Keyless Entry System
#16
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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It depends entirely on the year of your car - there are some rudimentary instructions in the installation manual - follow the links - covers basics for most years..
There are also very many previous articles on various KE installs here on rennlist - use search.
Alan
There are also very many previous articles on various KE installs here on rennlist - use search.
Alan
#18
Burning Brakes
My $10 setup arrived today. I have an old car that I installed an aftermarket door lock kit in about 25 years ago. It uses a negative trigger and this kit integrated beautifully with it. Took about 20 minutes to install and the range is at least a few hundred feet from what I've tried.
It also supports positive trigger, pos/neg trigger and pneumatic.
It does have other output options such as trunk release, light flash and horn chirp.
I was going to order one for my '82 928 but got to thinking about the factory alarm system. Has anyone done a KE so that it also arms and disarms the factory alarm as if you're using the black key? Even if you arm with the black key and want to use the remote to unlock for convenience, that'll still set the alarm off as you as you open the door.
It also supports positive trigger, pos/neg trigger and pneumatic.
It does have other output options such as trunk release, light flash and horn chirp.
I was going to order one for my '82 928 but got to thinking about the factory alarm system. Has anyone done a KE so that it also arms and disarms the factory alarm as if you're using the black key? Even if you arm with the black key and want to use the remote to unlock for convenience, that'll still set the alarm off as you as you open the door.
#19
Instructor
Until you have one installed - you don't realize how nice it is - I'd definitely recommend the hatch release feature also (as long as you already have a functioning electric remote release*).
It does usually need some extra work to make the hatch work (varies depending on KE model). It sounds from the last reply that there may in fact be a second channel on the system the OP posted that could be used for this.
I have installed various systems with fobs, with key head integrated fobs and with 'switchblade' (VW like) style key remotes on my GTS. They all need extra work - so a key fob system like this is the easiest to do. It can be a complete piggy back so fairly easy to install/remove and no need to swap out an alarm - can work seamlessly with the stock (or aftermarket) alarm system e.g: Unlock/Disarm, Lock/Arm and Hatch Open/Disarm (or Suspend). Depending on the system can add panic alert, horn chirp confirmation and/or turn signal flash confirmation. Personally I find the horn confirmation (even the alarm horn) to be far too annoying. You don't usually need any dome light control because unlocking/locking usually gets you that functionality anyway.
* I actually recommend deleting the porsche hatch motor** and replacing it with the faster, simpler, quieter & more reliable (non parking) VW versions - I have a write up for it here on Rennlist. The Porsche units always fail in the end - I got tired of resurrecting mine and just dumped it. The VW unit works quickly every time and is far far cheaper than replacing the stock unit. Replacing it does need some fabrications skills.
**it is important that the hatch release works correctly mechanically before you start the swap as this mod fixes the motor related issues (non-running, over-running, continuous running, incorrect parking). It does not fix other failures to release the latch due to e.g. alignment/wear/damage issues.
Alan
It does usually need some extra work to make the hatch work (varies depending on KE model). It sounds from the last reply that there may in fact be a second channel on the system the OP posted that could be used for this.
I have installed various systems with fobs, with key head integrated fobs and with 'switchblade' (VW like) style key remotes on my GTS. They all need extra work - so a key fob system like this is the easiest to do. It can be a complete piggy back so fairly easy to install/remove and no need to swap out an alarm - can work seamlessly with the stock (or aftermarket) alarm system e.g: Unlock/Disarm, Lock/Arm and Hatch Open/Disarm (or Suspend). Depending on the system can add panic alert, horn chirp confirmation and/or turn signal flash confirmation. Personally I find the horn confirmation (even the alarm horn) to be far too annoying. You don't usually need any dome light control because unlocking/locking usually gets you that functionality anyway.
* I actually recommend deleting the porsche hatch motor** and replacing it with the faster, simpler, quieter & more reliable (non parking) VW versions - I have a write up for it here on Rennlist. The Porsche units always fail in the end - I got tired of resurrecting mine and just dumped it. The VW unit works quickly every time and is far far cheaper than replacing the stock unit. Replacing it does need some fabrications skills.
**it is important that the hatch release works correctly mechanically before you start the swap as this mod fixes the motor related issues (non-running, over-running, continuous running, incorrect parking). It does not fix other failures to release the latch due to e.g. alignment/wear/damage issues.
Alan
Can you provide the link to the rear Harry motor replacement thread? I skimmed you numerous posts and did a search and can't seem to find it. Thanks.
D
D
#21
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
My $10 setup arrived today. I have an old car that I installed an aftermarket door lock kit in about 25 years ago. It uses a negative trigger and this kit integrated beautifully with it. Took about 20 minutes to install and the range is at least a few hundred feet from what I've tried.
It also supports positive trigger, pos/neg trigger and pneumatic.
It does have other output options such as trunk release, light flash and horn chirp.
I was going to order one for my '82 928 but got to thinking about the factory alarm system. Has anyone done a KE so that it also arms and disarms the factory alarm as if you're using the black key? Even if you arm with the black key and want to use the remote to unlock for convenience, that'll still set the alarm off as you as you open the door.
It also supports positive trigger, pos/neg trigger and pneumatic.
It does have other output options such as trunk release, light flash and horn chirp.
I was going to order one for my '82 928 but got to thinking about the factory alarm system. Has anyone done a KE so that it also arms and disarms the factory alarm as if you're using the black key? Even if you arm with the black key and want to use the remote to unlock for convenience, that'll still set the alarm off as you as you open the door.
Alan
#22
Burning Brakes
I also used search and read through 5 pages of your 2.0 thread and found nothing specific for older models.
There's also a thread dating back to '04 which mentions the remote will not arm/disarm the alarm.
I've read multiple other threads, all catering to the 90 to 95 models.
The only link to the T-Lock makes no mention as to whether the factory alarm is armed/disarmed for 80-83.
If there is something specific for the older cars, I'm not finding it.
#23
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The alarms evolved over the years but they all basically work in a similar way - the 91 & up integrates the lock module so is easiest, 86-90 have a separate central lock module while earlier cars just have 2 more basic separate central locking lock motors in the doors.
This is true for all years with central locks and a factory alarm. The hatch part obviously can apply only to cars equipped with remote hatch release.
Generally for all but the 91 up you need to do the same thing - connect the KE so it both locks/arms or unlocks/disarms. You can do this using a pair of small diodes for each KE output (1 to the locks & 1 to the alarm) and maintain system independence otherwise.
For an '82 (or '85 car) you need to connect directly at the alarm module on the brown/red (lock) wire and the brown/green(unlock) wire - both negative trigger. For the locks connect to either driver or passenger motor (door loom) on the Yellow (lock) and Green/Black (unlock) wires - both negative trigger. These wires between the door locks also connect through the car. Examples for this with a lock module are shown in diagrams in previous posts (dual diode feeds - with diode cathodes to the KE pin).
BTW in checking (due to your question) - the install instructions in the T-Lock documents generally only covers the lock/unlock function - not the arm/disarm functions. These can be added on any year (with a stock alarm) in much the same way as identified here. Only the instructions for '91 & up will get you lock and alarm features combined without more work. I think you should always do both - or it's a very incomplete feature. Note the instructions listed for '90 & up should actually be only for '91 and up (90 being like '89). Hatch add-on is similar for all years and has been documented in other threads.
Alan
It can be a complete piggy back so fairly easy to install/remove and no need to swap out an alarm - can work seamlessly with the stock (or aftermarket) alarm system e.g: Unlock/Disarm, Lock/Arm and Hatch Open/Disarm (or Suspend). Depending on the system can add panic alert, horn chirp confirmation and/or turn signal flash confirmation
Generally for all but the 91 up you need to do the same thing - connect the KE so it both locks/arms or unlocks/disarms. You can do this using a pair of small diodes for each KE output (1 to the locks & 1 to the alarm) and maintain system independence otherwise.
For an '82 (or '85 car) you need to connect directly at the alarm module on the brown/red (lock) wire and the brown/green(unlock) wire - both negative trigger. For the locks connect to either driver or passenger motor (door loom) on the Yellow (lock) and Green/Black (unlock) wires - both negative trigger. These wires between the door locks also connect through the car. Examples for this with a lock module are shown in diagrams in previous posts (dual diode feeds - with diode cathodes to the KE pin).
BTW in checking (due to your question) - the install instructions in the T-Lock documents generally only covers the lock/unlock function - not the arm/disarm functions. These can be added on any year (with a stock alarm) in much the same way as identified here. Only the instructions for '91 & up will get you lock and alarm features combined without more work. I think you should always do both - or it's a very incomplete feature. Note the instructions listed for '90 & up should actually be only for '91 and up (90 being like '89). Hatch add-on is similar for all years and has been documented in other threads.
Alan
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just received my unit this past week. I hope to have it installed in the very near future.
(Panera card simply for reference.)
(Panera card simply for reference.)
#26
I contacted Tore (Bergville FX) as I have an 86.5 and wasn't sure which set of instructions applied to my car. Didn't want to be referred to by the next owner as "the PO who fubared the wiring".
The 928 T-LOCK installation manual is as complete as possible, but there are several variants of the wiring scheme for this car, depending on model year and country specifications. Thank you for pointing out the incorrect/missing reference in the manual, I'll update this ASAP. Does your car have the slow-moving rotating lock motors in the doors, or the fast type which just smacks up and down? If you have the fast type, you have the same system as the 944/964, where the lock control unit is placed in the centre console. If you have the slow-moving type, you need to connect the T-LOCK in the foot well, as described for the 80-83 models.There may be differences in wiring colours, you then have to rely on the pin numbers on the control unit.
Any help or suggestions are always appreciated.
Thank you
The 928 T-LOCK installation manual is as complete as possible, but there are several variants of the wiring scheme for this car, depending on model year and country specifications. Thank you for pointing out the incorrect/missing reference in the manual, I'll update this ASAP. Does your car have the slow-moving rotating lock motors in the doors, or the fast type which just smacks up and down? If you have the fast type, you have the same system as the 944/964, where the lock control unit is placed in the centre console. If you have the slow-moving type, you need to connect the T-LOCK in the foot well, as described for the 80-83 models.There may be differences in wiring colours, you then have to rely on the pin numbers on the control unit.
Any help or suggestions are always appreciated.
Thank you