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Update on the ongoing project: Took the intake apart and replaced all rubber couplings, injector rubber bushings and rubber vacuum lines. While the injectors were out, I soaked them for 3 days in Chemtool, then blew them out with compressed air. One of them seemed to be clogged at first, but got the Chemtool flowing after a couple of seconds.
While I had the car in the air to pull the faulty alternator, I pulled all 4 wheels, surfaced, primed and painted them and had them mounted/ balanced with new Conti Extreme Sport Contact tires. I have 2 good original Pirelli P7 tires that I removed and have available if someone wants them.
Mounted the newly refinished wheels/ tires with 1.5" rear spacers sourced from ebay. Looking forward to some dry weather so I can get the car out and look at it with the new stance, and drive it without the flat spotted ancient rubber. Hoping it was the tires that were causing the mild low speed vibration.
After putting the car back together, it seems to run the same despite the lack of vacuum leaks, so I'm suspecting the WUR. It runs much smoother after a minute or 2, but won't rev immediately after starting. I just ordered a CIS pressure tester today... will likely need the expertise of this forum some more with the injection.
That is a nice car within and without. No rub strips is really clean.
It is likely that the plastic base of your shift boot has some broken tabs. It should be a pretty secure fit regardless of how stiff the leather might be. A new one is not too bad $20-30.
Your center console probably has broken little ledges that the window switches clip onto, you will have to get creative with that, perhaps 'JB weld' a strip of metal in place.
That is odd about your Borla system, I have it fitted to my car and there was enough adjustment to center it between anything it might hit.
Moose- thanks, I checked the shift boot base again and noticed that it had 2 metal tabs that were clocked away from where they should be for installation... previous owner put it together like that to keep the parts from getting lost I suppose. I conditioned the boot and re-assembled with the tabs and screws and now it is solid and the leather is much softer. I'm learning how this interior goes together on the fly, as most of it was removed when I bought the car.
The Borla I bought was a NOS from years ago that someone sold on Ebay. I noticed when i got it that the Borla name is not embossed on any of the parts as I expected... hope it isn't some kinda Chinese copy. My only option seems to be a torch and a hammer to locally make some clearance on the pipe.
Update- drove the car a little today after putting new tires on refurbished wheels, and 1.5 inch spacers on the back. Also replaced all the rubber parts in the intake and vacuum circuit, cleaned all 8 injectors.
Running very well when warm, but rough and crappy for the first 2 minutes. I suspect the WUR is the issue, just got a CIS test kit, so I'll be troubleshooting that.
Low frequency vibration above 30 Mph that I assumed would go away with new tires, but still there, gets worse the faster you drive, so there is something going on with the dirveshaft and torque tube. The transaxle doesn't seem to make noise like I originally thought, but seems to have bad synchros in 1st and 2nd. Also, once you get lost in the shift pattern, it is hard to find the gears... like stirring oatmeal, so I guess the shifter bushings need replacing. Not looking forward to pulling the trans... is it a huge job? I have a lift, can get a trans jack.
Here are a couple of pics with fresh wheels and tires:
11-05-2017, 02:54 PM
