STILL looking for an engine block (dear god someone help me!)
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
STILL looking for an engine block (dear god someone help me!)
Well gentleman I'm zero for 5 now, my buddy generously offered me a spare engine block out of an 86 951 for me to rebuild for my own 951. Upon inspection, the bores were significantly more scored than we had both initially thought (especially on #4. The motor had a badly blown headgasket and seemed to have suffered from detonation for a prolonged period) so the block I thought was a sure bet is now out of the running as well. Does anyone anywhere in Central texas or really anywhere in maybe a 5-6 hour radius of south Austin have a decent 85.5+ engine block with clean cylinder walls? I've been trying to source a block for literally over a year now and have struck out 5 times so far. I'd also be interested in a lower mileage 951 short block if the cylinder walls were decent and the price was right. I see them for sale on ebay from time to time at reasonable prices (short blocks for 400-600 and bare blocks for 250-300) so I know they exist, but the nice ones are inevitably always on the other side of the country and local pickup only.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#4
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'd have run out of patience and had one of the blocks overbored for Wossners about 9 months ago, at that rate.
I bought a low miles 951 short block for $500 from OH and had it shipped cross country for about $160 maybe 6 months ago.
The deals are out there...is it really worth the hassle to try and rebuild one? Why not just get a lower miles runner?
I bought a low miles 951 short block for $500 from OH and had it shipped cross country for about $160 maybe 6 months ago.
The deals are out there...is it really worth the hassle to try and rebuild one? Why not just get a lower miles runner?
#5
Rennlist Member
I would say you've already got several good blocks to choose from. Just save your pennies and do new pistons and a sleeved or plated block. There won't be any doubts about what you're starting with at that point.
#6
Advanced
I am in the process of converting an auto trans to a manual(long story). I will pull the auto car drive train in Sept. The car had 186k on it and I bought it sight unseen for the chassis. Never tried to turn it over and I have No idea what the block looks like but you are welcome to it. I'm in SE Houston.
Bill
Bill
#7
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
I'd have run out of patience and had one of the blocks overbored for Wossners about 9 months ago, at that rate.
I bought a low miles 951 short block for $500 from OH and had it shipped cross country for about $160 maybe 6 months ago.
The deals are out there...is it really worth the hassle to try and rebuild one? Why not just get a lower miles runner?
I bought a low miles 951 short block for $500 from OH and had it shipped cross country for about $160 maybe 6 months ago.
The deals are out there...is it really worth the hassle to try and rebuild one? Why not just get a lower miles runner?
with shipping included, it came out to about half the cost of overboring + new wossners. Is it as good of a platform to build a motor on as a brand new freshly machined block? Of course not. The pistons and ring are not new either. I think it will be fine though, and I'll take the risk to save 500-600 dollars and more importantly my time and frustration. Current plan when it arrives is just a "quick and dirty refresh"; all new seals and gaskets + change rod bearings + new water pump + new belts and rollers + slap a rebuilt head on it and drop it in.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
For all the time involved in working on these cars+the not just desire, but NEED to build something with as close to new-car reliability as possible, going with as much new or 100% reconditioned is absolutely necessary. Of course, this attitude has a downside. After high school while everyone else went to collage or joined the military, I worked at an auto parts store, spending every dime I got for five years swapping a big block, four speed, and 12-bolt rear end into a ratty '70 Chevelle. But boy, when I finally got it going it was one fantastic driving car, with no problems what so ever.
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
I never wanted perfection. That day will come when/if I decide to revisit a stroker build. For now, I just wanted "good"; a running engine that I can expect to last 5+ years without issue. I think a refreshed 50k mile long block has strong potential to provide that.
#10
Rennlist Member
That block above is the one in my '86 951... PO swore up and down it was a great running daily before it lit up during errands.
We always hear about motors being ruined by spun bearings or snapped belts. Scored bores aren't ideal but just out of curiosity, how often do people decommission motors because of them?
We always hear about motors being ruined by spun bearings or snapped belts. Scored bores aren't ideal but just out of curiosity, how often do people decommission motors because of them?
#11
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
despite the scratches seen above which are usually caused by something going wrong, the alusil bores and the appropriate rings are very long lived and durable.
the block i bought has 64k miles - bores are perfect, i am not going to even bother pulling the pistons.
just rod bearings, seals, and install...
the block i bought has 64k miles - bores are perfect, i am not going to even bother pulling the pistons.
just rod bearings, seals, and install...
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
That block above is the one in my '86 951... PO swore up and down it was a great running daily before it lit up during errands.
We always hear about motors being ruined by spun bearings or snapped belts. Scored bores aren't ideal but just out of curiosity, how often do people decommission motors because of them?
We always hear about motors being ruined by spun bearings or snapped belts. Scored bores aren't ideal but just out of curiosity, how often do people decommission motors because of them?
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Pics of my new short block. 3 and 4 look perfect. I see a small mark on #1 and #2, they are not in focus so its hard to see but they look minor and I trust Josh that it is good to go. Hoping 6th time is the charm?!
#1
#2
#3
#4
#1
#2
#3
#4
#15
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
10-4. How did you manage to ship a 300 lb 48x40x36 pallet for 160 bucks Spencer? I need to arrange shipping from Josh, he has a forklift on his end and a "commercial address". Getting it delivered to another "commercial address without a lift gate or forklift", cheapest I am getting quoted is ~190 dollars; which I could swallow easy enough except I don't have a commercial address to ship it to. Shipping to my residential address is ~312. Josh gave me a great deal on the motor but I'm trying not to break the bank on shipping. This is going through uShip.com. freightquotes.com was even more expensive.