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I know huh! funny how the "logic" seems to always find the solution here! this is a great example. it was the sensor, not a wiring issue and putting a loose sensor on the wiring, was the first" logical" test!
Thanks Well, i got the spring i the right direction, but i dont remember any crush washer on the barrel insert.. oh boy... im hoping that it was stuck on the block, because i dont see it o my picture either. doesnt seem to be leaking, so i might be ok..
thanks again!
Mk
Originally Posted by skpyle
Mark, for what it is worth, here is the orientation of the springs and plunger that came out of my 1986.5:
Engine block to the left, oil pressure sensor to the right, if that makes sense.
EDIT : NEVERMIND! FOUND IT. the small wire on the pressure sensor was a little frayed.. still connected but when wiggling it, the gauge went from 5bar to 0.........soldered it all up and put the covers back on. fixed... thanks!
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ok folks, ITS HAPPENING AGAIN! I just saw that the oil pressure gauge is reading full scale at ignition start and it clicks to "0" as soon as the car is turned off. The red light comes on before car is started and slowly goes dim and off as it is started. . Now could it be a problem in the 14 pin connector by the starting jumper post? dont know what happened, but i have a hard time believing that a oil pressure sensor can go bad in a few months.
I checked the 14 pin connector by the jumper post, all terminations look fine. wiggled some wires down at the fuse panel at the 10 pin connectors and nothing changes.. it just pegs to 5+ bar instantly when the ignition is turned on. maybe tap on the sensor? could it be the small particulate, that maybe made the plunger stick? (from the cam cover mess i made where a little dirt got in the engine)
you guys were great last time........lets see who might get this one right this time
thanks!!!
Mark
Last edited by mark kibort; 09-01-2018 at 04:44 AM.
It's likely that the problem is still/again the wiring between the 14-pin and the sender, or the connection at the sender end. Spray the 14-pin with Deoxit and engage/disengage it a few times to wipe the pins and sockets. If that doesn't do it, go back to the repair you did last time (the last thing you worked on...) and visit that wire and connection.
It's likely that the problem is still/again the wiring between the 14-pin and the sender, or the connection at the sender end. Spray the 14-pin with Deoxit and engage/disengage it a few times to wipe the pins and sockets. If that doesn't do it, go back to the repair you did last time (the last thing you worked on...) and visit that wire and connection.
RE-UPDATE.......still have a problem!! (but its not the wiring)
I just went for a drive and it went full scale on the oil pressure guage...................so, back under the car again . wiggling the suspect wire, made the gauge fall to 0, but back up to 5bar (car not even running, ign on)
so i added some solder , to make sure i didnt have a cold weld, and no change. pulled back some of the insulation and made a clamped jumper to the terminals and NO change!!! so, what, i have a bad sensor. i put some finger pressure on the terminal.......and it drops to "0" again.... release,.......back to 5 bar.. ITS THE SENSOR!!! UGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG so, as a last ditch effort , i tighten up the connetions and (gauge still reading 5 bar full scale) and then i put presure on the terminals. either one. and it goes to 0..........now, i take vice grip and bend ever so slightly the termal towward the othe one . the entire sensor at the bottom becomes deformed slightly........WALA, fixed. solid, goes right to 0 and taping and moving things around, i cant break the connection now....... bad sensor! has anyone seen a new one, only a month old do this? how are the connections made at the terminals inside the sensor? wish i kept the old one now to dissect.
How much did the replacement sender cost? Did it have any Chinese writing on it?
I purchased a $20 job off ebay in the States- quality looks fine, figured I would test the concept after my issues with replacing the three pin sender failed to work. My thinking was if it worked and then failed I would purchase the genuine two pin item- so far it has worked perfectly [2 years]. Really it is a crap shoot with these things.. I dare say the odd unit here or there brand new in a Porsche box has been known to fail before today.
How much did the replacement sender cost? Did it have any Chinese writing on it?
I purchased a $20 job off ebay in the States- quality looks fine, figured I would test the concept after my issues with replacing the three pin sender failed to work. My thinking was if it worked and then failed I would purchase the genuine two pin item- so far it has worked perfectly [2 years]. Really it is a crap shoot with these things.. I dare say the odd unit here or there brand new in a Porsche box has been known to fail before today.
How much did the replacement sender cost? Did it have any Chinese writing on it?
I purchased a $20 job off ebay in the States- quality looks fine, figured I would test the concept after my issues with replacing the three pin sender failed to work. My thinking was if it worked and then failed I would purchase the genuine two pin item- so far it has worked perfectly [2 years]. Really it is a crap shoot with these things.. I dare say the odd unit here or there brand new in a Porsche box has been known to fail before today.
crappy "UROparts". shiny on the outside, crap on the inside.
Did you buy "crappy UROparts" on purpose? You are probably the first person to report a probelm with "crappy UROparts". Too bad others before you haven't posted anything about their result using "crappy UROparts". You could have learned from their experiences.
Did you buy "crappy UROparts" on purpose? You are probably the first person to report a probelm with "crappy UROparts". Too bad others before you haven't posted anything about their result using "crappy UROparts". You could have learned from their experiences.
I've had zero luck with those cheap oil pressure sensors and refuse to install them. I'm sure that others have had good results with them but it's not worth the chance on my end.
Did you buy "crappy UROparts" on purpose? You are probably the first person to report a probelm with "crappy UROparts". Too bad others before you haven't posted anything about their result using "crappy UROparts". You could have learned from their experiences.
I had NO idea there was a such a thing as a crappy part , UROparts. when i posted this, no one chimed in and said, "dont use crapy uroparts". i dont think it was that cheap, but maybe it was compared to porsche.
Originally Posted by SeanR
I've had zero luck with those cheap oil pressure sensors and refuse to install them. I'm sure that others have had good results with them but it's not worth the chance on my end.
well, i continue your validation that the cheap parts are not worth it. i didnt do it to save money, just didnt know there were versions that wouldnt work. clearly , i was wrong here.
SeanR and Greg regularly share some casual guidance on the dangers of using knock-off parts. I'm sure Stan and the others who hold tools to keep food on the table will agree too. A part that fails, even if it's a customer-supplied part, offers a measure of liability. That "liability" might be the costs of rework/replacement of only the part if they are lucky. But the "sender reads full-scale but there's this knocking noise now" situation can quickly become a massive liability for a replacement engine, using this example. I'm amazed that DIY owners are willing to assume that liability themselves when choosing the cheap easy and convenient options for otherwise critical pieces on their cars. This is magnified nX times when the engine is more valuable, and the "normal" operating conditions are much closer to design limits.
At this point in the world-marketing and easy-knock-off world we now live in, there's the next concern about cheap parts masquerading as good parts. As much as I love finding a bargain, I also trust our dedicated vendors to source the correct bits. Sometimes it's stupid stuff like extra-durable fuse assortments, with fuses that survive at the expense of the wiring they are intended to protect. Sometimes it's a water pump that looks just like a factory or brand-name pump. Or an ignition switch or a critical switch or sender or a relay or a [name your part]. It's Russian Roulette really. I hate getting stranded by Stupid Stuff, and I hate having failures from making stupid choices on purpose. To keep the car reliable enough to be in "jump in and drive anywhere" condition, why add known-stupid variables on purpose? I know there are owners who actually pride themselves on how they seem to be able to keep their cars alive on substitute bits, or in spite of avoided maintenance work. Good on you! Many "it ran when until I parked it" folks have driven that road ahead of you.
04-01-2018, 12:47 PM
