parking brake shoe replacement
#1
Bumbling Neophyte
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There is an excellent exploded view of the parking brake asm in the manuals, but no instructions on how to go about replacing them. I seareched the archives a little, but nothing. Anybody got a write up?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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as i recall this minor procedure, first hook the shoe that does not have the actuator on it, then connect the shoes with the lower spring and put the actuator in place. then put the adjuster on and hook the second shoe down with the lock spring. the manual has a decent explanation but once you do it a few times it will be like clockwork.
#3
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Look on John Pirtle's web site ---- BRAKES
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
Excellent procedure with pictures!
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
Excellent procedure with pictures!
#5
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Ryan, you can look at Dwayne's Brake info here - http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/88Brakes.htm
Hope it helps. It does not address the parking brake.
Hope it helps. It does not address the parking brake.
#6
Team Owner
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a few thing about this first clean all of the parts and grease the adjuster star so it moves easily, also make sure all of the linkages are free and greased including the little pivot pin on the end of the E brake fulcrum. Use some grease on the shoe to backing plate interface.
And last look at the back of the brake plate after you install the hold down springs. If they are not in the correct place then they will POP oout and then you will have ground up metal in the rear hats and possibly also damage the shoes ( If you look at the plates rear side, there are raised ribs that the springs hook onto, you will need a bright light to see this)
And last look at the back of the brake plate after you install the hold down springs. If they are not in the correct place then they will POP oout and then you will have ground up metal in the rear hats and possibly also damage the shoes ( If you look at the plates rear side, there are raised ribs that the springs hook onto, you will need a bright light to see this)
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#9
Nordschleife Master
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Shoes are now on, but i discovered something curious.
It appears to me based on the operation of the parking brake now, that the hand brake goes directly to the right side rear wheel. It then has another arm which pulls on the left side shoe.
So, instead of the parking brake pulling both cables from the handbrake, it seems that the hand brake operates the right side rear parking brake, which then operates the left side.
I noticed when the right side clearly moves more then the left side, but wasnt sure if i had installed the shoes incorrectly. Can someone confirm this?
If this is in fact how it functions this would give me a reason why the right side shoes were bare steel, and the left side were worn, but still had about half the material left on them.
Is this common knowledge? I would think the hand brake would pull 2 cables, but it seems it pulls only one. Again, can someone confirm this for me?
Thanks
It appears to me based on the operation of the parking brake now, that the hand brake goes directly to the right side rear wheel. It then has another arm which pulls on the left side shoe.
So, instead of the parking brake pulling both cables from the handbrake, it seems that the hand brake operates the right side rear parking brake, which then operates the left side.
I noticed when the right side clearly moves more then the left side, but wasnt sure if i had installed the shoes incorrectly. Can someone confirm this?
If this is in fact how it functions this would give me a reason why the right side shoes were bare steel, and the left side were worn, but still had about half the material left on them.
Is this common knowledge? I would think the hand brake would pull 2 cables, but it seems it pulls only one. Again, can someone confirm this for me?
Thanks
#10
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That sort of unbalanced action implies there is a friction issue somewhere - I cant visualize the thing right now, (and Pirtle doesnt come up for me now?), but if there is a cable involved in the side to side transfer, its probably dry and stiff, if not frozen or broken. In cable set ups, all cables need to be separated from every connection and independently freed up and lubricated, and all clevises checked for free movement, and lost motion due to wear, or you are wasting your time. Usually there is a lever somewhere with cables meeting it that is part of the L->R transfer - check this also for free movement.
Must get in and check mine sometime soon...
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k.
Must get in and check mine sometime soon...
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k.
#11
Team Owner
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RP you might need a new handle to shoe E brake cable.
the cable works like a set of side pull brakes on a 10 speed. as the cable pulls one side the housing pulls the other, the cable can sometimes rust inside, then one side of the cable will pull more than the other and not release the shoes on one side
the cable works like a set of side pull brakes on a 10 speed. as the cable pulls one side the housing pulls the other, the cable can sometimes rust inside, then one side of the cable will pull more than the other and not release the shoes on one side
#12
Nordschleife Master
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ok so my overly worded description is correct then lol
I dont think anything is rusted up honestly, i just noticed an extra lever on the right side which is not there on the left, so thats the aformentioned lever which actually does the pulling for the left side.
I dont think anything is rusted up honestly, i just noticed an extra lever on the right side which is not there on the left, so thats the aformentioned lever which actually does the pulling for the left side.