Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

'79 5 speed Intro (Finally)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-30-2019 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default '79 5 speed Intro (Finally)

I picked up a '79 928 5 speed as an Xmas present to myself a few years ago. Your regular life excuses got in the way and I have essentially done nothing with it since then. I have decided I need to start working away to get it running or pass the torch to the next custodian of this 928.

Some history on the car. My best friend purchased this car in 1998 as a non runner. Previous owner had it parked for years prior. Our best understanding is that it is a US car and was brought up to Canada from California at an unknown time. Here is a picture of the car when he purchased it in 1998




The car had 4 different colors of paint. Don't know the original colour (was a browny purple). Interior was shot and needed mechanical attention. He then spent the next 10 years fixing the car including paint, new carpet, new front seats, and had the car running but fueling system still needed attention. After 10 years of commitment (and I think in a weak moment where another $1000 part was needed to be replaced), he tossed his hands up and sold it to his brother for a song. His brother owned it for several years but did nothing with it and wanted a different toy.

That is where I came in and bought the car as I have loved these cars since I was a kid. I was lucky to purchase a car with known history of the last 15 years. Receipts for all work done during that time ($40k). It has 2 of 3 big items essentially sorted (interior, paint). Pictures from when I purchased it.





Fueling system is where I am starting. I drained the fuel tank, ordered GB fuel lines for the engine bay, already have a rebuilt fuel distributor and fuel filter waiting to be installed. More parts will be needed but one step at a time.

It also decided to puke some engine oil last month. So I will have to figure out what caused that. Anybody got any ideas? Here are some pictures. Seems the leak may have stopped as it is not dripping into the drain pan anymore. See pictures below.



Hoping with more free time now to be able to consistently work on the car, get it running and enjoy the car.
Old 10-30-2019 | 03:55 PM
  #2  
karl ruiter's Avatar
karl ruiter
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,372
Likes: 196
From: Honolulu and sometimes L.A.
Default

Looks like you are on the home stretch. Just need to stick with it. Move through the fuel system step by step. Oil leak could have several sources but most likely is oil pan gasket. Sometimes this can be improved (perhaps not fixed) just by tightening the oil pan bolts.
Old 10-30-2019 | 05:11 PM
  #3  
997TTEQNY's Avatar
997TTEQNY
Racer
 
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 402
Likes: 51
From: Long Island, NY-East End
Default

subscribed
Old 10-30-2019 | 08:08 PM
  #4  
Geo55's Avatar
Geo55
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 754
Likes: 95
From: Trumansburg,NY
Default

My big oil leak was a rotten,disintegrated breather hose. But then, mine is an "87"
Old 10-31-2019 | 11:43 AM
  #5  
Petza914's Avatar
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,439
Likes: 6,846
From: Clemson, SC
Default

Congratulations - looks great.

I started with a 79 5 speed myself - it's become something a little different since then but is still a 79 chassis with K-Jet CIS. I would start with an oil change based on the color of that oil that was spit out. As someone mentioned, could be oil pan gasket on that side. If you can see that the oil is coming from up above then I could be the front cam seal (will run down the front of the motor under the plastic timing covers) or the cam tower gasket (look at that lowermost front corner of the cam tower cover).

From a fueling perspective, start with a set of CIS gauges so you can check the control pressure and the functionality of the WUR (warm up regulator). If those aren't set and functioning right, you won't get anywhere.
Old 10-31-2019 | 12:31 PM
  #6  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

Thanks for the tips guys. Will pick up a set of CIS gauges. The oil is cleaner than what is shown in the picture. It was changed years ago but never driven. But all fluids are 5-10 years old at this point, so it will be getting fresh fuel, engine oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc.
Old 05-11-2020 | 02:07 PM
  #7  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

Well I got the old rubber fuel lines off with great struggle. One was much harder to remove than the others (see below). So I got one metal fuel line in the engine bay that needs to be repaired or replaced. Also, the nut is rounded and beyond repair. Any recommendations?

Old 05-11-2020 | 09:11 PM
  #8  
upstate bob's Avatar
upstate bob
Racer
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 494
Likes: 1
Default

I don't know if you resolved the oil leak or not but wonder if there is an oil control kit installed? The filler/breather can burp a surprisingly large gob in a few seconds.
Old 05-19-2020 | 05:36 PM
  #9  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

I haven't resolved the leak yet. Currently no additional oil has dripped out since then.
Old 05-20-2020 | 10:35 PM
  #10  
scoper's Avatar
scoper
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 256
Likes: 100
From: York Co, PA
Default

Originally Posted by upstate bob
I don't know if you resolved the oil leak or not but wonder if there is an oil control kit installed? The filler/breather can burp a surprisingly large gob in a few seconds.
I had similar problem with a rounded off fuel connection. I got a used fuel line in good shape to replace it, from Mark Anderson I think.
Old 04-14-2021 | 02:45 PM
  #11  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

So slowly making some progress and getting closer to starting but came across the next item. So far, I have installed a rebuilt fuel distributer, fuel filter, replaced the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay, new spark plugs, brand new battery, drained tank, flushed lines.

As part of process to start the engine for the first time in years, I first hand cranked the engine. Next I pulled the fuel pump relay. Connected the battery. I then tried turning the key over and all I got was one single click coming from the panel. I tried again several times, trying to put the key in the ignition in slightly different positions and after about the 10th time the engine turned over. I put the fuel pump relay back in with similar effect. One out of 10-15 turns of the ignition the engine would turn over but not start. Out of those numerous times, we only heard/felt the fuel pump kick in/prime twice. I am in the process of cleaning the relays again and going over the ground points.

Do you guys think this may be an ignition switch as it feels random when it does/does not turn the engine over? Of the repairs records that I have, it has not been repaired/replaced in the last 25+ years.

79 5 speed US
Old 04-14-2021 | 02:50 PM
  #12  
Petza914's Avatar
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,439
Likes: 6,846
From: Clemson, SC
Default

Add a negative jumper cable between the negative battery post and the grounding location the normal battery ground strap connects to. The braided ground strap corrodes within the braids and stops making good ground which would be most evident under a high load situation like the starter.

Check the large ground strap from the side of the motor to the chassis too. The starter grounds via attachment to the motor rather than with a ground wire, so the engine ground is really the starter ground so that needs to be clean too.

See if either of those get you more reliable starting attempts. If not, could be the electrical part of the ignition switch or the starter itself.
Old 04-21-2021 | 12:19 PM
  #13  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

Originally Posted by Petza914
Add a negative jumper cable between the negative battery post and the grounding location the normal battery ground strap connects to. The braided ground strap corrodes within the braids and stops making good ground which would be most evident under a high load situation like the starter.

Check the large ground strap from the side of the motor to the chassis too. The starter grounds via attachment to the motor rather than with a ground wire, so the engine ground is really the starter ground so that needs to be clean too.

See if either of those get you more reliable starting attempts. If not, could be the electrical part of the ignition switch or the starter itself.
I cleaned the ground point including the one you noted. I then did the negative jump cable to start. No change. Same issue as before.
Old 04-26-2021 | 01:46 PM
  #14  
bigfish1744's Avatar
bigfish1744
Thread Starter
Intermediate
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 5
From: Canada
Default

After talking with Roger, I replaced the green wire. Fittings crumbled when I disconnected them. I now have spark, fuel pump runs, and the ignition issue has essentially disappeared. It now turns over and tries to start. Twice it ran for about 5 seconds then died. The other times it fires up but dies after 1-2 seconds. So making progress and trying to determine the next steps.
Old 04-26-2021 | 01:49 PM
  #15  
Petza914's Avatar
Petza914
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,439
Likes: 6,846
From: Clemson, SC
Default

Are you getting 12v on the plug that goes to the cold start injector at the front of the spider intake body when the starter is spinning?


Quick Reply: '79 5 speed Intro (Finally)



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:32 AM.