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Thanks, this car was a real mess when she came to me.
Unfortunately even with the flanges loose I can not mount the resonators. Looks like this x-pipe will need the driver flange machined, and likely a double gasket on the other side if it won't seal with a single gasket, or just thicker to compensate for the flange being off once I machine the driver side.
I had one that we had to cut up and reweld to make fit with the Motorsports SLC exhaust. Only one out of dozens so I didn't complain too much. Yours seems a bit further off than any I'd seen before. That sure looks like a Lomas pipe, where did you source it?
I had one that we had to cut up and reweld to make fit with the Motorsports SLC exhaust. Only one out of dozens so I didn't complain too much. Yours seems a bit further off than any I'd seen before. That sure looks like a Lomas pipe, where did you source it?
From Roger. Will give him a ring on Monday.
Everything else is lined up perfectly on the car. No amount of wiggling is going to get this straight. I was more worried about the flanges matching up. But it bolts up perfectly.
I had one that needed a spot weld as one of the flanges had a pinhole leak.
These pipes are handmade so some variances in MFG can be expected,
they do have an assembly fixture for fabrication.
my X pipe is also coated like yours,
it still looks like new after a few times at being installed on my car.
after the smog test the X goes on.
Only issue i found on using the pipes without the cats is that,
the paint on the rear PU will take on a tan finish from the exhaust gas deposits.
keep it waxed and simple green to pre wash works good.
... perhaps I can loosen the mounting brackets and shift the engine over slightly?
Remember that the engine, torque tube, and tranaxle are a rigid assembly. If you could somehow move the engine a bit over, you'd be twisting the transaxle mounts.
Remember that the engine, torque tube, and tranaxle are a rigid assembly. If you could somehow move the engine a bit over, you'd be twisting the transaxle mounts.
Ya I know that was a silly thought. LOL
The drive train can move a little on the mount brackets, but only by a C hair.
It would be good practice to pressure test every welded exhaust component and check it for fitment by bolting it onto a fixture before it leaves to the customer. Noticed that John’s pretty **** about those practices.
I learned that lesson the hard way too. Always test fit before sending off for coating. Coating for my headers was three times cost of part.
Except this car was in pieces with engine out when I received the x-pipe, or yes I would have done a test fit. But yes, next time it's a test fit first. The ceramic coating is so nice, had it coated on the inside too. Doh!
I may see if I can get a little spacer plate made for one side and do some test fitting. Ideally I would like to solve this vs getting another pipe or cutting it. I'm so close to finally starting this car, hoping the owner will get the best Christmas present ever.
Can you just bend it a little bit to adjust it? That is, get four wooden poles from Home Depot that snuggly fit inside the pipes. Then get a friend to bend the pipe sections a little to adjust the fit. How deep you insert the poles determines where it bends, so you can avoid cracking the welds — maybe. Is this ideal? No, but I’ve successfully adjusted pipes with a rod or pole inside them.
By the way, when the exhaust gets really hot for a while, I don’t think that coating on the inside is long for this life. Unless it was plasma sprayed with some sort of special rotating tool. What are the specs on that coating?
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X-pipe off centre
