When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
928sg , i suppose you mean the Corvette box conversion ? do Porsche 6 speed transaxles exist in the 928 ?
Thanks Ake, but i had read those already , searching here for ring&pinion … seems there was only "Houseman" who build the 3.09 years ago… and ( i'm afraid) still not good ratio for rally.
A 3.5 or even a 3.7 would be worth the $$ and work , we never go above 200 km/h , many rally cars go red line at 180 km/h. ( as my BMW )
I will see what it does , in the end we rally for fun , not a top 10
Most important will be if i can shift easy in 1ste for slow corners, 2de will be to low in rpm…. but should have a nice exit with full power up to 60/70 km/h.
With my BMW i always come down to 2de for corners that i cannot see clear , as a safety . There can be unexpected mud, gravel etc.... thrown on the road by cars before you.
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 08-14-2019 at 08:00 PM.
My self made dashboard... will have to clean up a bit the alu after all those years in storage...
and a wood sample of how i woud support the wing , now 110 cm wide instead of oem 140 cm... must let those pieces laser cut in alu.... with some radius on them.
for rally ( instead of the track design ) i need official tech inspection … so again lights with parking/dim/high … i do not feel for remounting the oem lights and the ( heavy) system... ( which i throwed away ) … so the idea of using fixed small tractor lights …. those will be the fastest tractor lights in Belgium
No problem in how good they are, just to pass inspection. For real lightning in rally we have extra ( not road legal ) spots.
To test everything before buying a ECU ignition ( the more , IF allowed in "historic" class) i removed the vac from the distributor and had the stator fixed with screws. It is a '82 car.
I see the mechanical advance weights and springs are different what explains the advance curve as to be in 2 stages ….. i think. Never seen that , all the former distributors i have worked on had identical setup , so giving lineair curve up to the stops. With choice of springs we could dial in how fast advance came in . If ECU ignition is not allowed i will see the need to change that , lineair curve and" all in " a bit earlier …
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 08-20-2019 at 05:08 AM.
Reason: grammar
haha Ake, he doesn't need a plow…. can do it with the wheels. So Sweden has crazy people too ?
Did take some measures this morning , and yes , that will work ....... i will remove the naca ducts ( not needed there for rally ) ,so i can put the lights more foreword and behind them a cover over the remaining opening with screws . That opening is just big enough to reach the nut for adjusting the lights.
Of course with a extra support to the chassis down under .
Paint all in white and i have a mini version of popped up 928 head lights.
Low temp thermostat …. i ordered one, Wahler 4064.75D , diameters are OK , but the closing disc is to small... i have here 2 thermostat housings ( water bridges) and there is a difference : one is a solid alu port , the other has a pressed in steel ring for a much "finer" close contact ...but is corroded. Thermostat would work with the steel ring insert but is "small" for use with the massive alu port bridge.
Don't know when "what" Porsche changed …. bridges can be swapped in the past years by PO...i would like to use the massive alu port , as this bridge is "good" …. the steel ring is corroded . I assume this is a later type as it has confined seals to the heads , the massive port one has "flat" seal surfaces…. can be wrong.
Anybody knows the part # ( Wahler ? ) of the big ( closing with temp ) disc thermostat ? or is my problem they give me another brand and so wrong alternative ?
I know Carl sell those ( not sure with big disc ?? ) but a bit "ridiculous" buying such a small part in the USA , made in Germany , a neighbour country for me.... and paying import taxes !
Hallo Carl , do you read threads... for help ???
Edit… stupid of me not looking for a build year stamp on them… i had it right , massive port is '82 , steel insert '84. OR... is the steel insert a repair ever made y a PO ????
10 years ago i must have loved rivets a lot…… so i made the window in the "Strosek copy" with lexan and a alu flange , all together with… rivets.
I didn't like it.... so i cut around a 15 mm , so the rivet holes are away. Now i can mount a slightly bigger lexan with rubber H profile , that will blend in more with the side windows.
Great , car will be accepted by the racing officials here in Belgium for rallies…. at least after some minor changes on the roll cage due "new" regulations .. Happy we can go for it... of course i need new seats, belts and fire stuff as all this expired in 2013.... as i assumed.
don't know if we get the last rally this year in december … still a lot of work to do … and i want it to be "good"... let's hope at least the engine is OK when test running....
new FIA approved seats and 6 point belts … to be installed later...
mock up for the air inlet oil cooler … a 964 item in the lights location. Don't need those lights , what are they in fact ? a fog light and a cruise/parking light ?? will copy it at the passenger side , can only help brake cooling over there… or i should install a second oil cooler ?? drilled a big hole in the alu fender , can make now a square duct cone from that fender piece to the oil cooler on 3 sides, oem chassis is already one. Must make a mud gard inside the fender to protect the cooler.
other idea , if not stupid ??? , was to use a second (passenger side) "oil" cooler for the crank case ventilation. Cooling hot air with oil & water creates a "vacuum" , so a sucking effect . That would help.
I could enter on top and bottom out with a air/oil&water separator, the air through a higher mounted filter , the oil/water in a catch tank.
Any thoughts ?
a visual example of my thought… made with random pieces laying around . The oil cooler is Dash 12 , so already a respectable diameter for air passage.
Just do not know if the cooling effect ( = create vacuum ) compensates the longer tubes.. with of course pressure drop. Now the inlet tube , in my setup , wouldn't be long !
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 09-01-2019 at 02:00 PM.
Gas law :PV = nRT…. so at equal pressure ,volume is lineair with temperature. What crank case air temp have we leaving the oil tower running the engine WOT ? 100 °C ? i assume this as with water at +90 ° and oil sure at lot more … can be 100...130 °C .
If the "oil cooler" can reduce this to 50 °C in winter here at 0°C air ( for easy calculation comparison ) , that means half the pressure ! so sure a "vacuum"…. suction effect to compensate at least the pressure drops due longer tubing and cooler itself.
PS we only drive rallies in colder seasons , not summer. To hot in the car
Sorry , i had to add that with the Weber carbs i don't have a engine vacuum connection any more.... as with the oem setup , yes i have a spider connection on the manifold ITB tubes for the vac brake booster. Could use this but afraid all the bad stuff would be inhaled by some cilinders ?
Last edited by belgiumbarry; 09-01-2019 at 03:20 PM.
if i want to place that "copy" cooler for engine vent at the passenger side , i probably loose the ignition module place or get it more inboard.
But isn't this better placed before the radiator for cooling ? Connections are only wires….. not hoses.
08-13-2019, 09:33 AM
so i made the window in the "Strosek copy" with lexan and a alu flange , all together with… rivets. 
