Help - I built a 4x4
#16
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Greg, You mind expanding upon that thought...? I've heard there's a few bolts that we're not supposed to torque until the car is on the ground and settled. Can't for the life of me figure out which ones and I'm sure my front end is not where it needs to be... Any assistance you may provide us novices would be GREATLY appreciated!
BTW, crack that whip on the young whipper-snapper you got working for you and let Jake know I said "Hello Youngin'... hope you're doing well"
Thanks,
Joel
BTW, crack that whip on the young whipper-snapper you got working for you and let Jake know I said "Hello Youngin'... hope you're doing well"
Thanks,
Joel
2. Lower shock mounting bolt (which is also upper sway bar link attachment) left loose enough so that the metal insert inside the bottom rubber in the shock can easily pivot....along with the upper sway bar link.
3. Lower sway bar link to sway bar bolt.
4. Upper control arm outer nuts.
Never switch lower A-arms from side to side. Never replace only one of the lower control arms. The front bushing is vulcanized to both the inner and outer pieces of aluminum. Because this is a "hard" attachment, that piece of rubber becomes a part of the spring rate of the car!
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#17
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
This is not unique to the 928, every car ever made with rubber bushings this applies. Control arms, sway bars etc... Any suspension piece held in place by rubber (versus a solid type heim joint which is almost never found in production cars).
The idea is rubber bushings should be torqued at the "neutral" location. Some cars it's impossible to do this once dropped so you have to "best guess" and hold up the pieces while torqing the fastener.
#18
Banned
+1
This is not unique to the 928, every car ever made with rubber bushings this applies. Control arms, sway bars etc... Any suspension piece held in place by rubber (versus a solid type heim joint which is almost never found in production cars).
The idea is rubber bushings should be torqued at the "neutral" location. Some cars it's impossible to do this once dropped so you have to "best guess" and hold up the pieces while torqing the fastener.
This is not unique to the 928, every car ever made with rubber bushings this applies. Control arms, sway bars etc... Any suspension piece held in place by rubber (versus a solid type heim joint which is almost never found in production cars).
The idea is rubber bushings should be torqued at the "neutral" location. Some cars it's impossible to do this once dropped so you have to "best guess" and hold up the pieces while torqing the fastener.
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thanks guys... will check / re-torque with the weight on the car. Learn something new every day