Early transaxle mounts - repair or replace?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Early transaxle mounts - repair or replace?
I found that my mounts were separated at the top - the portion of the rubber bush that is closest to the bolt into the chassis.
My first thought was to fill them with urethane or window weld, etc. But due to the nature of the failure, the filling would have to bond very well to the metal "frame" around the bush or it would simply happen again in a short period of time.
Has anyone attempted a repair on these? They're a little pricey brand new at $98/ea (cheapest I've found so far) so naturally I'm interested in a DIY fix. But if that's going to be more BS in the long run, then I guess it is what it is.
My first thought was to fill them with urethane or window weld, etc. But due to the nature of the failure, the filling would have to bond very well to the metal "frame" around the bush or it would simply happen again in a short period of time.
Has anyone attempted a repair on these? They're a little pricey brand new at $98/ea (cheapest I've found so far) so naturally I'm interested in a DIY fix. But if that's going to be more BS in the long run, then I guess it is what it is.
#2
Rennlist Member
I was considering doing the same thing. Where did you find them for 98.00 ea? were they new? I would also suggest that you inspect the Torsion Tube mount bushing, P/N 477-501-089 as well for delamination. I found some on Pelican, but I was wondering if anyone has the VW # for these parts. I've been scouring the "net" looking for a cross # to no avail. V2 Rocket says this rear end is out of a 1971 Super beetle..so something should be floating around in the VW world. Suggestions?
#4
Rennlist Member
That's what I did with mine..just filled 'em right up to the top of the metal frame...both sides..if I can get a year or two out of them before having to replace them..then I'm all set..longer...? who knows? some guys have put in some of the uber expensive all metal ones, but those are on race cars...where they need all the moxie they can get out of the platform..
#5
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Thread Starter
My issue with that is a lot of them seem to be failed in the same place. Is the bond strength of that urethane pretty good (to the metal frame)?
#6
Racer
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I think the bond strength is very strong but you need to be sure the alignment of the inner steel is ok. If you can find good used ones and firm them up with urethane so they can't fail in the future . The method of filling mounts transfers noise from the drivetrain so be aware of that .
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#8
I found that my mounts were separated at the top - the portion of the rubber bush that is closest to the bolt into the chassis.
My first thought was to fill them with urethane or window weld, etc. But due to the nature of the failure, the filling would have to bond very well to the metal "frame" around the bush or it would simply happen again in a short period of time.
Has anyone attempted a repair on these? They're a little pricey brand new at $98/ea (cheapest I've found so far) so naturally I'm interested in a DIY fix. But if that's going to be more BS in the long run, then I guess it is what it is.
My first thought was to fill them with urethane or window weld, etc. But due to the nature of the failure, the filling would have to bond very well to the metal "frame" around the bush or it would simply happen again in a short period of time.
Has anyone attempted a repair on these? They're a little pricey brand new at $98/ea (cheapest I've found so far) so naturally I'm interested in a DIY fix. But if that's going to be more BS in the long run, then I guess it is what it is.
When I ordered New Genuine Mounts, there was an option to have original spec or a Harder version, so I went for those.
I'm sure they should be available in the USA? this could be a good idea to go with new (and the harder) and curb the DIY habit which is not always the best long term solution.
R
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I looked at the cure time for urethane....7 days! FFS. I want to have the car back on the road ASAP and I don't really want to do the swap in the car. The last time I tried that, I rounded off a bolt because the only access was with a wrench. Had to use an extractor to remove it last night.
My "ideal" mounts are original, I can do without the extra NVH. It shifted fine even with them in the current condition. I'll probably end up crumbling and getting new OEM just so I don't have to deal with the potentially weak and harsh parts.
My "ideal" mounts are original, I can do without the extra NVH. It shifted fine even with them in the current condition. I'll probably end up crumbling and getting new OEM just so I don't have to deal with the potentially weak and harsh parts.
#10
Rainman
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Michael, if you have time perhaps a trip to the local pick a part is due...
You may find some late-model FWD car has engine mounts that are very similar shape/design to our transaxle mounts that might be adaptable...
You may find some late-model FWD car has engine mounts that are very similar shape/design to our transaxle mounts that might be adaptable...
#11
Rennlist Member
I discovered large cracks in the rubber of both mounts during my multi-month fuel tank experience and thought about a repair possibility. Then... Ah, screw it! I broke down, opened my wallet and shed a tear while ordering new Porsche units ($134.00/ea.). I must say that the new mounts made a noticeable difference in shifting and vibration (ok, the new motor mounts didn't hurt the situation) and I won't have to go back to that issue for a long time. JM2Cents...
#12
Rennlist Member
I like the metal plate idea, Spencer..also adds to the rigidity of the mount as well. You could aslo try Anchor engine mounts..The have a pretty extensive list...I have a book with pics..I'll check it out tomorrow..perhaps we can get new ones through AZ...not in the computer, though..been there, done that..
#15
Rennlist Member
I looked at mounts today on my computer at work. The ones for 71 Beetles aren't even close. The ones for 72-75 were different..but I don't think they will work either. Spencer..since you worked in a VDub shop, do you think that 411 mounts or some other model might work? Perhaps a wsalvage yard guy could look these up in a Hollander book...that's waaay too expensive for my blood even the downloadable versions are too pricey. Maybe the is a real Porsche part..and we just have to bite the bullet..perhaps an Audi p/n?