Wet sanding left dull patches, any way to repair or must repaint?
#1
Wet sanding left dull patches, any way to repair or must repaint?
I sprayed down my bike and since the parts were removed and they're oddly shaped unlike a car's flat surfaces I noticed a couple runs.
For the first time I wet sanded (sprayed water as sanding gently with fine sandpaper) and got the runs even with the rest.
However, when I look at the sanded area I notice it's dull (like it's been sanded, I know) compared to the surrounding areas that are shiney since they were untouched.
Anything I can do to restore the shine or better to just respray?
For the first time I wet sanded (sprayed water as sanding gently with fine sandpaper) and got the runs even with the rest.
However, when I look at the sanded area I notice it's dull (like it's been sanded, I know) compared to the surrounding areas that are shiney since they were untouched.
Anything I can do to restore the shine or better to just respray?
#3
Pretty simple. Did you clear coat the re spray? If you didn't then just buff and polish and it should match the rest. If there was a clear coat applied and you sanded thru it it will never look the same.
#4
#5
Should be okay, after all it has the NASCAR trade mark on it. If it doesn't work, a auto body supply house should be able to hook you up. I know you said you sanded with fine sand paper but I would use 1500 grid paper if you haven't done so already.
#7
Pro
Yeah, after you've done the final wet sanding with 2000 grit, give it a good buff with some cutting compound, and then polishing compound. The results can be spectacular. Here's my old car which I painted. This is after I wet sanded and polished the front, the rear is how it came straight off the gun.
And here's the rear during polishing. You can see the right side of the bumper has been wet sanded but not polished yet.
And here's the rear during polishing. You can see the right side of the bumper has been wet sanded but not polished yet.
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#8
Your going to have to use a polisher, and a rubbing compound, then a polish, and to make it glow likes it's wet a glaze,
I just did my doors after getting the car from paint the shop never wet sanded it so I did it and , I ended rubbing through the clear and into the paint, so bad that I had to re- shoot the doors, no problem though, got paint code went to NED'S IN CONCORD CA, and they put the exact color in a spray can, also purchase K1 acrylic clear, went home wet sanded entire door with 1200,1500,2000,3000,all wet sanded then taped off car and draped sheets over the rest of car, and shot the doors over, 1 entire can per door 2 cans clear per door.after first can of clear allow to cure 2days then wet sand wipe door dwn again and apply second can of clear, allow to cure another 2 days sand with the 3 steps mentioned earlier then compound polish and final glaze. Will send pics of my doors in the morning they look awesome. So don't worry if you go through the clear and into the paint as long as there is no bare metal or filler showing it can be done without a body shop. Good luck.
I just did my doors after getting the car from paint the shop never wet sanded it so I did it and , I ended rubbing through the clear and into the paint, so bad that I had to re- shoot the doors, no problem though, got paint code went to NED'S IN CONCORD CA, and they put the exact color in a spray can, also purchase K1 acrylic clear, went home wet sanded entire door with 1200,1500,2000,3000,all wet sanded then taped off car and draped sheets over the rest of car, and shot the doors over, 1 entire can per door 2 cans clear per door.after first can of clear allow to cure 2days then wet sand wipe door dwn again and apply second can of clear, allow to cure another 2 days sand with the 3 steps mentioned earlier then compound polish and final glaze. Will send pics of my doors in the morning they look awesome. So don't worry if you go through the clear and into the paint as long as there is no bare metal or filler showing it can be done without a body shop. Good luck.
#9
Rennlist Member
The materials to do this correctly are not cheap. You need 3 grades of paper and then at least 2 grades of compound/polish. A paint oriented store might sell single sheets of the paper but for the compound step you will be in for several bottles of stuff and the corresponding pads.
If the area is small, you might try buying one of those headlight polishing kits. They are about $30. The principles are exactly the same and the kits include everything you need to go from dull to shiny. Get the one that is designed to work with a handheld electric drill.
If the area is small, you might try buying one of those headlight polishing kits. They are about $30. The principles are exactly the same and the kits include everything you need to go from dull to shiny. Get the one that is designed to work with a handheld electric drill.
#10
Rennlist Member
Y'all know this is an 8-month old thread?