clutch pedal down
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
clutch pedal down
Good evening everyone,
Sam from Jersey with the 83 928 manual.
as of 2 weeks ago, My clutch pedal goes half way down without resistance, free travel, then the last or quarter travel distance it engages (feel resistance). then the pedal stays down all the way. I have to bring it back with my foot or hand.
The car will not go in any gear while running, it will grind on all gears, and i dont want to break anything. I have to turn the car off, put it in gear and start the car to move it around the driveway. And thats the only way i have been able to move the car around the driveway...
Ive done a lot of searches and some reading here and in other forums.
I dont have any oil leaks in the driver foot well, and the brake fluid reservoir is still at normal level and has not dropped.
It sounds like its the clutch slave cylinder, which i already purchased one. And i have researched and read about bench bleeding the cylinder before installing it, and read/ watched the video where a BMW guy used an oil can to pump the fluid backwards and up into the brake fluid reservoir to chase away any air bubbles.
So my question is: am i on the right track? or do i need to look any other parts while at it, such as the fork, or other things i read here and there.
I was also advised when all this happened, by Mr. Merlin, to purchase the blue flexible line and the upper master cylinder and change all at the same time, but thats after i had bought and received my slave cylinder... Stan also mentioned that i could have some oil from the head dripping onto the clutch, which explains the shudder/shaking as i take my foot off the clutch on first gear...(thats another problem)
So i plan on bundling up and going out to work on the car in my driveway, in the next week or two, unless i need to check something else. Freezing/snow temperatures...
Let me know what you all think.
Hope everyone is well, and Merry Xmas.
thank you,
Sam
Sam from Jersey with the 83 928 manual.
as of 2 weeks ago, My clutch pedal goes half way down without resistance, free travel, then the last or quarter travel distance it engages (feel resistance). then the pedal stays down all the way. I have to bring it back with my foot or hand.
The car will not go in any gear while running, it will grind on all gears, and i dont want to break anything. I have to turn the car off, put it in gear and start the car to move it around the driveway. And thats the only way i have been able to move the car around the driveway...
Ive done a lot of searches and some reading here and in other forums.
I dont have any oil leaks in the driver foot well, and the brake fluid reservoir is still at normal level and has not dropped.
It sounds like its the clutch slave cylinder, which i already purchased one. And i have researched and read about bench bleeding the cylinder before installing it, and read/ watched the video where a BMW guy used an oil can to pump the fluid backwards and up into the brake fluid reservoir to chase away any air bubbles.
So my question is: am i on the right track? or do i need to look any other parts while at it, such as the fork, or other things i read here and there.
I was also advised when all this happened, by Mr. Merlin, to purchase the blue flexible line and the upper master cylinder and change all at the same time, but thats after i had bought and received my slave cylinder... Stan also mentioned that i could have some oil from the head dripping onto the clutch, which explains the shudder/shaking as i take my foot off the clutch on first gear...(thats another problem)
So i plan on bundling up and going out to work on the car in my driveway, in the next week or two, unless i need to check something else. Freezing/snow temperatures...
Let me know what you all think.
Hope everyone is well, and Merry Xmas.
thank you,
Sam
#2
Rennlist Member
You are on the right track, however the fluid for the brakes is the same and a blue hose feeds the clutch slave, so you should be bleeding the entire system.
I've never had to Bench Bleed one, guessing I've been lucky
What I would suggest is you bleed the brakes then the clutch slave, if the slave has air in it (sounds like it does) then push the rod all the way into it to push out the air.
This may need to be done a few times, DO NOT use the Clutch peddle unless you reattach the slave to the bell housing, else you will have a BIG mess to clean up and parts to find
Several great write up's here search is your friend.
Just noticed you are from Cherry Hill, I lived in Cinnaminson for many years, old stomp-in grounds
Dave K
I've never had to Bench Bleed one, guessing I've been lucky
What I would suggest is you bleed the brakes then the clutch slave, if the slave has air in it (sounds like it does) then push the rod all the way into it to push out the air.
This may need to be done a few times, DO NOT use the Clutch peddle unless you reattach the slave to the bell housing, else you will have a BIG mess to clean up and parts to find
Several great write up's here search is your friend.
Just noticed you are from Cherry Hill, I lived in Cinnaminson for many years, old stomp-in grounds
Dave K
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
thank you Dave. Cinnaminson is a nice town.
I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. So im guessing the whole system will drain once i disconnect the slave cylinder fluid line, right?
Then I install the cylinder and bleed the whole system.
Must be cold up your way!
thanks,
Sam
I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. So im guessing the whole system will drain once i disconnect the slave cylinder fluid line, right?
Then I install the cylinder and bleed the whole system.
Must be cold up your way!
thanks,
Sam
#4
Team Owner
Sam put a piece of saran wrap over the tank inlet then put the cap on this will slow the rate of leak.
I also suggest to get a Greg Brown flex hose to replace the hard line over the starter
I also suggest to get a Greg Brown flex hose to replace the hard line over the starter