Auto gearbox mounts
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Auto gearbox mounts
My gearbox mounts are close to end of life- still a bit of clearance left but noticed today the handbrake cable may now be in contact.
I remember seeing thread with suggestions as to how to extend the life of such mounts by inserting something into the Vee but cannot find it.
Similarly I also seem to remember a thread that someone may be making an after market alternative given the sky rocketing cost of OEM parts- anything of note in that direction?
Rgds
Fred
I remember seeing thread with suggestions as to how to extend the life of such mounts by inserting something into the Vee but cannot find it.
Similarly I also seem to remember a thread that someone may be making an after market alternative given the sky rocketing cost of OEM parts- anything of note in that direction?
Rgds
Fred
#2
Team Owner
to do this Fred put a block of wood under the trans,
then jack it up slowly, this will open the top area for the inserts.
Then find a thicker side wall from a tire,
cut a piece of about 2 by 1 1/2 inches,
make 4 of these, then stack them into 2 pieces,
Use a grinder to taper the upper part,
then slide them into the top of the mount,
NOTE this will hold the trans a bit higher than it was,
and it will also transfer a bit of vibration to the chassis.
but the trans will be held in a higher position
then jack it up slowly, this will open the top area for the inserts.
Then find a thicker side wall from a tire,
cut a piece of about 2 by 1 1/2 inches,
make 4 of these, then stack them into 2 pieces,
Use a grinder to taper the upper part,
then slide them into the top of the mount,
NOTE this will hold the trans a bit higher than it was,
and it will also transfer a bit of vibration to the chassis.
but the trans will be held in a higher position
#3
Hey Fred,
Check out this link, it has a pic of what I did on new mounts. Working well, so far. No extra vibration. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ans-mount.html (I used a spare exhaust hanger for the rubber.)
Kevin
Check out this link, it has a pic of what I did on new mounts. Working well, so far. No extra vibration. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ans-mount.html (I used a spare exhaust hanger for the rubber.)
Kevin
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Gents,
Thanks for the tips- should be able to do something in this regard. If nothing else it is worth a go.
Given the limited access in the mount area I had the impression it would be more or less impossible to do anything in that area without removing the mounts first so that is something to work on.
Rgds
Fred
Thanks for the tips- should be able to do something in this regard. If nothing else it is worth a go.
Given the limited access in the mount area I had the impression it would be more or less impossible to do anything in that area without removing the mounts first so that is something to work on.
Rgds
Fred
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well decided today was D day for the auto box mounts- nice 30C weather before the hot oven returns at the end of this month.
I had two options open to me viz:
1. Try to replace the mounts with the used ones Tom kindly sent me.
2. Install a remedy along the lines Stan suggested earlier [plan B].
I jacked the car up onto my axle stands/support beams and removed the wheels and exhaust system back to the x-pipe. After studying the job in hand I ind of figured that removing the mounts was a bit trickier than I expect so decided to go to plan B for today.
In planning this action I took a strip of inner tube and using the spare mounts as a dolly, I figured I needed a strip of rubber about a foot long and an inch or so wide. I carefully formed an insert by rolling up the inner tube section to form an inset that I bound together with Gorilla tape. When completed the insert had 6 layers of inner tube and I made two of these, one for each mount. The end curves seem to fit the profile of the mount nicely.
I then jacked up the transaxle about 1/2 inch under the diff unit. I then inspected the raised surfaces and I could see that the handbrake assembly was fretting on the box casing- presumably where some vibration was being transmitted. Inserting the packer was as easy as posting a letter. For the driver side I disconnected the half shaft whilst I was deciding what to do but in reality this was not necessary for what I ended up doing today.
After doing a few more job I put everything back together and took it for a test drive down the local expressway. Steady drive at about 70 mph but something did not feel right then it dawned on me- I had not torqued up the rear wheels after taking the car off the axle stands and the nut were only being held by speed brace torque. I stopped the car and checked the wheel nuts [open ended] and they looked in place with nothing about to drop off but could do nothing as I left the OEM wheel nut tool back at the house! I drove home very gingerly and torqued up the nuts-
Quick test drive- this time it ran fine. No idea how long this "get me by" will last but the gearbox seems to be sitting about 8mm higher than it was. You cans ee on the pic below how it now sits whereas previously the gap was more or less closed.
Regards
Fred
I had two options open to me viz:
1. Try to replace the mounts with the used ones Tom kindly sent me.
2. Install a remedy along the lines Stan suggested earlier [plan B].
I jacked the car up onto my axle stands/support beams and removed the wheels and exhaust system back to the x-pipe. After studying the job in hand I ind of figured that removing the mounts was a bit trickier than I expect so decided to go to plan B for today.
In planning this action I took a strip of inner tube and using the spare mounts as a dolly, I figured I needed a strip of rubber about a foot long and an inch or so wide. I carefully formed an insert by rolling up the inner tube section to form an inset that I bound together with Gorilla tape. When completed the insert had 6 layers of inner tube and I made two of these, one for each mount. The end curves seem to fit the profile of the mount nicely.
I then jacked up the transaxle about 1/2 inch under the diff unit. I then inspected the raised surfaces and I could see that the handbrake assembly was fretting on the box casing- presumably where some vibration was being transmitted. Inserting the packer was as easy as posting a letter. For the driver side I disconnected the half shaft whilst I was deciding what to do but in reality this was not necessary for what I ended up doing today.
After doing a few more job I put everything back together and took it for a test drive down the local expressway. Steady drive at about 70 mph but something did not feel right then it dawned on me- I had not torqued up the rear wheels after taking the car off the axle stands and the nut were only being held by speed brace torque. I stopped the car and checked the wheel nuts [open ended] and they looked in place with nothing about to drop off but could do nothing as I left the OEM wheel nut tool back at the house! I drove home very gingerly and torqued up the nuts-
Quick test drive- this time it ran fine. No idea how long this "get me by" will last but the gearbox seems to be sitting about 8mm higher than it was. You cans ee on the pic below how it now sits whereas previously the gap was more or less closed.
Regards
Fred