No oil pressure.. suggestions?
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
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No oil pressure.. suggestions?
Hello,
I have an 86 turbo that I just did the timing belt/waterpump/ cam tower seal job on it. Everything went smoothly until I tried to get oil pressure. Still none, here is what I've tried:
-Cleaned sending units connections
-Pulled oil pressure relief valve (newer version) works properly. Replaced the outside oring. However when cranking the car with the oprv out, no oil comes spitting out
-primed through the center hole with the oil filter off. Also tried rotating the crank ccw while filling center hole.
-blowing air in oil filler tube while cranking
Another member of this forum helped me with the timing belt water pump install. I believe he knows very well how perform the job as he has done it on many of his personal 944's. I know it's an important step to make sure the crank is tightened down to 150Nm? I saw him do it but he didn't use a torque wrench. I saw him torque the bolt down and he really got on the thing. Maybe even more than 150Nm? I noticed that the power steering pulley is abit off and the power steering pulley does have a little play. I don't have a flywheel lock so I can't check the tightness. Might this be the problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have an 86 turbo that I just did the timing belt/waterpump/ cam tower seal job on it. Everything went smoothly until I tried to get oil pressure. Still none, here is what I've tried:
-Cleaned sending units connections
-Pulled oil pressure relief valve (newer version) works properly. Replaced the outside oring. However when cranking the car with the oprv out, no oil comes spitting out
-primed through the center hole with the oil filter off. Also tried rotating the crank ccw while filling center hole.
-blowing air in oil filler tube while cranking
Another member of this forum helped me with the timing belt water pump install. I believe he knows very well how perform the job as he has done it on many of his personal 944's. I know it's an important step to make sure the crank is tightened down to 150Nm? I saw him do it but he didn't use a torque wrench. I saw him torque the bolt down and he really got on the thing. Maybe even more than 150Nm? I noticed that the power steering pulley is abit off and the power steering pulley does have a little play. I don't have a flywheel lock so I can't check the tightness. Might this be the problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#3
Rennlist Member
That PS pulley is borked for sure. Something didn't line up right. Your going to have to get a flywheel lock and get that corrected.
EDIT: I had to change my comment after looking at the pictures again. I had thought that was the PS pump, but that's the PS pully on the crank. And I know I've read it can be tricky to get lined back up right, and if it isn't, your oil pump no workie right.
EDIT: I had to change my comment after looking at the pictures again. I had thought that was the PS pump, but that's the PS pully on the crank. And I know I've read it can be tricky to get lined back up right, and if it isn't, your oil pump no workie right.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Yeah that definitely looks like it! I don't know if you noticed while doing the job, but there's no key for the oil pump drive gear - it just gets pressed into place by the pulleys, which are all pressed together by the bolt...that's why the 150 ft/lbs is so important. Here it looks like the bolt is holding the PS pulley but the PS pulley is not putting any pressure on the next one.
#5
Drifting
It would be wise to get a flywheel lock and a proper torque wrench.
Search 'no oil pressure' threads and you will find a few with the pulley not seated correctly on the key before it was torqued down.
Search 'no oil pressure' threads and you will find a few with the pulley not seated correctly on the key before it was torqued down.
#6
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Another thing to consider since you had everything off is if you put all the required parts back on the crank - oil pump drive gear>o-ring>washer>crank sprocket the right way around>pulleys>bolt at 155lbft.
#7
Rennlist Member
Oh, and I'll bet $10 you need a new pulley now. If it was me I'd get one on the way unless your in no hurry.
I'd be surprised if someone here doesn't have a spare one sitting around.
I'd be surprised if someone here doesn't have a spare one sitting around.
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#8
#10
Lock
Alt Lock :
I have see some remove the starter and rotate the crank until one of the pressure plate bolts is accessible through the starter hole remove the Socket head Cap Screw and screw in a longer bolt locked with jam nut, so that the bolts additional extension it will get stopped by the starter hole in the bell housing.
I just removed the Ft crank pulleys and oil pump from a 83 motor. Any chance you forgot the special washer at the oil pump ?
K
I have see some remove the starter and rotate the crank until one of the pressure plate bolts is accessible through the starter hole remove the Socket head Cap Screw and screw in a longer bolt locked with jam nut, so that the bolts additional extension it will get stopped by the starter hole in the bell housing.
I just removed the Ft crank pulleys and oil pump from a 83 motor. Any chance you forgot the special washer at the oil pump ?
K
#11
Three Wheelin'
You did not have the PS pulley fully seated (it was cocked a bit) when you tightened the bolt. Remove it and you will see its deformed now. BTDT.. New PS pulley + Torque should solve it.
#14
Three Wheelin'
I don,t think 10 is too bad, I was Really fat on the track at 9 but didnt have an issue.. Lean is mean but could get expensive. No idea what you are using for turbo /injectors/ management/ but if it is possible , you could lower Fuel pressure a Tad but dont go above 11-11.5 on the wideband is what I was told... Im running a REAL conservative tune on me standalone.. I had a brain fart and overboosted my car on accident and tore the engine down after running 9 all day on the wideband. and the carbon does not look excessive..