StratfordShark

I didn't think this job would be so awkward - some people manage it in 30 minutes per side!

The problem on my RHD S4 is on the right hand side with access to the bottom bolt.

I've removed the handbrake cable bracket bolts to allow that to wiggle a bit and let me push aside the flexible section of the cable, but I still can't squeeze a 19mm socket between the handbrake assembly to let me get on to the bottom bolt head.

I know some people manage this without even removing the handbrake bracket, so what's the solution here please? I thought the lower bolts were the easy ones!

In the photo the bolt is framed by the flexible cable at the top, and the unbolted metal bracket. Unbolting the bracket lets me move the handbrake assembly a little, but not so much that I can move the bracket to make room for the socket.

Thanks a lot

Adrian

Tom in Austin

They are hard to reach!

FredR

Adrian,

Presumably you are attempting to change the mounts? I had this problem a couple of years ago- the mounts had sunk to the point I was getting vibration from metal to metal contact.

I was having the same problem as you but then Stan suggested packing the mounts with rubber. I did it a slightly different way using an old inner tube to make a packer. Jacked up the transaxle, popped in the packers and no vibes since- took about 5 minutes to insert them. I have a thread on this titled "auto gearbox mounts" - if of interest.

Rgds

Fred

StratfordShark

Hi Fred yes am changing as PM - no vibration and can see tranny clears crossmember.

Should have known better as becoming frustrating job just getting to the lower bolt on that side.

FredR

Just do what I did and the save the new mounts for another day given I have no idea how long my mod will last.

Rgds

Fred

StratfordShark

You did a very near job there Fred!

I'm not going to give up yet as I have the new mounts, so they've got to go in one day!

Captain_Slow

I posted a thread on how I did this. It's an easy job once you discover the tricks. Hope this helps...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

Captain_Slow

Sorry Stratford! It's been awhile since I've done this so I read through my old thread and found you were the first to respond. I recall removing the 10mm bolts anchoring the parking brake only helped if I had the brake off (slackened cable).

Taguid

With the parking brake off, I was able to separate the cables and access the bolts without much interference.

StratfordShark

Thanks Captain Slow and Taguid, and Captain Slow I have your excellent post printed out under car with me - great write up!

Just got that bolt out. The trick in my case was:

- parking brake was off originally - maybe could have got more slack from disconnecting at handle but what actually worked was bolting back the RHS, so that when I pushed the flexible cable away the bolted metal section wasn't moving slightly and obstructing

- removing the metal shield from transmission reservoir gave a few more mm room

- cracked the bolt with 1/2" tools (very tight, despite copper anti-seize on that bolt applied at factory), but there isn't room to withdraw the slightly longer 19mm socket I had compared with the 3/8", so unbolted all the way with a shallower 3/8" socket and extension

1 bolt down, 3 to go. I think after jacking up the transmission slightly as per Capatin Slow/s write-up, there will be better access to the upper bolts. I have a 24" extension at the ready in c ase I can reach either through wheel well.

Captain_Slow

Stratford - sounds like you are on your way. Even the same job can be different in the finer details from one 928 to the next...nice creative solution bolting up the right side of the bracket. When jacking up the trans, you want to try to lift it to a neutral position (not stretching the old rubber mounts). After breaking the upper bolts free, if there's little compression or tension in the mount the bolts will come out easily using only your fingers.

StratfordShark

Great timing Captain Slow, as having removed the unobstructed left side lower bolt in minutes, I'm now facing the left side upper.

Tried your hammer on an offset wrench technique but it won't budge. The big problem I have is there's no room behind the bolt head for a socket and breaker bar head, and there's no way you can reach it from wheel well - too much stuff in the way. The lower bolt is removed but not raised trans at all yet.

It's looking like I may have to remove axle at diff to give me room from the rear.

NoVector

Are you sure you can't get at the upper bolts through the wheel well? It's a tight fit, but with a long extension it worked for me.

FredR

Smart people know when to give up!!

Now the question is how long will you bang your head against a brick wall before realising it hurts?

Wishing you every success. I suspect it is one of those jobs that is so much easier when the car is on a lift but when on jack stands it sucks big time!

StratfordShark

Not too much banging head against the wall this time!

The LHS is now out anyway. I hadn't budged that upper bolt using an offset wrench, but I have a beefier through ratchet - it's designed for studs but in this case the way the socket sits in the ratchet head means it's more compact than an ordinary ratchet. Bashing the heck out of it with a mallet broke the bolt free, and then I could use a flex-head gear wrench/fingers to remove it after raising the transmission a few mm to take the strain.

The old mount on that side had collapsed but not as bad as others I've seen. I'm pretty sure it's the original on a 26 year old car but which has done only just under 80,000 miles.

Axle stands would be a pain for this job Fred, so she's on the Quickjack!

For the right hand side I've experimented with an extension and NoVector is right you can get onto the bolt from the side (no way through on the left). I had bought some while ago a 24" 1/2" extension just with this job in mind, but it's too long to line up properly through that tight gap. I will see if I can pick up an 18" tomorrow which will be long enough to let me get a breaker bar on the end.