Noahs944

Sorry guys.

Situation: Okay, most people know I have fallen in love with driving on dirt with my 8v 944. The problem I am having is (when coming out of corners) not being able to spin my rear wheels fast enough when coming out of a 90 degree turn for example. I have been experimenting with the skandi flick in a 3 step process:

The "basic" variation being

1) steer close to the corner you wish to enter
2) steer opposite to that corner
2b-optional tapping of the brakes -wait for the body roll
3)steer back into the corner & throttle

(Ex: )

The problem, again is not being able to pick up speed/turn wheels fast enough at these lower rpms.

I think the problem is TWO things:

1) not enough momentum (driver slowing down too much)
2) AFM flap

------------


So I bring this up to get your opinion. I'm downsizing my extra parts & have spent money and energy to get 16v conversion stuff. Am I better off to build my 8v engine with MAF conversion or build 16v engine... at lower (3000-3500 rpm) will I really gain anything from the 16v?


Money is a factor.

Dougs951S

you wont pick up anything under 4k that a maf or standalone wont give to an 8v, for ess money and more simplicity. stick with the SOHC.

odonnell

Seconded. 16v is cool but you could spend less money and have a full standalone ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Scott at Team Harco

Drive faster!

thomasmryan

Lol)) I would throw money at a turning brake set up

V2Rocket

advance the cam.

Arominus

Airflow is airflow, I'm a big fan of the 16v, so I would say do the 16v since you already own the conversion parts and do the standalone from the start.

I drove a 16V 2.5 for a few years, it's faster everywhere vs an 8v 944. It comes on strong above 4K but even below that mark its making more power and torque.

PaulD_944S2

This isn't a question you can answer until you have driven a 16V 944 S2.

Period.

jhowell371

What Paul said.

Scott at Team Harco

Except for the fact that he probably does not have a 3.0 liter block. Given what he has stated, I would opt for the 16v conversion. That and more driving experience.

You may have thought I was kidding with my earlier comment. Trust me - I was not. When you learn how to use the whole road and carry momentum - then you are doing it right.

Youtube version...

fasteddie313

Looks like you are in too high of a gear to me.. Rev the nuts off of it man..

fasteddie313

Also from the looks of it from here Id be coming into that corner from way on the outside with enough speed to barely make the apex. When you get to the apex power out and countersteer as necessary..

When you start getting hard on the breaks coming into the corner blip the throttle and drop a gear..

Remember, sideways does not mean faster but sometimes faster means sideways..

Arominus

an older vid but valid for the thread on the 8v vs 16v question.

Noahs944

You guys are AWESOME. Loving the insight & comments.

Scott and Eddie, I agree... I think the biggest area or improvement is the driving. I've seen a Honda Civic destroy Corvettes & GTR Skylines in autocross.

The problem with driving on public roads... you know "practicing" is compromising the idea line for safety with other cars and hidden driveways and what not. Yesterday was really sweet. Small glimpes of improvement here and there. One of my most proud moments was yesterday with the gravel road snaked into a series of small esses & I was able to smear them all together.

Eddie, you make a good point with sideways is not always faster. I noticed at the last rally that I was trying skandi flicks under (dry conditions) where they might not be required... and I think I was loosing time compared to taking them like an autocross, but mid way through the long event it started pouring rain hard & then... magically that technique started to really show it's strength. So, could the trick be to "drive for the conditions"? Or is the ideal line ALWAYS the same?

Scott, I can't (sadly) open your wmv link with my mac. Maybe I'll try from my cell.

I know the the corners can be taken at higher speeds. Some times I have the ***** and sometimes I don't. This vid was pretty tame, but I thought demonstrated the technique I was trying to describe well. Eddie-good point... in a lower gear things would perhaps be better.

Scott, you are correct... the 3.0 litre is like my dream engine, but I have 3 2.5 litre cranks & blocks & it's where the smart money is. The expensive 3.0 just isn't in my cards & I think when I gain more skill, the 2.5 will be plenty.

Regarding getting the *** end coming around easier (for hairpins), someone expressed the concept of stiffening the *** end & increasing rear tire pressure. What do you think? Right now I just use Porsche's standard owner's manual pressures (29 psi rear & 36 psi front). Also stiffening the rear... hmmm, seems counter intuitive to removing the rear sway like I was considering. Would you remove the rear sway?

odonnell

Larger rear sway = more oversteer.