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The entire truth is I just happen to admire the work you've done (and photographed) on your intake...
I'm a sucker for a nice looking intake manifold.
Otto, I can't take credit for the intake. PO had that done almost 20 years ago. I will admit that the intake was a serious 'GOTCHA' factor for me in buying this car.
OP, sorry to stray off topic. I just reread this thread and wish you Good Luck in reviving this 928!
I have a used Nippondenso A/C compressor that was working when I removed it from the Red Witch. I installed a reman compressor when I overhauled the A/C system.
The used compressor is yours if you want it for the cost of shipping.
PTO day yesterday and I spent about 4 hours working on this project. I got all the belts installed except the AC compressor. The JB Weld didn't have the strength to hold that broken mount. So after putting all the hoses back on, throttle control mount, plugs and wires - I'm ready to crank this beast. Note that I've installed a re-built starter and alternator. Fully charged battery with charger on boost, turn the key and all I've got is the starter relay clicking. So I read several posts regarding starter wiring, ignition switches, etc. but I haven't metered voltage at the starter yet. I've tested all four relays related to starting and ignition using the horn circuit (simple and reliable). Tips on next steps much appreciated!
Burning up another PTO day yesterday and I first took the offending rebuilt starter back to the shop. Wrong terminal for the ignition 12V. Apparently the solenoid is different from OE so when bench tested, it's fine. Back at my garage, I reinstalled the starter and decided to fix the chewed wires going to the idle control valve. That involved removing all the intake runners and injectors so in I went. I also found some loose vacuum hoses off the throttle body which I fixed with some extra hose I had. Splicing the wires involved laying on top of the engine (painful) but done. I noted a fried connector to the crank sensor so that will need to be replaced. Meanwhile, a email to a trusted Porsche parts source reveals that the intake gaskets are NLA so after some throttle body clean-up I'm ready to put everything back together. When complete I'm cranking the engine, spraying ether and it's occasionally stumbling but not catching. Jumped the fuel pump circuit and cranking but no improvement. No tach bounce either. This morning I read a few posts regarding this starting condition and that's given me a few ideas.
Spray carb cleaner into the MAF and not ether. Be generous or open the throttle plate 1/4. It should fire pretty hard. Sometimes need two people to get it right.
If it's at least stumbling, then your ignition controller is working. That's a good thing. However, maybe your injectors aren't turning on? Check any of the injector wires with a noid light. There are several signals that have to happen before the injectors will turn on.
Plan to replace all the soft fuel lines right away. Plenty of carbeques previously.
Spray carb cleaner into the MAF and not ether. Be generous or open the throttle plate 1/4. It should fire pretty hard. Sometimes need two people to get it right.
If it's at least stumbling, then your ignition controller is working. That's a good thing. However, maybe your injectors aren't turning on? Check any of the injector wires with a noid light. There are several signals that have to happen before the injectors will turn on.
Plan to replace all the soft fuel lines right away. Plenty of carbeques previously.
I read one post about clatter from injectors randomly firing with ignition on but not cranking. I heard some noise yesterday but assumed that was cold start device (i.e. cold start valve CIS). I should see tach bounce though, correct? I also read a tip about tapping on the pod hood to wake up instrument cluster circuits. Love those old school solutions!
Clatter could be from the hyd lifters being empty after all that time sitting idle. Don't know, because I can't hear it. Could be from injectors.
Use the noid light on your injector wire - it is not CIS and the cold start enrichment is much different than CIS. Use carb cleaner as you crank, open the throttle some and spray while cranking engine. Replace soft fuel lines soon/now.
So I went back into top end to change out the reference sensor. I probably could have changed that without removing the intake but I knew there was a real mess under there. Understatement for sure. Oil, dirt and mouse nesting big time. After I cleaned all that up I removed a couple parts for better access to the sensor. That came apart trying to pull out so I had to drill out the remains. The magnet inside is super hard and I broke several small drill bits. I was finally able to drive the last 1/2" down into the bell housing and gave the crank a turn which dropped the pieces to the bottom. Last time I changed one of those I did it during a clutch and flywheel job. So much easier to drive it up and out. You can bet I'll be putting some anti seize on the new one. And while drilling my chuck buggered up the heater control valve so I'll have to replace that. I did note that the vacuum line going to the transmission is floating loose and I found another vacuum line off the FPR with was probably contributing to the no start condition. And of course all three rubber mounts on the throttle body/AFM assembly broke so I'll have to replace those. All those parts went to my bench for clean up. While I'm waiting on parts, I cleaned up the front fender liners and found the drivers side partition had some repairs to what appears to have been damage in a bad collision. Makes me wonder if that fender is a replacement. I did a better fix with some scrap sheet metal and pop rivets. Note that this car is intended to be a driver... not concours.
And ladies and gentlemen - it lives! After getting some critical parts, I put the intake back together this morning and started cranking. The engine came to life after trying several throttle positions. At first I had to give at least 1/2 throttle but eventually the idle control valve kicked in and it was able to settle into a decent idle. I noticed some smoke coming up around the driver side exhaust header which smelled like burning leaves. I figured that would roast off and continued applying throttle. Then I noticed the smoke was getting quite heavy and looked down around the header and there's flames down there. Crap! The shop fire extinguisher put those out. I shut down, pulled the battery lead and got the car up on jack stands to check the damage. Amazingly there was none. Mice nesting on the drivers side engine mount had caught fire. So I cleaned up all remaining materials and blew off all the fire extinguisher residue. The engine fires right back up and after I get the air filter parts back on, I'm ready for the first road test. The transmission goes right into drive with no issues. Reverse was a little more dodgy but eventually that settles in as well. I got stuck a little bit down the road for a few minutes but after cranking and trying different throttle settings again, I get the car moving at speed. I parked back at the house and gave the car it's first wash in my care. I love that feeling when I can get a car this neglected running and back on the road. I'll probably get some Sea Foam and blow that through the intake before I change the oil and filter.
Last week I did the spray Sea Foam treatment through one of the vacuum lines off the throttle body. Not sure how much that helped but I like to get that done before the first oil change. I did the oil change yesterday and ran the car up and down the drive (about 900' long) and played with the throttle quite a bit. The symptom is the car idles really well at 850 rpm. When you place the trans in drive, it sometimes stumbles and quits. After warming up real good, it usually doesn't stumble when you put it in drive but almost always does if you give more than just a tiny bit of throttle. Same is true when in park. However, if you very slowly apply throttle and get it up around 2000 rpm, it runs very well and responds to throttle quickly. It also will seem to hunt timing around 1200-1500 rpm. It was exhibiting those symptoms last week so I went ahead and ordered new plugs and a replacement TPS. I installed those today which meant pulling the intakes off cylinders 1-4 and the main T pipe. Then I just unbolted the throttle body and lifted it enough to change out the TPS. Just taking 1/2 the intake apart. Of course while I was putting the injector rail back on I broke one of the little vacuum **** off the thermo valve. Anyway, the new plugs and TPS didn't change anything so if anyone has some ideas... I'm open to suggestions.
09-18-2017, 01:45 AM
