New member 1st time Porsche owner
09-21-2017, 03:14 PM
#76
Rennlist Member
The idle was low because there was not enough fuel. It was barely running, say 400RPM. I could squirt starting fluid, and it would smooth out and idle comes up to 1200. It also wouldn't rev, partly I think to the timing being off. It doesn't seem to be running rich, no smoke, no burning eyes, no smell. I think I just need to adjust the idle at the throttle plate now. I can't overstate the fact that I haven't found varnish in any of the injectors or screens thus far.
Right now you are doing the equivalent of shooting arrows in the dark...
09-21-2017, 09:17 PM
#77
Instructor
Thread Starter
According to diagrams I have seen, there is an idle adjustment on the throttle body -- true or not? I have only adjusted the spring loaded mixture screw. I fully understand they are 2 different things. I'm also aware that it may be idling fast (and running lean before) due to a vacumm leak somewhere, so I'll be looking for those.
I'm really not sure what all the fuss is about if it runs good. I'm not going to just tear into the CIS if I don't have to. Shooting in the dark??? Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then. If it runs good, it runs good no matter how it happened.
I'm really not sure what all the fuss is about if it runs good. I'm not going to just tear into the CIS if I don't have to. Shooting in the dark??? Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then. If it runs good, it runs good no matter how it happened.
09-22-2017, 01:09 AM
#78
Rennlist Member
According to diagrams I have seen, there is an idle adjustment on the throttle body -- true or not? I have only adjusted the spring loaded mixture screw. I fully understand they are 2 different things. I'm also aware that it may be idling fast (and running lean before) due to a vacumm leak somewhere, so I'll be looking for those.
I'm really not sure what all the fuss is about if it runs good. I'm not going to just tear into the CIS if I don't have to. Shooting in the dark??? Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then. If it runs good, it runs good no matter how it happened.
I'm really not sure what all the fuss is about if it runs good. I'm not going to just tear into the CIS if I don't have to. Shooting in the dark??? Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then. If it runs good, it runs good no matter how it happened.
What form of measurement are using to understand "good"?
10-09-2017, 08:28 PM
#79
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update-- spent the last week doing hydraulics. This was after attempting to fill the old brake master with fluid and crossing my fingers. After some bleeding and a little bit of brake pedal I noticed fluid on the floor... coming from a rusty spot on the brake booster. The master filled it with fresh fluid.
Let me just say that after wrenching on cars for 30+ years the replacement of these masters and the brake booster are right up there with the biggest PITA mechanical work I have ever done. The booster itself was a nightmare, especially after missing step 1 where you clamp the rod in a depressed position.
Now after everything is new, soft lines, hard line to the clutch slave, all 4 soft lines to calipers I start to fill and bleed. Brakes are not a problem, but I finally got some air out of the clutch and the pedal got very hard. Like won't move past about halfway depressed. So I pumped some more and laid into it thinking stuck pressure plate, and wham! It goes to the floor again. I checked underneath the car and now the slave rod is sideways and jammed like it slipped out of the lever. Ugh.
Could my pressure plate and clutch disks be stuck? Is there a simple "shock" remedy or am I looking at full removal?
Let me just say that after wrenching on cars for 30+ years the replacement of these masters and the brake booster are right up there with the biggest PITA mechanical work I have ever done. The booster itself was a nightmare, especially after missing step 1 where you clamp the rod in a depressed position.
Now after everything is new, soft lines, hard line to the clutch slave, all 4 soft lines to calipers I start to fill and bleed. Brakes are not a problem, but I finally got some air out of the clutch and the pedal got very hard. Like won't move past about halfway depressed. So I pumped some more and laid into it thinking stuck pressure plate, and wham! It goes to the floor again. I checked underneath the car and now the slave rod is sideways and jammed like it slipped out of the lever. Ugh.
Could my pressure plate and clutch disks be stuck? Is there a simple "shock" remedy or am I looking at full removal?
10-11-2017, 09:57 PM
#80
Rennlist Member
Update-- spent the last week doing hydraulics. This was after attempting to fill the old brake master with fluid and crossing my fingers. After some bleeding and a little bit of brake pedal I noticed fluid on the floor... coming from a rusty spot on the brake booster. The master filled it with fresh fluid.
Let me just say that after wrenching on cars for 30+ years the replacement of these masters and the brake booster are right up there with the biggest PITA mechanical work I have ever done. The booster itself was a nightmare, especially after missing step 1 where you clamp the rod in a depressed position.
Now after everything is new, soft lines, hard line to the clutch slave, all 4 soft lines to calipers I start to fill and bleed. Brakes are not a problem, but I finally got some air out of the clutch and the pedal got very hard. Like won't move past about halfway depressed. So I pumped some more and laid into it thinking stuck pressure plate, and wham! It goes to the floor again. I checked underneath the car and now the slave rod is sideways and jammed like it slipped out of the lever. Ugh.
Could my pressure plate and clutch disks be stuck? Is there a simple "shock" remedy or am I looking at full removal?
Let me just say that after wrenching on cars for 30+ years the replacement of these masters and the brake booster are right up there with the biggest PITA mechanical work I have ever done. The booster itself was a nightmare, especially after missing step 1 where you clamp the rod in a depressed position.
Now after everything is new, soft lines, hard line to the clutch slave, all 4 soft lines to calipers I start to fill and bleed. Brakes are not a problem, but I finally got some air out of the clutch and the pedal got very hard. Like won't move past about halfway depressed. So I pumped some more and laid into it thinking stuck pressure plate, and wham! It goes to the floor again. I checked underneath the car and now the slave rod is sideways and jammed like it slipped out of the lever. Ugh.
Could my pressure plate and clutch disks be stuck? Is there a simple "shock" remedy or am I looking at full removal?
10-15-2017, 11:53 AM
#81
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update: The car can now move and stop under its own power! Clutch is working fine, wasn't an issue to bleed. It seems the clutch was not stuck after all, I must've loaded the slave rod wrong the first time. Haven't tried much more than backing out of the garage and pulling back in.
Question: The steel crossmember under the clutch housing -- is that supposed to have a support mount for the clutch housing? There is a formation on the crossmember that kinda looks like it should have a rubber mount of some kind, but there is nothing, and the clutch housing appears to have hit it at some point as it is bent, and there is a small chip in the aluminum housing. I removed the crossmember and found no provision for a mount on the clutch housing...
Next up: replacing leaky power steering lines so I can actually drive it. I have a new pressure line from Pelican, and now it looks like the reservoir is empty and the rubber feed line under it is very soft and wet. Just ordered one of those. Also, the engine is not running great when cold so the WUR needs some attention I suppose. Will have to look into a set of CIS gauges.
Question: The steel crossmember under the clutch housing -- is that supposed to have a support mount for the clutch housing? There is a formation on the crossmember that kinda looks like it should have a rubber mount of some kind, but there is nothing, and the clutch housing appears to have hit it at some point as it is bent, and there is a small chip in the aluminum housing. I removed the crossmember and found no provision for a mount on the clutch housing...
Next up: replacing leaky power steering lines so I can actually drive it. I have a new pressure line from Pelican, and now it looks like the reservoir is empty and the rubber feed line under it is very soft and wet. Just ordered one of those. Also, the engine is not running great when cold so the WUR needs some attention I suppose. Will have to look into a set of CIS gauges.
10-17-2017, 10:46 AM
#82
Rennlist Member
Question: The steel crossmember under the clutch housing -- is that supposed to have a support mount for the clutch housing? There is a formation on the crossmember that kinda looks like it should have a rubber mount of some kind, but there is nothing, and the clutch housing appears to have hit it at some point as it is bent, and there is a small chip in the aluminum housing. I removed the crossmember and found no provision for a mount on the clutch housing...
Next up: Also, the engine is not running great when cold so the WUR needs some attention I suppose. Will have to look into a set of CIS gauges.
Next up: Also, the engine is not running great when cold so the WUR needs some attention I suppose. Will have to look into a set of CIS gauges.
Clarify - Does the engine not start good when cold or RUN good when cold?
10-17-2017, 09:56 PM
#83
Instructor
Thread Starter
The engine starts easily, but idles slow and rough for about a minute, then when warm smooths out and revs more cleanly. Seems to run lean when cold. Also, I've been afraid to really get it warm, as I have yet to get the thermostat to open. I have only let it idle for a few minutes, but the temp gauge did not move from 0, and one side of the radiator stays cold. Afraid to run it much until I sort the cooling and gauge... may remove the thermostat and check in a pot of water.
10-20-2017, 08:35 AM
#84
Instructor
Thread Starter
Drove the car last night for 2 laps around our cul de sac! First time the 928 has turned its wheels under it's own power in almost 25 years.
Still isn't running great but clutch is good. Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, so I suspect there is not enough vacuum-- perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere is what causes the poor running and high idle. Brakes were fine otherwise. Borla exhaust is banging against the rear crossmember at the transaxle, and I see no good way to fix it. There just isn't enough clearance... if you move it to the right to gain clearance there, it fouls the battery box. May have to heat the pipe and put a clearance dent in it.
I think the thermostat is actually opening, and there is just some air in the system, will try to burp it tonight, and put a vaccum gauge on it to see what's going on...
Still isn't running great but clutch is good. Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, so I suspect there is not enough vacuum-- perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere is what causes the poor running and high idle. Brakes were fine otherwise. Borla exhaust is banging against the rear crossmember at the transaxle, and I see no good way to fix it. There just isn't enough clearance... if you move it to the right to gain clearance there, it fouls the battery box. May have to heat the pipe and put a clearance dent in it.
I think the thermostat is actually opening, and there is just some air in the system, will try to burp it tonight, and put a vaccum gauge on it to see what's going on...
10-20-2017, 11:47 AM
#85
Rennlist Member
Hi idle and poor running can definitely be caused by vacuum leaks. Spray some starting fluid around the engine bay to see if you can get the engine to raise or lower to identify vacuum. The rubber that connects the air intake to the main body are a common source. Check all of the other rubber lines. With that age, I'm certain they are either cracked or hard as a rock...
10-22-2017, 09:15 AM
#86
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update: So far on this project I have done the following:
All new hydraulics and brake booster --huge PITA
All new fuel lines
New fuel pumps and accumulator
Replaced power window switches
Replaced passenger side window motor
Re-installed interior
New hood and hatch struts
New Borla cat-back exhaust
Oil and filter change
New spark plugs and wires
Car still is not running well intermittently, so I sprayed starting fluid on rubber hose intake connectors, injector bungs and some vaccumm hoses. Every single thing I sprayed smoothed the idle some... Just ordered new hoses and injector rubber and intake couplers.
Also noticed that the alternator is not charging at all, so I ordererd one of those as well. Might just be a connection, but price was decent.
Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, but could be lack of vaccum.
Previous owner told me the transaxle was "a little noisy" I would say he understated that one by alot. Drove the car around the cul de sac island for a couple of laps yesterday and it seems to be growling bad even at 20mph. I do have a friend that has an extra 5 speed trans, but doesn't know the condition... Is there a common issue with bearing failure in these?
I'm already deeper into this car and my pocketbook than I ever planned, but I am loving the car and am determined to get it right.
Will post some pics today.
All new hydraulics and brake booster --huge PITA
All new fuel lines
New fuel pumps and accumulator
Replaced power window switches
Replaced passenger side window motor
Re-installed interior
New hood and hatch struts
New Borla cat-back exhaust
Oil and filter change
New spark plugs and wires
Car still is not running well intermittently, so I sprayed starting fluid on rubber hose intake connectors, injector bungs and some vaccumm hoses. Every single thing I sprayed smoothed the idle some... Just ordered new hoses and injector rubber and intake couplers.
Also noticed that the alternator is not charging at all, so I ordererd one of those as well. Might just be a connection, but price was decent.
Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, but could be lack of vaccum.
Previous owner told me the transaxle was "a little noisy" I would say he understated that one by alot. Drove the car around the cul de sac island for a couple of laps yesterday and it seems to be growling bad even at 20mph. I do have a friend that has an extra 5 speed trans, but doesn't know the condition... Is there a common issue with bearing failure in these?
I'm already deeper into this car and my pocketbook than I ever planned, but I am loving the car and am determined to get it right.
Will post some pics today.
10-22-2017, 07:40 PM
#87
Instructor
Thread Starter
Still a few things to sort out including the main vent in the center, and getting the clips on the new window switches to work with the console. Shift boot is so stiff it wont stay snapped to the console. Need front mats as well.
Borla
This shows the fit issue with the Borla exhaust hitting both the alloy crossmember and the heat shield for the battery box. Rattles like crazy. May have to heat the pipe and put a clearance dent in it locally.
10-22-2017, 08:16 PM
#88
Rennlist Member
Car looks fantastic, but looks like some bumper beading is missing from the rear bumper cover?
You may find that you need to rebuild the fuel distributor. They always gum up when a cis has been sitting.
Love the car.
You may find that you need to rebuild the fuel distributor. They always gum up when a cis has been sitting.
Love the car.
10-23-2017, 11:57 AM
#89
Rennlist Member
Update: So far on this project I have done the following:
All new hydraulics and brake booster --huge PITA
All new fuel lines
New fuel pumps and accumulator
Replaced power window switches
Replaced passenger side window motor
Re-installed interior
New hood and hatch struts
New Borla cat-back exhaust
Oil and filter change
New spark plugs and wires
Car still is not running well intermittently, so I sprayed starting fluid on rubber hose intake connectors, injector bungs and some vaccumm hoses. Every single thing I sprayed smoothed the idle some... Just ordered new hoses and injector rubber and intake couplers.
Also noticed that the alternator is not charging at all, so I ordererd one of those as well. Might just be a connection, but price was decent.
Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, but could be lack of vaccum.
Previous owner told me the transaxle was "a little noisy" I would say he understated that one by alot. Drove the car around the cul de sac island for a couple of laps yesterday and it seems to be growling bad even at 20mph. I do have a friend that has an extra 5 speed trans, but doesn't know the condition... Is there a common issue with bearing failure in these?
I'm already deeper into this car and my pocketbook than I ever planned, but I am loving the car and am determined to get it right.
Will post some pics today.
All new hydraulics and brake booster --huge PITA
All new fuel lines
New fuel pumps and accumulator
Replaced power window switches
Replaced passenger side window motor
Re-installed interior
New hood and hatch struts
New Borla cat-back exhaust
Oil and filter change
New spark plugs and wires
Car still is not running well intermittently, so I sprayed starting fluid on rubber hose intake connectors, injector bungs and some vaccumm hoses. Every single thing I sprayed smoothed the idle some... Just ordered new hoses and injector rubber and intake couplers.
Also noticed that the alternator is not charging at all, so I ordererd one of those as well. Might just be a connection, but price was decent.
Brake booster does not seem to be boosting, but could be lack of vaccum.
Previous owner told me the transaxle was "a little noisy" I would say he understated that one by alot. Drove the car around the cul de sac island for a couple of laps yesterday and it seems to be growling bad even at 20mph. I do have a friend that has an extra 5 speed trans, but doesn't know the condition... Is there a common issue with bearing failure in these?
I'm already deeper into this car and my pocketbook than I ever planned, but I am loving the car and am determined to get it right.
Will post some pics today.
Brake Booster - Verify your Black/Blue vacuum valve is working properly or better yet...there...
Alternator - Most likely the connection - common problem - check your t14 connector for corrosion and clean.
Are you sure the noise is coming from the tranny and not Torque tube? There are three bearing in the TT that can growl also. If it is the tranny mostly likely the needle bearings or main drive shaft is pitted causing the noise.
Kick out those back wheels with some spacers!!
10-23-2017, 06:08 PM
#90
Burning Brakes
That is a nice car within and without. No rub strips is really clean.
It is likely that the plastic base of your shift boot has some broken tabs. It should be a pretty secure fit regardless of how stiff the leather might be. A new one is not too bad $20-30.
Your center console probably has broken little ledges that the window switches clip onto, you will have to get creative with that, perhaps 'JB weld' a strip of metal in place.
That is odd about your Borla system, I have it fitted to my car and there was enough adjustment to center it between anything it might hit.
It is likely that the plastic base of your shift boot has some broken tabs. It should be a pretty secure fit regardless of how stiff the leather might be. A new one is not too bad $20-30.
Your center console probably has broken little ledges that the window switches clip onto, you will have to get creative with that, perhaps 'JB weld' a strip of metal in place.
That is odd about your Borla system, I have it fitted to my car and there was enough adjustment to center it between anything it might hit.