When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
unbelievable how complex choosing wheel/tires was for the car... damned, took me almost 2 days.
First the wheels must fit of course, second they must be available and in the right ET … Than we need winter tires and semi slicks... again, they must be available in both with the right wide/height Than we can only take 1 spare wheel in the car … so a front wheel "must fit "also at the rear ( ET's are so different , a rear wheel cannot in front ) Than we desire strong , light rally wheels….
all that puzzle ended in 285/35/18 all 4 , on 10" Braid rally rims.
I first wanted to stay 17" as my CCW wheels ( 11 and 13 " ) … but almost no tires choice , sure not in the desired 285 range. To keep the wheels a bit nice under Carl's fender extensions i need front ET 27 and rear ET -43 …
I first wanted to stay 17" as my CCW wheels ( 11 and 13 " ) … but almost no tires choice , sure not in the desired 285 range. To keep the wheels a bit nice under Carl's fender extensions i need front ET 27 and rear ET -43 …
in fact no @SwayBar , i want my wheels more out. Wider track.
So , if you mean ET60 for a 10" wheel ( ET's can change with wheel wide ) i'm running my front wheels 33 mm more outwards and rear 103 mm .
Car was made as a "copy" of Carl Fausett 's racer with the same CCW wheels…. i measure in front 4" "wheel" sticking out of the flange , rear 6.7"
If i would use a ET60 wheel in the rear , you almost wouldn't see that wheel…..
i keep the wheels the same at the outside , but i will be running 50 mm less rubber on the inside. ( 285 instead of 335 ) at the rear
front would be less difference , but still 33 mm.... i will be running 30 mm less rubber on the inside . ( 285 instead of the 315 here )
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 10-08-2019 at 04:04 AM.
got the belt tensioner parts , finished engine , ready for installation…. painted the front cross member and installed new bellhousing….
Just still to do the rear oil seal when the engine is in the crane , out of the stand and…. and mount new clutch kit....
Hope still this week...
working on the engine build i got pitty for my spare engine laying around in the shed…. so i got it inside and demounted all oem stuff which i will never use . Also filled it up with ATF/diesel to let it soak.
That "spare" engine i demounted ( 10 years ago ) myself and was good running , so worth saving.
@Ad0911 hope you can do something with the stuff !
Today i replaced the clutch release bearing …. perhaps overkill , but i had a new one on the shelf , the clutch kit on the engine was new ,10 years ago, but only driven a few miles .
So i keep the "almost" new one as a spare…
I read in manual to NOT grease the sleeve and fork as those bearings have plastic liners…. is this so important ? perhaps that plastic can swell due grease components ?
@Ad0911 hope you can do something with the stuff !
Today i replaced the clutch release bearing …. perhaps overkill , but i had a new one on the shelf , the clutch kit on the engine was new ,10 years ago, but only driven a few miles .
So i keep the "almost" new one as a spare…
I read in manual to NOT grease the sleeve and fork as those bearings have plastic liners…. is this so important ? perhaps that plastic can swell due grease components ?
Next week engine must be in the car !
Dear Belgiumbarry,
I too hope that these parts will work. The search for parts isn't over yet for my EFI project. I need to have the inlets of the heads widened to 41 mm and find the second fuel rail. I am cleaning up the parts but I have to wait for replating until I have the second fuel rail. I have a little hope that you may find it eventually.
i will keep a eye open Ad for that rail , but as predicted , i'm afraid… as it wasn't in THE box with all the other parts ... ok, i have many boxes …
now, ignition…
i tested the oem box against the modern equivalent i bought and was surprized : rotating the distributor with my drill i got this output for the coil :
oem gives 6.8 V , measured as DC , 6.3 V as AC ( reality is something in between i assume , not DC ,more a AC pulse triggering the coil )
Modern unit gives 12V DC , almost nothing AC
Strange … ( used testing batterie is at 12.7 V )
Curious to try both on a running engine... the thing i'm not sure of is if the modern module does correct dwell … if so, this is a 50 $ replacement for a 600 $ ? oem unit.....
were the oem unit has 2 "#16" outputs for coil and tacho , the modern has 1 "#16" , to be used for both .
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 10-20-2019 at 02:53 PM.
meanwhile engine is in the car and i can start connections….. also my wheels with winter tires arrived. Those are nice "BRAID" wheels, custom made ET , 10" x 18" , no nonsense rally wheels.
Tires are Pirelli Sottozero 285/35 . ( first rally we want to participate is mid December "Kempenrally" , and street legal winter tires are obligated)
i could borrow the Kemph tool from a friendly Belgian and tested it directly… i estimated tension to low on the new belt.
I'm surprized , once correct according the tool , that there is some "serious" tension on the belt.
have to renew the LSD... wheels are turning in the same direction but that's about it …. no torque needed. Lucky i have the set from 928MS from 2008 to change the 4 plates LSD on newer transaxles to the old style 8 plates LSD. Hope all go's well.... if this go into problems i can forget my deadline of 15 December rally...just ordered all needed gaskets. Fingers crossed.
10-07-2019, 01:53 PM
