Petza914

Anyone have an old scrap square tooth timing belt they want to send me for the cost of postage. I want to cut it up. Looking to paint the non-running surfaces of my steel timing pulleys (cam, oil pump, crank, etc) and want to mask off the toothed portion with sections of an old belt during the process.

Also, anyone have scrap 3 bolt header flanges? I'm looking for 2 of them to make an adapter to go between the 85/86 round tube SS headers and my current stainless Y-Pipe and would prefer to not cut and weld either of those, unless someone actually has one of those adapter pieces around.

Thanks.

Petza914

Here we go.

Battery disconnected, hinge positions marked, and hood off. I'll work on disassembly and removal while the 4.7L is en route.

Sunex 8300 GB Engine stand is assembled (thanks for the recommendation in another thread Greg Brown), Harbor Freight Shop Hoist with pneumatic ram upgrade and balancer assembly is on hand to be put together. Waiting on some parts too.

Petza914

Pretty productive first few hours

• Crossbrace off
• Fuel lines disconnected at the intake legs and intske removed
• supercharger intertcooler deinstalled
• Radiator and most of the coolant drained

Chris Lockhart

Good progress Pete. Wish I could come help, but I'm swamped. I hope it goes fairly smooth.

SwayBar

Nice job so far.

Friendly tip - whenever you start to feel impatient while working on the car, put down the wrench and take a break.

skpyle

Never more truer words have been spoken...

M. Requin

Absolutely! Avoid the "last run" syndrome like the plague.

SeanR

Let us know what you think about that 8300GB stand. Been looking at one and after yesterday messing with this latest rebuilt engine I want one with a crank.

Kevin in Atlanta

I love mine! Mine came from Jegs. Made in China - everything is nowadays.

Petza914

I'm impressed with it. Amazon had the best price with free shipping so that's where mine came from. I'm going to get a drip pan (but not the Sunex one that melts from exposure to fluids) for it and cut a hole at the right position for the center brace to come through. I also replaced 3 of the bolts with clevis pins and tension pins with the safety ring so I can fold it down without requiring any tools. Having not mounted a motor on it yet, it looks very well made, the crank turns nice an free. After doing some research, I went with this one because of the longer standoff lengths. Most of the other ones I found that I liked (the yellow Jegs one) had short standoffs and that was one of the complaints from the people who bought those.

You can actually see it folded down under the boat trailer in the coolant draining photo.

I'll let you know how it works with the motor mounted as I'm going to remove and reseal the oil pan and install a stud kit, so I'll be cranking it upside down once on the stand.

Petza914

What's the consensus on whether I should upgrade to the Porken tensioner while I'm doing all of this on a 16v motor if I have a functioning regular tensioner?

soontobered84

How difficult will it be to access your tensioner to retension after 1500 miles? How difficult is it to access your tensioner for anything with the extra apparatus you have installed at the front of your engine?

Petza914

Quite difficult.

Pulling the airbox is easy, but the supercharger, not so much.

With the Porken Tensioner, is it self-adjusting like a normal serpentine belt tensioner, so no break in or periodic adjustments, whereas the OEM one requires manual adjustment?

If so, there's my answer. Thanks and let me know.

soontobered84

Self adjusts like a normal serpentine belt tensioner.
Somehow I thought you might lean that way if you needed to remove the supercharger to access the tensioner.

BC

I am sending tensioners Pete, but I was going to say I would strongly recommend the Ken's tensioner in this case.