My 1st Super Car 928S
#16
Besides the mouse house, it looks pretty clean in the CE panel area.
I'm the same way when doing multiple repairs under the hood, do one...start it up, do another...start it up. That way you can track down an issue quickier, if one should appear.
Keep up the good work.
Brian.
I'm the same way when doing multiple repairs under the hood, do one...start it up, do another...start it up. That way you can track down an issue quickier, if one should appear.
Keep up the good work.
Brian.
#17
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Tested all the ignition and fuel pump relays last night. Interesting that they are all the generic multi-purpose relay. Anyway, the fuel pump is just making a thunk when I jump the relay socket. Odd, because it's a recent replacement part. I'll confirm 12V and clean the ground. I looked at the PET and apparently there's either an internal pump in the tank or a filter but no indication of when that changed. The same appears to apply to the accumulator. If I can get by without the internal pump, I'd much prefer that. That part is super expensive. I had to replace one on my 931.
#18
If the pump is just making a clunking sound when you jumper the relay then the pump is jammed up. You can try and reverse the polarity on the pump to free it up but it's just going to get stuck again. Empty the tank and pull the internal mechanism (strainer or pump) and check those out.
#19
Nordschleife Master
One thing:
45 degrees does not close all the valves as you seem to think.
It gets all the pistons below TDC.
You cannot rotate the crank with the belt off.
You can rotate the cams if the crank is at 45 degrees.
45 degrees does not close all the valves as you seem to think.
It gets all the pistons below TDC.
You cannot rotate the crank with the belt off.
You can rotate the cams if the crank is at 45 degrees.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Welcome to the deep end of the shark tank! You'll have a lot of fun figuring stuff out and getting that ole girl to run... It can be very frustrating, yet rewarding all at the same time... especially with a car that was practically rocket science when it was built. The guys on here are the best when it comes to 928 lore... just don't let them anywhere close to your wench... they'll try to steal her
#21
You can call me Otis
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Congrats on the 1st Super car!, looks a lot like mine, and ...I admit, I just scanned through the posts like Glenl does, but seems like a nice catch.
it may take 3X purchace price to make a dependable DD, like mine, but I think you got a good start.
it may take 3X purchace price to make a dependable DD, like mine, but I think you got a good start.
#23
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If the pump is just making a clunking sound when you jumper the relay then the pump is jammed up. You can try and reverse the polarity on the pump to free it up but it's just going to get stuck again. Empty the tank and pull the internal mechanism (strainer or pump) and check those out.
Good info Joe. I'm still waiting on parts and everything is lined up nicely. I didn't think you'd want to spin crank or camshaft without the belt on.
#24
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I never tell my wife about any of the special tools I buy to maintain these cars, and I have a detached shop I keep all my wenches in.
#25
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Belt madness.
After receiving the ordered parts, I started in on the water pump replacement. Nothing unusual there and the pump that came off was probably good for a while yet. I noted that the coolant and chambers looked very clean. I suspect this car has had at least one coolant change at some point. Taking it just an hour or two in the evenings, I started by rebuilding the tensioner, putting on the new belt, applying tension, rotating the crank, checking timing marks, re-tensioning, etc. Satisfied that everything was lining up correctly, I then put the covers back on, installing the new rotors and distributors. Friday, I set aside the whole evening to put the accessories and belts back on. The first issue was the new belt for the power steering put is too short. Crap! Then I discovered that one of the mounting ears on the AC compressor is broken off. Another crap! I figured I could at least get the alternator back on so I could start cranking the engine but that new belt is not only too long... it's 5-row instead of 6-row. That's the last time I'll buy belts at O'Reilly! I checked the Porsche PET against the O'Reilly parts and there's definitely a difference. Perhaps those two belts fit the S1 928? Anyway, I cleaned up the AC compressor today and I'm trying JB Weld on that mounting ear. I'll give that a couple days to cure and then I'll try to install everything with the old belts on the PS pump and compressor.
#26
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Han Solo,
I have a used Nippondenso A/C compressor that was working when I removed it from the Red Witch. I installed a reman compressor when I overhauled the A/C system.
The used compressor is yours if you want it for the cost of shipping.
Note: You will need to reuse the top plates that the refrigerant hoses connect to. I kept mine to attach to the reman compressor.
As well, you will need the following:
928 573 908 03, valve insert, quantity 2
(these are the Schrader type valves under the black caps on the top plates)
O-ring seal for top plates, quantity 4
(I could not find a specific part number for these O-rings. However, any of the 928 specific vendors can help you out with them.)
O-ring seals for the refrigerant hoses
999 707 251 40, O-ring 14,0 X 1,8
999 707 250 40, O-ring 10,6 X 1,8
Also, this compressor had R134a running through it with POE oil. If you want to run R12, you will need to flush the compressor. Either way, you will want to drain and refill the oil in it.
Full disclosure: This used compressor worked in the Red Witch. A/C was reasonably cold given that the recirc flap was stuck open. However, the day after I initially got the car home, it lost all refrigerant from the system. I never did figure out why. I pulled a vacuum on the system, then recharged it with R134a. It held after that. Could have been the compressor shaft seal. I don't know. It did work until the day I took the car apart.
Let me know if you want it!
I have a used Nippondenso A/C compressor that was working when I removed it from the Red Witch. I installed a reman compressor when I overhauled the A/C system.
The used compressor is yours if you want it for the cost of shipping.
Note: You will need to reuse the top plates that the refrigerant hoses connect to. I kept mine to attach to the reman compressor.
As well, you will need the following:
928 573 908 03, valve insert, quantity 2
(these are the Schrader type valves under the black caps on the top plates)
O-ring seal for top plates, quantity 4
(I could not find a specific part number for these O-rings. However, any of the 928 specific vendors can help you out with them.)
O-ring seals for the refrigerant hoses
999 707 251 40, O-ring 14,0 X 1,8
999 707 250 40, O-ring 10,6 X 1,8
Also, this compressor had R134a running through it with POE oil. If you want to run R12, you will need to flush the compressor. Either way, you will want to drain and refill the oil in it.
Full disclosure: This used compressor worked in the Red Witch. A/C was reasonably cold given that the recirc flap was stuck open. However, the day after I initially got the car home, it lost all refrigerant from the system. I never did figure out why. I pulled a vacuum on the system, then recharged it with R134a. It held after that. Could have been the compressor shaft seal. I don't know. It did work until the day I took the car apart.
Let me know if you want it!
Last edited by skpyle; 09-18-2017 at 12:17 AM.
#27
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I think I'd soak it in something for a few days, then call Century Auto in Tuscon for a rebuild kit? They aren't expensive, we're talking maybe $35?
Regards,
#29
Rennlist Member
Otto Mechanic has a good idea! Get my compressor and put a seal kit in it.
Note: I am a sissy, A/C is a MUST any/all of my vehicles. I would do what I had to do to keep it working.
Note: I am a sissy, A/C is a MUST any/all of my vehicles. I would do what I had to do to keep it working.
#30
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