Problem with access to transmission mount bolts
07-17-2017, 05:16 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
The lift device is rather neat. You can clearly see how the old mount has collapsed comparitively speaking albeit it is unloaded. At least on my 928 everything under the car is in as-new condition- no corrosion or road grunge whatoever- just the plastic bits that are falling apart as quick as I can replace them.
Rgds
Fred
Rgds
Fred
07-17-2017, 05:25 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
For the right hand side I've experimented with an extension and NoVector is right you can get onto the bolt from the side (no way through on the left). I had bought some while ago a 24" 1/2" extension just with this job in mind, but it's too long to line up properly through that tight gap. I will see if I can pick up an 18" tomorrow which will be long enough to let me get a breaker bar on the end.
07-18-2017, 11:06 AM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm now halfway and worried that doing half the job is worse than doing no job, as the RHS upper bolt is proving to be a problem so currently have one old and one new mount in place..
I installed the new left side mount though. At first it was frustratingly difficult to line up the bolt with the upper bolt with the hole, but it just needed the transmission to be jacked high enough to accommodate the new mount. I made some more room for my hand by undoing the heat shield on that side and shifting it to the left.
The RHS upper bolt is a bear. I undid the axle on that side at the diff and let it rest on the exhaust to create more space, but I couldn't find a way up and at an angle with different combinations of tools.
Haven't tried the straight shot through the wheel well as need to get an 18" extension - tried chaining together some 1/2" extensions but the flared sections made it too wide to go through that narrow channel.
I'm also concerned that even if I manage to get to the upper bolt, it's going to be very difficult installing the new mount with such awkward access.
I installed the new left side mount though. At first it was frustratingly difficult to line up the bolt with the upper bolt with the hole, but it just needed the transmission to be jacked high enough to accommodate the new mount. I made some more room for my hand by undoing the heat shield on that side and shifting it to the left.
The RHS upper bolt is a bear. I undid the axle on that side at the diff and let it rest on the exhaust to create more space, but I couldn't find a way up and at an angle with different combinations of tools.
Haven't tried the straight shot through the wheel well as need to get an 18" extension - tried chaining together some 1/2" extensions but the flared sections made it too wide to go through that narrow channel.
I'm also concerned that even if I manage to get to the upper bolt, it's going to be very difficult installing the new mount with such awkward access.
07-18-2017, 12:04 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
I was in exactly the same position a couple of months ago, couldn't shift the top right bolt after loosening the other three. I had the drive shaft out completely and the ratchet spanner was starting to round the bolt head. I sprayed it with WD40 and left it overnight, gave it some heat with a torch and then got it moving through the wheel arch.
07-20-2017, 04:35 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Took day off from this yesterday but made great progress today.
I know there's a straight shot on the bolt from wheel well, but the extension I need won't arrive till next week.
On the RHS I'd let the unbolted axle drop down, but realised that I would have almost a straight shot at the upper bolt by pushing the inner CV up and tying it out the way. I could then put either offset wrench or handle and socket on the bolt (only had a short 3/8" breaker), but the angle meant I couldn't get good blows with mallet on end of either. I have long 1/2" breakers but there's not enough room for 1/2" socket and breaker bar head between bolt head and a bracket up there!
But then I found there was room to sneak up the handle and socket in front of the crossmember. On my back I could then shove the end with my foot and broke the bolt free.
After that it was very fast to take out old bolt with ratchet/fingers, and install the new mount with new bolts (the upper ones had no anti-seize from factory, but I put some on new ones though don't expect to repeat job for another 26 years!).
Now there's what seems a yawning gap between transmission and crossmember.
Just need to torque things up now, and bolt the axle back on to the diff.
I know there's a straight shot on the bolt from wheel well, but the extension I need won't arrive till next week.
On the RHS I'd let the unbolted axle drop down, but realised that I would have almost a straight shot at the upper bolt by pushing the inner CV up and tying it out the way. I could then put either offset wrench or handle and socket on the bolt (only had a short 3/8" breaker), but the angle meant I couldn't get good blows with mallet on end of either. I have long 1/2" breakers but there's not enough room for 1/2" socket and breaker bar head between bolt head and a bracket up there!
But then I found there was room to sneak up the handle and socket in front of the crossmember. On my back I could then shove the end with my foot and broke the bolt free.
After that it was very fast to take out old bolt with ratchet/fingers, and install the new mount with new bolts (the upper ones had no anti-seize from factory, but I put some on new ones though don't expect to repeat job for another 26 years!).
Now there's what seems a yawning gap between transmission and crossmember.
Just need to torque things up now, and bolt the axle back on to the diff.
07-20-2017, 05:06 PM
#24
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have a lift, and a 3 stage transmission jack. I used Dean Fuller's video to pull the tranny out of my 89. Never had a problem getting to the trans mount bolts. Used a combination wrench to unbolt them.
I guess the lift makes a big difference.
FWIW, I never pulled the torque tube, just slid the tranny back off the drive shaft.
I guess the lift makes a big difference.
FWIW, I never pulled the torque tube, just slid the tranny back off the drive shaft.
07-23-2017, 03:23 AM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Captain. There's definitely added smoothness to upshifts now on wide throttle. Nice new rubber must help (the installed mounts are dated 2016).
This is another of those 928 jobs that would be comparatively easy to do second time, but there won't be chance for decades unless I buy another!
This is another of those 928 jobs that would be comparatively easy to do second time, but there won't be chance for decades unless I buy another!
07-23-2017, 08:04 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Adrian, Presumably you are attempting to change the mounts? I had this problem a couple of years ago- the mounts had sunk to the point I was getting vibration from metal to metal contact.
I was having the same problem as you but then Stan suggested packing the mounts with rubber. I did it a slightly different way using an old inner tube to make a packer. Jacked up the transaxle, popped in the packers and no vibes since- took about 5 minutes to insert them. I have a thread on this titled "auto gearbox mounts" - if of interest. Rgds Fred
I was having the same problem as you but then Stan suggested packing the mounts with rubber. I did it a slightly different way using an old inner tube to make a packer. Jacked up the transaxle, popped in the packers and no vibes since- took about 5 minutes to insert them. I have a thread on this titled "auto gearbox mounts" - if of interest. Rgds Fred
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ox-mounts.html
There you go.
