When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Odonnell, I wasn't talking about the spring clip.
I could be completely wrong, but these are my observations.
The pin and R clip seem to be holding the pad backing plate to the caliper, limiting outward movement. Shouldn't that pin be on the back side of the pad so as not to restrict pad movement? I may be an idiot and stuck in my thoughts though. see r clip between pad and caliper
Hey, I was trying to "gently" guide him to it...
I'm in the midst of sourcing some cores so I can go buy remans from the parts store for $37 each. Also, the aftermarket pads are cheaper for the Volvo than the '44, freakin P tax...
Ok, just got back into the swing of things and promptly sorted this out. Again, thanks to MG944 for pointing that out... for ****s sake, I feel like an idiot
Re-mounted the driver side rotor after wire-wheeling the hub surfaces, and it's finally free of runout. Everything is back on the car, and I'm pleased to report a firm pedal and great braking I'm still wearing off the break-in coating, so I'm taking it easy per the EBC instructions. But so far, the feel is tighter as you'd expect from a fixed caliper. I'll report back on braking capacity when I'm mostly through the break-in period (it seems that if you don't follow it for these pads, they squeal badly).
Ok, just got back into the swing of things and promptly sorted this out. Again, thanks to MG944 for pointing that out... for ****s sake, I feel like an idiot
Re-mounted the driver side rotor after wire-wheeling the hub surfaces, and it's finally free of runout. Everything is back on the car, and I'm pleased to report a firm pedal and great braking I'm still wearing off the break-in coating, so I'm taking it easy per the EBC instructions. But so far, the feel is tighter as you'd expect from a fixed caliper. I'll report back on braking capacity when I'm mostly through the break-in period (it seems that if you don't follow it for these pads, they squeal badly).
The "break in" compound is designed for when people fit NEW pads only and not new discs like you have.
The pad surface has a layer of a more abrasive material with cleans up old discs first before breaking into the pad's actual compound.
I'm not alone but EBC pads just don't seem to have much bite Green let alone RED but See how you get on, a lot depends on how hard you HIT the pedal which I've never been HARD on brakes so this doesn't help. !
After doing reading on the break in compound on these pads, the main objective is to bed them in to remove any manufacturing irregularities. That seems pretty standard. They're tapered so the contact area increases with miles. So far, they're quiet and work great.
Just wrapped up a few hours of driving around Houston to the zoo and back for their Christmas lights show. I figured city driving would accelerate break in. Overall impressions are that the car doesn't brake dramatically better, but like I said, feel is improved. It takes less pedal travel to achieve a desired clamping force which is expected. I can't comment on fade since I haven't done any hard braking but there should be improvements there as well due to the larger heat dispersion area.
Still kicking ***...been DDing the car except for a few days where I needed the 4runner's cargo capacity. I'm past the break in period and the pads grab a lot better than when I first installed them.
Weather today is the coldest it's been here in the last 10 months probably, and it's been raining on top of that. Brakes have been perfect, no squealing and grab great even with temp in the 20s (F).
My Take on the Volvo Swap...
Well after losing my right front wheel caliper rotor and all at 80mph on I-15 due to improper wheel bearing adjustment/failure.. "Amazing how stable and balanced the car is 80mph on 3 wheels took me a mile or so to get the car stopped. basically wore thru sway bar connecting link and sway bar no brakes." I decided to do the swap and after about 3 months of daily driving I have 49 mile drive each way.. pretty nice drive over the mountain in a car like the 944 along with the caliper swap I upgraded the the wheels to 17' from 2001 911 225's up front and 255's in the rear year I know that's a lot of tire but they came with the wheels car already had slotted and drilled rotors and steel braided lines. Car stops on a dime no fade nothing like coming around a blind corner and a herd of deer standing in the road or some fool in a pick up trying to be Colin McCray and halfway over the yellow line in your lane.
car brakes and turns great no brake fade from well over triple digit speed with no pull to either side well worth the money time and effort.. As to those who say I have too much tire for the car I'd say for the roads I drive It's a life saver the car doesn't make enough power to over power the tires in off camber turns...
11-29-2016, 02:53 PM
I'm still wearing off the break-in coating, so I'm taking it easy per the EBC instructions. But so far, the feel is tighter as you'd expect from a fixed caliper. I'll report back on braking capacity when I'm mostly through the break-in period (it seems that if you don't follow it for these pads, they squeal badly).
