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Advice for Interior Restoration

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Old 03-07-2017 | 02:23 PM
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Default Advice for Interior Restoration

So, I went to go clean my carpets one day, and ended up taking everything out, including dash, seats, carpets, everything. You know....

Now I am down to metal and glue basically, and I am having a hard time. I want to get everything down to metal so it is nice and clean, add some sound barrier stuff, and put everything in nice. But getting this glue off is a pain! I've tried goo gone stuff, tried plastic scrapers, and it is just slow.

Any advice for getting the carpet and sound barrier glue off so I have just metal?

Thanks!
Old 03-07-2017 | 03:34 PM
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Use the search feature. Lots of suggestions.

Also, why remove if you are doing a restoration? Lot of work to replace with a modern material.
Old 03-07-2017 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by szabon
So, I went to go clean my carpets one day, and ended up taking everything out, including dash, seats, carpets, everything. You know....
been there done that, and a week or so later all my carpet had turned black

you could try acetone but it will also lift the paint underneath the glue...
Old 03-07-2017 | 05:31 PM
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I'm doing it because the old carpet is kinda nasty, and I figured if I am in here I may as well do it right.

Does lifting the paint really matter, since I am putting the carpet back? And if I do, should I take a rattle can and paint over the stripped areas to protect them, or does it matter?
Old 03-07-2017 | 07:54 PM
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You definitely want some protective layer over the metal. Carpet retains water, water leads to rust, rust leads to tears.

As far as removal, I've heard dry ice helps to make the glue and tar brittle so it can be chipped off with a scraper. Never tested it personally, though.
Old 03-07-2017 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SloMo228
You definitely want some protective layer over the metal. Carpet retains water, water leads to rust, rust leads to tears.
Old 03-07-2017 | 08:55 PM
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I'm using a heat gun to soften the glue, a putty knife to remove and wipe the glue onto a box edge. Leaves a light coating of adhesive to be removed using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover with paper towels/shop rags.

Saves the paint finish. Of course, YMMV.
Old 03-08-2017 | 01:27 PM
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Im Building a Race car and painted the entire inside. I used a multi-tool with a non-serrated scraper blade, it made really short work of all that glue. (Porter cable $45 at Lowes) Didn't really scratch the paint too much either.
BTW When I restored my 86 and pulled the carpet to replace it. I used Roofing material from Lowes, it is the exact stuff as Dyna-mat but Way cheaper.... Comes in Rolls, peel and stick!
Old 03-12-2017 | 01:52 PM
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Awesome. I just bought a heat gun and will get to work on it. Then I'll figure out what to do about soundproofing and such.

Thanks everyone!
Old 03-13-2017 | 11:05 AM
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FWIW I tried the dry ice process recently and was disappointed. The stuff Porsche used must be tough because the dry ice did not phase it. I used a dry ice slurry combined with rubbing alcohol. I think that the heat gun and scraper is going to be the way to go.
Old 03-13-2017 | 01:25 PM
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CitriStrip is a favorite. Here's my thread about stripping the interior:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...own-paint.html

I still don't have a great solution for covering the bare metal. I was hoping to find a brush-on epoxy primer, but they don't seem to exist. POR-15 is probably fine. Most paints are probably fine, really...

For sound damping, don't just cover everything in a layer of Dynamat, use a three layer approach:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...nsulation.html

Random thread about quieting a 944 specifically:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-pictures.html
Old 03-22-2017 | 04:34 PM
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I used Roofing material from Lowes, it is the exact stuff as Dyna-mat but Way cheaper.... Comes in Rolls, peel and stick!
Someone here a few years back said the roofing stuff gets stinky when hot; I guess we can kill off that one now....Bruce
Old 03-24-2017 | 01:48 AM
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Here's what I used in my car.

https://smile.amazon.com/Noico-deade...ound+deadening

Butyl based, so no stink in the heat like the asphalt based stuff you get from HD or Lowes..

Not as cheap as the stuff in the roofing section, but way cheaper than Dynamat. I'm very happy with the Noico Liner.
Old 03-24-2017 | 11:43 AM
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There are no secrets to sound damping materials. You get what you pay for here, and most of the outlay in a project like this is time.

I would buy the absolute best materials you can, and I believe those to be SDS stuff or Luxury Liner Pro. I like SDS because the layers are distinct and it seems easier to install around curves and such.

Maybe the other stuff won't smell. Maybe it won't fall off on a hot day. Maybe it damps just as well. Maybe it's not worth tearing out your interior to redo over...
Old 03-24-2017 | 06:32 PM
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As for removing adhesive, or just about anything else on the paint, try using WD40 or PB Blaster. Simply spray on, then wipe off. It doesn't harm the paint and makes the surface shiny and clean. Before and after pics - Removing that black rubbery sealant around the filler neck hose area.
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