New member 1st time Porsche owner
#31
Rennlist Member
Be patient: replace fuel lines, regulators and dampeners. Have the injectors checked for leaks if applicable (witch hunter if he's still around). The aforementioned plus idle stabilizer valve, breather hoses and vacuum hoses should all be replaced at the same time. But Any questionable hydraulic hoses and fittings should be replaced 'stat'!
One bite at a time!
#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
Brad-
Could you elaborate on the Mercedes injectors? Are they different/better, or just cross referenced as a lower cost alternative to Porsche OEM?
Could you elaborate on the Mercedes injectors? Are they different/better, or just cross referenced as a lower cost alternative to Porsche OEM?
#33
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Near Mushroom Capital of the World
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#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just made a bone head $550 mistake while cleaning the innards of the fuel sender. Cleaning with a Dremel and wire brush, I got careless and the bit slipped and snapped one of the tiny bare wires. Has anyone had any luck soldering one back, or am I ordering a new one? It wasn't even that bad, but the float was hanging up slightly at times.
Rebuilt one rear caliper last night, been collecting new parts, fuel pumps, master cylinders etc. Changed the oil... have never owned a car that holds 8 quarts! New clutch slave is on, soaked cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank will be flushed one last time and reinstalled this weekend with new pumps and lines.
Anyone have a source for power window motors that don't cost $300 each? Cross referenced to a cheap Vw perhaps?
Rebuilt one rear caliper last night, been collecting new parts, fuel pumps, master cylinders etc. Changed the oil... have never owned a car that holds 8 quarts! New clutch slave is on, soaked cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank will be flushed one last time and reinstalled this weekend with new pumps and lines.
Anyone have a source for power window motors that don't cost $300 each? Cross referenced to a cheap Vw perhaps?
#35
Rennlist Member
Yep - just as good but lower priced alternative. I had them on 5.0L hybrid engine and they worked like a champ! Now getting them is out a different story!!
#36
Rennlist Member
Just made a bone head $550 mistake while cleaning the innards of the fuel sender. Cleaning with a Dremel and wire brush, I got careless and the bit slipped and snapped one of the tiny bare wires. Has anyone had any luck soldering one back, or am I ordering a new one? It wasn't even that bad, but the float was hanging up slightly at times.
Rebuilt one rear caliper last night, been collecting new parts, fuel pumps, master cylinders etc. Changed the oil... have never owned a car that holds 8 quarts! New clutch slave is on, soaked cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank will be flushed one last time and reinstalled this weekend with new pumps and lines.
Anyone have a source for power window motors that don't cost $300 each? Cross referenced to a cheap Vw perhaps?
Rebuilt one rear caliper last night, been collecting new parts, fuel pumps, master cylinders etc. Changed the oil... have never owned a car that holds 8 quarts! New clutch slave is on, soaked cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank will be flushed one last time and reinstalled this weekend with new pumps and lines.
Anyone have a source for power window motors that don't cost $300 each? Cross referenced to a cheap Vw perhaps?
Oil - Almost 9 if you pre-fill the oil filter!!
Clutch slave - you are going to have a heck of a time bleeding that if you haven't done before on a 928. They like to trap air bubbles. Motiv power bleeder is a recommended tool/procedure. Reverse pumping the slave is another.
I have a used power window motor tested/working. PM if interested.
#37
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Just made a bone head $550 mistake while cleaning the innards of the fuel sender. Cleaning with a Dremel and wire brush, I got careless and the bit slipped and snapped one of the tiny bare wires. Has anyone had any luck soldering one back, or am I ordering a new one? It wasn't even that bad, but the float was hanging up slightly at times.
#39
Rennlist Member
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update- Bought lots of parts: Engine bay fuel lines and fuel accumulator from Roger at 928srus, brake and clutch masters and hoses, fuel filter from Pelican. Tom at 928intl supplied a new fuel tank spider.
Got the fuel tank clean and re-installed with the good spider today, waiting on the hose from the strainer to the pump from 928srus.
Ordered the correct nichrome 40 gauge resistance wire to repair the fuel sender for 3.99 on Ebay! fingers crossed I can successfully solder it. Got 10 feet of it coming, so I have enough to screw up multiple times.
Here are a few pics:
Rusty fuel accumulator
Rusty fuel tank spider -- must've had a leak in the fuel hose between the pumps.
Pic of the underside with the tank out. Having a lift is a godsend, worth every penny I paid for it.
Should I be worried about this area of the rockers? There appears to be a wipe of filler on both sides under the rear edge of the door. Did Porsche do this poorly to hide a seam, or should I assume there has been a repair here? Magnet sticks across the whole area.
Got the fuel tank clean and re-installed with the good spider today, waiting on the hose from the strainer to the pump from 928srus.
Ordered the correct nichrome 40 gauge resistance wire to repair the fuel sender for 3.99 on Ebay! fingers crossed I can successfully solder it. Got 10 feet of it coming, so I have enough to screw up multiple times.
Here are a few pics:
Rusty fuel accumulator
Rusty fuel tank spider -- must've had a leak in the fuel hose between the pumps.
Pic of the underside with the tank out. Having a lift is a godsend, worth every penny I paid for it.
Should I be worried about this area of the rockers? There appears to be a wipe of filler on both sides under the rear edge of the door. Did Porsche do this poorly to hide a seam, or should I assume there has been a repair here? Magnet sticks across the whole area.
#41
Rennlist Member
I would replace the fuel level sender hose as well while you have everything out. Mine was leaking recently. Don't want to have to drop the tank twice. Roger has a kit. $15 I think. The spider 'may' have been salvageable with some tlc and die grinder brush. The accumulator area looks nasty. I would be soaking the fuel lines for a week with pblaster or something of the sort. Btw -!my window motor is a driver side with 78 part number....
take your time! It can get exciting to fix all at once but don't want to overlook anything. Keep posting your progress. This alsoba good time to spruce up those other areas.
take your time! It can get exciting to fix all at once but don't want to overlook anything. Keep posting your progress. This alsoba good time to spruce up those other areas.
#42
Instructor
Thread Starter
Re-did my fuel tank installation today after realizing that the vent hose had pulled through too far to attach to the filler neck. Hopefully the last time the tank comes out... I'm getting "good" at it though.
Cranked the engine to blow out Marvel Mystery oil, installed new NGK plugs and cleaned the engine compartment. Only bummer really is the cracked fan shroud.
Cranked the engine to blow out Marvel Mystery oil, installed new NGK plugs and cleaned the engine compartment. Only bummer really is the cracked fan shroud.
#43
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update: I'm ready to put the fuel system back together now, tank is in and new pumps are set to install.
Question: What is the hose that goes into the top of the accumulator? There seems to be a lot of extra length stuffed in behind the accumulator and pump, then it exits at the top of the inner fender. Is this an overflow or vent hose, or does it fill with fuel?
Question: What is the hose that goes into the top of the accumulator? There seems to be a lot of extra length stuffed in behind the accumulator and pump, then it exits at the top of the inner fender. Is this an overflow or vent hose, or does it fill with fuel?
#44
Rennlist Member
It's a vent of sorts. When the accumulator fails, fuel will leak out of that hose. Did away with it on my 78. On my 79, it runs around the fender well , connecting to a hard pipe, and dumps out center of car beneath bumper.
#45
Rennlist Member
Did you replace that accumulator? I would also replace the line from the pump to the accumulator. The accumulator on my 79 looked like yours, I wire brushed it (lightly) primered it with rust oleum, and painted it. Good luck, and keep posting. I am in the middle of repiping the fuel systems on the 79 right now as well. Already done it on my 78 and my 82.
Last edited by AirtekHVAC; 09-16-2017 at 11:02 PM.