When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My most recent project on the NA was to fit 4-piston front calipers. The stock brakes are sufficient, but an upgrade is an upgrade This guide will detail the steps needed to fit them.
You probably are interested in how much of an upgrade these are, compared to stock. In short, they feel better but overall aren't a silver bullet. By that, I mean it's not night and day - stock brakes on an NA are ok, but at the end of the day, these ARE better and are actually pretty inexpensive. The pedal is firmer and they work harder during intense braking. I've driven an NA with 951 front brakes, and the feel is similar. I would choose these over 951 brakes for ease of installation and price.
The calipers are lifted from a 90-93 Volvo 240. I got mine from Rock Auto, reman, for about $120 total. There are 2 versions of the 240 brakes.... ABS, and non-ABS. You want the ABS variant, as it's almost a direct bolt on part.
The part numbers for the front left: 3530538, 35305382, 5003754, 50037548
and front right: 3530539, 35305390, 5003755, 50037555
As far as brake pads, you can get whatever best fits your needs. I decided to splurge a little and get EBC Redstuff pads, part # DP3143C: www.ebay.com/itm/301870229598
You may also want to invest in some SS braided brake lines, if you haven't already. I can't guarantee that the stock lines will work (length is the concern here) but I CAN confirm that SS braided lines from our usual vendors will work perfectly. Note: the non-ABS calipers have 2 input ports. The ABS calipers only have 1. Obviously that's a big reason why the ABS calipers are the ones to get, so you don't have to mess with splitters and all.
Here are the calipers, painted up:
I'm a sucker for red calipers, some people may say it's rice or whatever....
The next order of business is removing your old calipers. Start by putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing the wheels, and cracking loose the 2-ea bolts that mount them to the spindle. You may find it easier to access them when you move the steering rack to full right or left lock, depending on the side. Also remove the brake line from the caliper at this time.
Now, go ahead and mock up the calipers so you can get an idea of what will need to be trimmed. Note that some calipers may come with mounting hardware - I've heard that the Volvo spindles have a different thread pitch, so you'll want to re-use your Porsche caliper mounting bolts. No issues.
In my case, the brake shields clashed slightly. In the photo below, you can see that the mounting ears overlapped with the shield, causing the shield to be pushed into the rotor in 2 places.
A quick buzz with the Dremel fixed that right up. You can also use snips or pliers to cut or bend them out of the way, it's pretty easy no matter what you do.
Now that the calipers can cleanly bolt up, snug the bolts down relatively tight and give the hub/rotor assembly a spin.
You probably hear a very light grinding...as though there's just a thousandth or two of contact between the caliper and the rotor's outer edge. Grab your Dremel (or whatever) equipped with a sanding drum, and slightly clearance this inner face:
It's about 30 seconds of sanding, nothing dramatic. This is the last modification you will be doing to ensure fitment
Now, thread in your brake line. It's a direct fit.
Being mindful of the angle of the brake line (it's coming off the opposite edge of the caliper relative to the stock ones), mount up the calipers and snug it down for the last time. Torque spec is 63 ft-lbs. Spin the hub to double check you have no grinding, repeating the grinding process until it's clear. It shouldn't take much.
Other side installed:
For installing the pads, you need the 2 slide pins, 2 R-clips (they're small), and the 2 spring clips for each caliper. The picture below shows me being a dumbass and putting the R-clips in FRONT of the pads which is wrong (see 3rd page of comments):
If you can't see, the spring clips are perpendicular to the pins. Their clip goes over the brake pad back plate. There are small holes in the pins, which you put the R-clips into. The 3rd or 4th page of this thread shows me being an idiot and a sharp reader finding my original mistake.
I also went ahead and replaced my brake fluid reservoir, to match my coolant tank Of course, you need to now bleed the brake system completely.
After bleeding, you're good to go! Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for pad break-in like always.
Good job mike, that makes 1 dedicated follower, this will be a winter project already sourced the parts for a decent price and will enjoy some extra braking power in the spring !
My most recent project on the NA was to fit 4-piston front calipers. The stock brakes are sufficient, but an upgrade is an upgrade This guide will detail the steps needed to fit them. The calipers are lifted from a 90-93 Volvo 240. I got mine from Rock Auto, reman, for about $120 total. There are 2 versions of the 240 brakes.... ABS, and non-ABS. You want the ABS variant, as it's almost a direct bolt on part. The part numbers for the front left: 3530538, 35305382, 5003754, 50037548 and front right: 3530539, 35305390, 5003755, 50037555 Here are links to the ones I bought: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....696&cc=1287097http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....695&cc=1287097 As far as brake pads, you can get whatever best fits your needs. I decided to splurge a little and get EBC Redstuff pads, part # DP3143C: www.ebay.com/itm/301870229598 You may also want to invest in some SS braided brake lines, if you haven't already. I can't guarantee that the stock lines will work (length is the concern here) but I CAN confirm that SS braided lines from our usual vendors will work perfectly. Note: the non-ABS calipers have 2 input ports. The ABS calipers only have 1. Obviously that's a big reason why the ABS calipers are the ones to get, so you don't have to mess with splitters and all. Here are the calipers, painted up: I'm a sucker for red calipers, some people may say it's rice or whatever.... The next order of business is removing your old calipers. Start by putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing the wheels, and cracking loose the 2-ea bolts that mount them to the spindle. You may find it easier to access them when you move the steering rack to full right or left lock, depending on the side. Also remove the brake line from the caliper at this time. Now, go ahead and mock up the calipers so you can get an idea of what will need to be trimmed. Note that some calipers may come with mounting hardware - I've heard that the Volvo spindles have a different thread pitch, so you'll want to re-use your Porsche caliper mounting bolts. No issues. In my case, the brake shields clashed slightly. In the photo below, you can see that the mounting ears overlapped with the shield, causing the shield to be pushed into the rotor in 2 places. A quick buzz with the Dremel fixed that right up. You can also use snips or pliers to cut or bend them out of the way, it's pretty easy no matter what you do. Now that the calipers can cleanly bolt up, snug the bolts down relatively tight and give the hub/rotor assembly a spin. You probably hear a very light grinding...as though there's just a thousandth or two of contact between the caliper and the rotor's outer edge. Grab your Dremel (or whatever) equipped with a sanding drum, and slightly clearance this inner face: It's about 30 seconds of sanding, nothing dramatic. This is the last modification you will be doing to ensure fitment Now, thread in your brake line. It's a direct fit. Being mindful of the angle of the brake line (it's coming off the opposite edge of the caliper relative to the stock ones), mount up the calipers and snug it down for the last time. Torque spec is 63 ft-lbs. Spin the hub to double check you have no grinding, repeating the grinding process until it's clear. It shouldn't take much. Other side installed: For installing the pads, you need the 2 slide pins, 2 R-clips (they're small), and the 2 spring clips for each caliper. Assembly looks like this: If you can't see, the spring clips are perpendicular to the pins. Their clip goes over the brake pad back plate. There are small holes in the pins, which you put the R-clips into. Zoom in to the pic if necessary. I also went ahead and replaced my brake fluid resorvoir, to match my coolant tank Of course, you need to now bleed the brake system completely. After bleeding, you're good to go! Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for pad break-in like always.
Is this for front and rear and does is matter early or late 944?
Sweet!
did you happen to take measurements of piston diameters?
looking forward to impressions...confirm these fit under 15" wheels?
Clearance seems to be fine under my 16" Fuchs, can't verify 15" wheels though. I didn't measure the pistons, but I read online that they're 38mm I think?
Originally Posted by chanothemekhanik
Is this for front and rear and does is matter early or late 944?
This is only the front brakes. Should work for all NA models.
Originally Posted by Ish_944
Great job, excellent write-up!
What about the rears?
Do you have any plans?
The easiest solution is probably to use 951 rear brakes, they bolt right on. Using 951 brakes up front requires 951 spindles, rotors, hubs, struts, etc. I'll probably leave my rears alone unless I happen across a great deal.
99% sure that the NA caliper bolt spacing is the same in the back as it is the front.
So might be able to fit some of these calipers on the back as well...
I don't have my 944 handy, Michael...please measure the rear caliper bolt spacing!
Might as well try to mock it up while you've got it apart...
Benefit is that these Volvo calipers are way easier to find and much cheaper than 951 stuff. Also 951 stuff is questionable in ability to rebuild them due to some NLA parts...
Who cares what they look like...they're calipers. If you really want you could get a stencil or some lettering made up to say PORSCHE or whatever.
99% sure that the NA caliper bolt spacing is the same in the back as it is the front.
So might be able to fit some of these calipers on the back as well...
I don't have my 944 handy, Michael...please measure the rear caliper bolt spacing!
Might as well try to mock it up while you've got it apart...
Wow, would that be ~300 for a 16-pot brake system? If it works well with the stock master cylinder...
Nice write-up! I completely forgot about having to trim the dust shields.
I have been running these Volvo calipers for about 2 years now with no issues. I even painted them red and used Redstuff pads too! I can confirm that they fit under 15" phone dials with no issues as that's the size I ran last winter.
so the stock 944NA calipers actually have the MOST piston area of all these options. (even though it is a single piston, the floating design effectively doubles piston area)
however the fixed type calipers (951 and Volvo) tend to have advantages in:
1) heat dissipation (due to material, mass, and general caliper design)
2) more even pad+rotor contact = more efficient braking and better pad wear
3) weight (if you've ever held a 944NA caliper and a 951 caliper at the same time, WOW)
Since the 944 NA and 951 have the same brake master cylinder, the caliper piston areas must have been kept similar to achieve similar pedal feel. What is nice is that we can see the Volvo calipers are almost identical in piston area to the later 951, but actually a little bit more than the 1986 951 brakes.
11-12-2016, 11:14 PM
Write-up: Budget 4-piston calipers for 944 NA
This guide will detail the steps needed to fit them.
