verify that the paint Porsche used on these intakes did or didn't contain lead. Since I'm primarily using a wire wheel to remove the paint it causes alot of dust ( I am wearing a respirator) and don't want to contaminate my garage/house for lead particles. Thanks for your help.
-Ben
#2
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The original coating is powder coat no idea if it contains lead
But a safe guess would be to assume it does
work outside keep dust to a minimum use breathing protection if necessary
But a safe guess would be to assume it does
work outside keep dust to a minimum use breathing protection if necessary
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Thanks, makes sense, I was hoping to work on it this winter so outside is probably not going to happen too often, I guess in the mean time I can work on rest of the engine.
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I removed the paint from my 16V Euro S Aluminum intake with a wire wheel. As I recall it went pretty fast, looked good and has held up pretty well with just the wire brushed finish. When I stripped the paint from my S4 intake, which is Magnisium or something, it seemed to be too soft to really go at it with a wire wheel. I think I just peeled the loose material with a razor and then sanded. What was really needed, that I did not do, was to bake the oils out of it, because its porous as well as soft, and saturated with oil. I'm not sure what material is used int the S3 intake. If you are gonna paint it, go to a boat store to get the best primer selection.
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I too was able to remove a bunch of the loose paint with a razor blade, but the tough stuff required a brass wire wheel. I like the polished look of the wire wheel sections and wish I could make the whole intake that finish. I don't think it will work though as I believe the intake is a magnesium/aluminum alloy and will corrode again pretty quickly. I saw on an earlier posting someone recommended Sanchem SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU for sealing the magnesium after the paint/powdercoat has been removed. I contacted the company and they recommended the following process for sealing:
"MAGNESIUM:
Our product is A.S.T.M. B879-17 (Section 5.10) the new specification for treating magnesium.
Step 1:
Deoxidizer/Cleaner - Sanchem 560RTU
Rinse:
Step 2.
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU
Rinse
Step 3:
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-13062Mg RTU
Dry in place: DO NOT RINSE"
"MAGNESIUM:
Our product is A.S.T.M. B879-17 (Section 5.10) the new specification for treating magnesium.
Step 1:
Deoxidizer/Cleaner - Sanchem 560RTU
Rinse:
Step 2.
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU
Rinse
Step 3:
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-13062Mg RTU
Dry in place: DO NOT RINSE"
#6
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I too was able to remove a bunch of the loose paint with a razor blade, but the tough stuff required a brass wire wheel. I like the polished look of the wire wheel sections and wish I could make the whole intake that finish. I don't think it will work though as I believe the intake is a magnesium/aluminum alloy and will corrode again pretty quickly. I saw on an earlier posting someone recommended Sanchem SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU for sealing the magnesium after the paint/powdercoat has been removed. I contacted the company and they recommended the following process for sealing:
"MAGNESIUM:
Our product is A.S.T.M. B879-17 (Section 5.10) the new specification for treating magnesium.
Step 1:
Deoxidizer/Cleaner - Sanchem 560RTU
Rinse:
Step 2.
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU
Rinse
Step 3:
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-13062Mg RTU
Dry in place: DO NOT RINSE"
"MAGNESIUM:
Our product is A.S.T.M. B879-17 (Section 5.10) the new specification for treating magnesium.
Step 1:
Deoxidizer/Cleaner - Sanchem 560RTU
Rinse:
Step 2.
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-3400MgRTU
Rinse
Step 3:
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-13062Mg RTU
Dry in place: DO NOT RINSE"
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olmann, thanks for the original posting, it was the only thing I could find on stabilizing the magnesium for paint, any tips for applying the safegard or are the factory instructions pretty straight forward?
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#8
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I think the instructions are pretty straight forward. I use a tub and make sure everything gets coated real well. You shouldn’t have any issues. Post pics if you can!