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Anyone familiar with Tilton/Wilwood pedal box install?
I've searched & not really finding information on a floor mounted 3 pedal set up.
I'm merely trying to find out the "scope" of a pedal box install on a factory 1988 n/a 944. What parts need replacing to would with the oem clutch and brakes.
Okay, Wilwood has some good information. It would be good to get some details on the hydraulic changes involved to make this work with a factory car. It would be nice to get the booster out of the engine bay but I'd like to stay with "power assist".
I also like the ability to bias the brakes with the pedal assembly, though I personally really like the factory brakes.
Soon I'll be putting an under-mount set of Tiltons pedals in a 944 race car (with the LS3, there's no room for the booster).
I'm going to do something similar to Tony G.
As long as you can run brake and vacuum lines, on a race car you can put the brake boosters anywhere. How about the passenger footwell or the rear seat location.
As long as you can run brake and vacuum lines, on a race car you can put the brake boosters anywhere. How about the passenger footwell or the rear seat location.
Well, don't forget a linkage system... We looked at several options, and think the fab work will be easier (and the end result simpler) to just go with manual brakes. This will be an endurance race car, so simplicity and reliability are paramount.
I've driven Formula SAE racers that had manual brakes but still had excellent stopping power and pedal feel thanks to weighing a good bit less than half a ton.
What do manual brakes feel like on the 944, which is obviously much heavier? My S keeps getting lighter and lighter but it's probably never going to weigh much less than 2500lb or so. Are manual brakes viable for street use?
You can see the Tilton set up on a few of the bigger race builds on the 951 forum, Patrick and Tony G.
What is the purpose of installing a Tilton box? It's not a simple thing to do.
Due to lack of space at the firewall, we used a setup with a micro adjustable rod attached to the masters mounted on the forward fender well. We moved the fulcrum point on the brake pedal and reinforced it as well.
I've driven Formula SAE racers that had manual brakes but still had excellent stopping power and pedal feel thanks to weighing a good bit less than half a ton.
What do manual brakes feel like on the 944, which is obviously much heavier? My S keeps getting lighter and lighter but it's probably never going to weigh much less than 2500lb or so. Are manual brakes viable for street use?
Yes I've raced lightweight Shifter karts with Manual brakes and they are great!
But my cars around 2300lb's and I tried it on the street with my 6 piston front and 4 piston rear Wilwood calipers and the Servo disconnected
It was in one word "Scary" !
The pedal was so hard unyet had some movement but no matter how hard I pressed it the car was not slowing at all!
I've driven Formula SAE racers that had manual brakes but still had excellent stopping power and pedal feel thanks to weighing a good bit less than half a ton.
What do manual brakes feel like on the 944, which is obviously much heavier? My S keeps getting lighter and lighter but it's probably never going to weigh much less than 2500lb or so. Are manual brakes viable for street use?
with the stock 944 master cylinder it could be described as "simply terrible" or "pants-****ting" in case of panic stop.
conversely i've been pondering going up slightly in M/C bore but keeping the booster (very compact M/C) to make the pedal a little harder, and to get some space over there...
Well, don't forget a linkage system... We looked at several options, and think the fab work will be easier (and the end result simpler) to just go with manual brakes. This will be an endurance race car, so simplicity and reliability are paramount.
(sorry to steal your thread, Noah...)
Brother, you NEVER EVER have to apologize for posting **** like this on my thread Hot damn!
I installed a Tilton 3-pedal box in my 944. My brake booster had to go due to v8 engine conversion so I did manual masters on a pedal box with an aluminum plate bolted to the floor. The pedal box is bolted to the 3/8" plate with tapped holes. The plate is through-bolted to the floor and door sill. Makes for a nicely solid platform and great pedal feel. The cable throttle works via Tilton's rotating assembly. The dual brake masters drive M030 calipers and the clutch master the Chevy slave cylinder. It's all rather heavy and leg intensive but matches a manual steering rack well for track driving.
The biggest issue with all of this is the shape of the firewall. For master cylinder clearance, the pedals ended up about 4" rearward from original. This worked well for me as I'm 5' 7" and wanted to move my seat rearward anyway for helmet clearance to the halo of my roll cage. Anyone over 6' can't really drive my car anymore, though, as the seat reaches is rearmost position before they have adequate leg room.
02-26-2017, 06:07 PM
Anyone familiar with Tilton/Wilwood pedal box install?
Hot damn!
