How to video on changing valve springs 32V
03-09-2018, 01:37 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
How to video on changing valve springs 32V
Put together this short video as im changing the valve springs on TerryGTs 91 GT.
I will be doing another video on setting the camshaft chains shortly as well.
03-09-2018, 04:19 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
An easier and more fool proof ( and heaven forbid your valves are leaking) way of making sure you don't drop a valve is to rotate the engine to the TDC of each individual cylinder as you work on it.
Otherwise this is fantastic info and it makes it very easy to follow. Good work
Otherwise this is fantastic info and it makes it very easy to follow. Good work
03-09-2018, 11:09 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Nice vid- you make it look so easy. I think I would be doing bricks should the air compressor fail or there was a power cut. I presume that for each cylinder you do in fact set it at TDC on the firing stroke to take the cam load off the valves.
Another technique I read about was to feed some rope into the cylinder via the plug hole so that the piston compresses the rope to hold the valves in place although how one decides how much rope is needed was not mentioned!
Another technique I read about was to feed some rope into the cylinder via the plug hole so that the piston compresses the rope to hold the valves in place although how one decides how much rope is needed was not mentioned!
03-09-2018, 11:46 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Fred the Cams are removed, so no Cam Load 
I think, one would set the crank at 45 TDC, then remove all four cams, using a long rod in the plug hole (for the valve set you are working on), to determine piston TDC for that cyl by turning the crank.
Then add compressed air and proceed as shown.
When done place crank back to 45 TDC and reinstall the cams, adjusting the belt and cams using the 45 TDC mark, at least that is the way I'd do it.
Dave
I think, one would set the crank at 45 TDC, then remove all four cams, using a long rod in the plug hole (for the valve set you are working on), to determine piston TDC for that cyl by turning the crank.
Then add compressed air and proceed as shown.
When done place crank back to 45 TDC and reinstall the cams, adjusting the belt and cams using the 45 TDC mark, at least that is the way I'd do it.
Dave
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03-09-2018, 12:20 PM
#9
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Good video and a nice modification to the factory too. I've shoved a rubber jumping rope down the cylinder and brought the piston up to compress it before doing the spring replacement. Was afraid that if something happens to the air supply the valve would drop into the cylinder.
03-09-2018, 12:29 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
I was out in the sun today- durrgh- how stupid! . Must have been thinking of when I did the leakdown test.
I was impressed by how easy Colin made it all look. I know it is possible to do this but have never seen it done in real time as it were. Positioning the crank at TDC on the cylinder being worked on would seem to make good sense/added security albeit I have no clue as to whether Colin sets each cylinder in turn to such position. I guess it all boils down as to what one is comfortable doing.
I was impressed by how easy Colin made it all look. I know it is possible to do this but have never seen it done in real time as it were. Positioning the crank at TDC on the cylinder being worked on would seem to make good sense/added security albeit I have no clue as to whether Colin sets each cylinder in turn to such position. I guess it all boils down as to what one is comfortable doing.
03-09-2018, 04:25 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Nicely done!
03-09-2018, 04:32 PM
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Hey Guys, the crank is locked at 45 deg.
The valves cannot fall down and into the cylinder. The valves stem seals really prevent this.
And at 45deg it may slide down a little but not enough.
If I have to take the air off I put a strong neodymium magnet on the end of the valve stem and a screwdriver on it to hold it up.
As to making it look easy. Once you’ve done a few dozen it is easy! ������
I will do another video following this which shows the timing of the cam chains. Hopefully this helps a few more people.
The valves cannot fall down and into the cylinder. The valves stem seals really prevent this.
And at 45deg it may slide down a little but not enough.
If I have to take the air off I put a strong neodymium magnet on the end of the valve stem and a screwdriver on it to hold it up.
As to making it look easy. Once you’ve done a few dozen it is easy! ������
I will do another video following this which shows the timing of the cam chains. Hopefully this helps a few more people.
05-08-2018, 06:53 AM
#14
Pro
I did this job recently before the video fitting a set of the tri flow cams.
The video is a good help for anyone tackling the job for the first time.
I would add that getting the correct tool for compressing the springs is key if you are going to leave the manifold on.
I did the job with a laser tool without the manifold on and struggled a little with clearances. I would strongly recommend using the tool Colin uses, makes life a little easier for a job that is tricky to begin with.
The video is a good help for anyone tackling the job for the first time.
I would add that getting the correct tool for compressing the springs is key if you are going to leave the manifold on.
I did the job with a laser tool without the manifold on and struggled a little with clearances. I would strongly recommend using the tool Colin uses, makes life a little easier for a job that is tricky to begin with.