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Mounting of the turbo.
Okay, I dunno how big the k26/6 oem 951 is, but this is a larger turbo.
I decided to make an angle iron bracket which will be welded to the "tri-tube" engine bracket.
There isn't any room to move. To position the turbo/air filter/exhaust pipe assembly before tack-welding in place I used knee pads to separate the assembly from the rest of the car.
Looking good, but are you sure about using nyloc nuts on the turbo? I've seen those melt out. You can get flex-top lock nuts and fuji nuts that would accomplish the same task without having a plastic material involved.
Looks good, but I wouldn't use the pipe flange to hang the turbo from.
Turbo is heavy, and maybe the weight will affect the gasket seal...
If you could make a bracket to attach to a few of the bolts that hold the turbine housing to the center section that'd be better.
Thank you Marc & Spencer for the support. I'm curious how the 951 turbo mounts. Also curious how the charge air cooler mounts. Neither will probably apply to Wilson.
Need to figure out if I'm keeping rad & a/c condenser in stock location or not.
This weekend was much slower progression than I hoped for because I'm busy paper-chasing & selling porsche stuff to help fund this project.
CHARGE AIR COOLER:
Wanted to explore all options of mounting. So dropped the front belly pan & got to work seeing if I can fit the 27.5"x2.5" cooler in front of the condenser. Look how dirty this car is!!! Rally type driving is so nasty on the cars.
It seemed like the best way to mount it is in front, but these bracket lips (for n/a dam?) seemed like they were in the way, so cut them off. Then a/c brackets were interfering, so no go. I eventually took the hint (without a/c this would have been perfect... the height was just right.
I also wanted to tilt the cond/rad/cooler in a "V MOUNT" configuration, but that would require removing the front crossmember and fabricate another crossmember.... though tempting, I declined (at this point in time).
Eventually I settled on a high horizontal mount under the nose with hoses existing next to the rectangular headlights.
My tool is only 60mm & the cooler pipe is 70mm, so will enlarge Monday or Tuesday.
With good knock control, or with good gas and a reasonable ignition table, you might be ok running stock internals. They'll tolerate 7psi no problem, 10 psi would make a very fun car. Doug and I have a few ignition tables for boosted 8v engines that you could apply....we have one buddy's 951 running 18psi with no knock using this table, with 2* added across the board because it's on E85.
Thought about it, but thought maybe I'd do more harm then good because kind of a ****ty angle to weld at. Is it recommended?
It doesn't matter now and you are right to keep the heat out of the weld and not just beat up the tubing. It depends on the fit up, in that a continuous bead on the ID in alternating stitches and stitch the OD with plenty of cooling in between. It doesn't sound like you could seat the tubing far enough into the flange to get a solid weld. Run it and see what happens. Best of luck and I like the trailblazing. Remember it is like building a house. You can get a house under roof quick, but all of the finishing and details add up.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts & ideas... I can use all the help I can get!
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Here is the god-like... incredible set up of Patrick's Australian beast. His car is what I often refer to as being about as good as they get.
Notice the turbo is angled differently than I chose to go, so of course that changes the routing for charge air & exhaust.
My "dream car" has charge air cooler extraction out the hood like he's done (with dam).
I had some good suggestions from Fast Eddie about creating spacers to push the rad rearward by a couple inches to free up space under the grill in a more conventional style as he did with his 924 turbo. I really like that idea, however it's not that easy with the late 944 whilst retaining a/c.
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I have re-visited the horizontal mounting near the engine tray idea (like the Callaway design). I thought this was my last resort, if all fails "this will work", but honestly I don't care for it (because it'll get dirty & plugged & I'll drop wrenches on it & with my present belly tray, the air flow won't be good. And plumbing to the turbo will suck.
My 3 options are: under nose panel. In front near rad. Horizontal.
Under nose panel
The good:
-Super short & nice routing from compressor horn to cooler.
-Stealth and protected under nose panel.
-Looks nice
The bad:
-Routing from the cooler to n/a throttle body sucks (because the upper rad hose is in the way & the angles of the throttle body & the cooler will make for nasty bends).
-Air flow is minimal, so not maximizing the cooling effect of the cooler.
The routing I'm dealing with:
I am considering all options for routing to the n/a throttle body.
It is not good for 2 reasons:
-3" opening is upward facing & I need the pipe to go down.
-The upper rad hose is in the path to the cooler. I'm thinking of making a tall spacer to allow the cooler to t.b. pipe to pass under. Or fabricate a 3" extension for the throttle body opening that play nicer with the rad hose/cooler hose.
OR JUST SAY... to heck with it I'm cutting the front crossmember & going v-mount!!
This is a close-up to show how I enlarged the holes from 2" to 2.5" (rather than grinding or cutting it larger to fit, I used small vise grips to very gradually bend the panel over & toched it up with a ball peen hammer). The flange stiffens the panel & there is less chance of cutting through the soft aluminum cooler in case of rubbing.
02-10-2017, 01:31 AM
