tempest411

Although you may not be able to do so with your equipment, would it be possible to make a dash pad? I think it might be possible to construct a metal trame, then in a two-step process, 'print' a foam core, then a vinyl top layer. Because the top surface needs to be both textured and elastic, I think this method of manufacturing lends itself well to this kind of part. Alternatively, a 3D printer capeable of doing metal might be able to make new molds from which to manufacture a part in the more conventional way.

As for the under-intake hose for the NA, aren't those still available new? I just bought one a few months ago.

nihil

Couldn't really wedge the TIC up under the intake manifold, but I was able to go for a quick drive a bit earlier. It got up to normal operating temps.

Without knowing the specific emissivity of all the materials in the engine bay the scale on the right is off, but ambient was ~60°F, so applying the scale between that and normal operating temps of the exhaust manifold should get it in the ballpark. I also didn't adjust the parallax so the overlay for visual->IR is a bit off on the close up shots.

KVDR

That is - AWESOME!

tempest411

Kinda reinforces the importance of making sure your fuel lines are in nothing less than perfect condition, doesn't it?

bonus12

WOW
awesome.
You can see why you don't want your intake cone where you sometimes see them. Stock air intake funnel seems to be doing a great job.

nihil

Despite looking super hot, notice the range on the scale changes from pic to pic. So white-hot in one image may be enough to set granite on fire, where white-hot in the next could barely keep a cup of tea warm. It's an auto scaling that lets you get the most detail out of your imaging. But yeah, you don't want leaky fuel under any circumstances.

Yes indeed. "Cold air intakes" are very rarely that. Even slightly restricted fresh air from outside the engine bay is generally better than no restriction sauna breathing. But you know, the stickers add enough of the HPs and torques to make up for it I'm sure.

951Dreams

That was my biggest take away too. Stock box does a great job giving you "cold air" no need for that other crap.

And Nihil... You have the COOLEST toys.

nihil

Shhhh! As far as the wife is concerned, these are -tools- that help me save money around the house and in the shop.

But yeah, I like toys

tempest411

Any thoughts as to whether a dashpad could be made via this method per my earlier post?

nihil

Anything is possible with enough time, effort, and money, but I don't see it working out how I imagine you're thinking it would.

If anything, printing a form and covering that with conventional material would probably be the most likely method of accomplishing this. That would also allow it to be printed in sections (necessary to fit on 99% of the printers out there).

KVDR

Tempest - thanks for the suggestion.

I agree with Nihil that current 3D printing technology is not a good fit for this - except for maybe creating molds/forms... and even then, I think a CNC router 'machining' a 3D mold out of laminated MDF would be faster/easier/cheaper.

For the most part, home 3D printers seem to be best used for creating parts no larger than 8" in any direction. It is more economical for complex and low production numbers vs injection molding.

I think it takes owning one and lots of trial and error to get a feel for what can be printed, what should be printed, and what is currently impossible.

The coolest thing about this technology is designing something in CAD, printing it in a few hours, touching and testing it, and then immediately revising the design and printing version 2. It allows for amazingly rapid development vs other technologies.

tempest411

Thank you for reply to my query. I would've thought the size of the part created would only be limited by the length of the rails the print head could traverse. They're actually able to 3D print whole houses now!

Van

Some sun visor clips.

KVDR

I've seen them 'print' with concrete - pretty neat, though I suspect that forms and re-bar is still faster and stronger than the printing layers.

The problem with printing larger things is that you need to use a larger nozzle to have a reasonable fill rate. You end up losing resolution and accuracy - so the final print will need secondary processes (sanding, machining, etc) and you lose a key benefit of printing in the first place - one process.

There's probably a commercial printer out there that can print a dash in a single piece with reasonable quality, but it won't be cheap. The overlay would still be a separate process.

KVDR

NICE! Can you share the design?

How do they feel compared to the OEM ones?

Is this ABS - does it have enough 'give'?

I think the semi-flex material would work extremely well for this.