3D Printing 924 & 944 Parts - Development and Discussion
#32
There really aren't too many good spots for a cup holder in this car, but it's better than spilling coffee on my ***** again.
This set of snap-in attachments is sized specifically for my regular small coffee cup from a cafe I frequent. Paracord tie-down to keep it snug.
This set of snap-in attachments is sized specifically for my regular small coffee cup from a cafe I frequent. Paracord tie-down to keep it snug.
#33
^ that's actually a really clever place to mount a cup holder. And good taste in beer
Another thing I was thinking could benefit from 3D printing reproduction is the oil pan 'baffle" in the oil pan. To clarify, the stock one, even NA cars have them... the PET calls them a sump insert and seems to be more or less NLA (some sources asking crazy money, if you can find one). Mine cracked as soon as I touched it. Maybe a new design with better baffling characteristics could be made? Happy to take measurements and do SW modeling if this is in demand at all besides my case.
Another thing I was thinking could benefit from 3D printing reproduction is the oil pan 'baffle" in the oil pan. To clarify, the stock one, even NA cars have them... the PET calls them a sump insert and seems to be more or less NLA (some sources asking crazy money, if you can find one). Mine cracked as soon as I touched it. Maybe a new design with better baffling characteristics could be made? Happy to take measurements and do SW modeling if this is in demand at all besides my case.
#34
From my experience, intakes are beyond the capabilities of home printers. Could maybe print non-functional prototypes for fit-up.
I was trying to print a replacement (turbo) air-box assembly and I eventually had to accept that the printed ABS material is not strong enough between layers for thin sections, and it felt brittle.
I also had REALLY bad warping/layer separation issues despite using a heated bed and printer enclosure maintained at ~39°C ambient temp inside.
I purchased polycarbonate ABS filament in an attempt for higher strength, but I've yet to use it as I think the economics, performance, and practicality of a printed air-box is a few years away. A $40k commercial printer might have better luck, but it won't produce a part costing less than a new OEM one.
First part modeled and printed. You can see layer separation at the geometry change.
3D scanning air-box lid for future attempts.
I also spent quite a bit of time looking under the hood for ways to improve on the stock turbo air-box, remove restrictions, etc. In my opinion, that thing is fully optimized for the given space/geometry.
I was trying to print a replacement (turbo) air-box assembly and I eventually had to accept that the printed ABS material is not strong enough between layers for thin sections, and it felt brittle.
I also had REALLY bad warping/layer separation issues despite using a heated bed and printer enclosure maintained at ~39°C ambient temp inside.
I purchased polycarbonate ABS filament in an attempt for higher strength, but I've yet to use it as I think the economics, performance, and practicality of a printed air-box is a few years away. A $40k commercial printer might have better luck, but it won't produce a part costing less than a new OEM one.
First part modeled and printed. You can see layer separation at the geometry change.
3D scanning air-box lid for future attempts.
I also spent quite a bit of time looking under the hood for ways to improve on the stock turbo air-box, remove restrictions, etc. In my opinion, that thing is fully optimized for the given space/geometry.
#35
I like! Much better location than the other ones I've seen. Clever use of existing hardware.
#36
I boiled the hose for about 15 minutes. It was unaffected by the heat - it seemed to maintain it's strength/elasticity/hardness at the elevated temp and appears unchanged afterwards. So that's about 212°F, which should be near the hottest temps experienced under the intake - right?
#37
#38
There are printers that can use dual filaments simultaneously, and one of them could be a different colour/translucent, but I doubt we could get a decent 'resolution' for the fine detail.
Would you guys be interested in a printed button that wasn't factory looking? Could then be any colour (or material).
#39
Another thing I was thinking could benefit from 3D printing reproduction is the oil pan 'baffle" in the oil pan. To clarify, the stock one, even NA cars have them... the PET calls them a sump insert and seems to be more or less NLA (some sources asking crazy money, if you can find one). Mine cracked as soon as I touched it. Maybe a new design with better baffling characteristics could be made? Happy to take measurements and do SW modeling if this is in demand at all besides my case.
#40
I boiled the hose for about 15 minutes. It was unaffected by the heat - it seemed to maintain it's strength/elasticity/hardness at the elevated temp and appears unchanged afterwards. So that's about 212°F, which should be near the hottest temps experienced under the intake - right?
#41
You'll need your build chamber at least twice that temp to manage the coefficient of thermal expansion of ABS on large surface area parts like that. This stuff drives me nuts. I like ABS as a material, but it can be a pain in the *** to work with at times.
#42
Printing a functional button should be easy - but it won't look factory, and the graphic would have to be a sticker (or embossed).
There are printers that can use dual filaments simultaneously, and one of them could be a different colour/translucent, but I doubt we could get a decent 'resolution' for the fine detail.
Would you guys be interested in a printed button that wasn't factory looking? Could then be any colour (or material).
There are printers that can use dual filaments simultaneously, and one of them could be a different colour/translucent, but I doubt we could get a decent 'resolution' for the fine detail.
Would you guys be interested in a printed button that wasn't factory looking? Could then be any colour (or material).
#43
I like ABS for small, thick parts. I prefer HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) for general printing. It's cheap, safer to print with (particles), and feels similar to ABS.
My FAVOURITE filament is semi-flex. It's extremely strong and has just enough flex so that it doesn't feel 'plasticy'. It would be ideal for snap-fit parts. It feels like you could print very firm suspension bushings out of it.
..I also have some nGen Colorfabb sitting here that needs to be tested.
Last edited by KVDR; 03-16-2016 at 01:32 PM. Reason: words
#44
I think a stereolithography printer such as the Form 2 would be better suited to such detail. I'd like to get one of these (or similar) next year if prices go down by half.
#45
...
I'll see if I can get out for a ride tomorrow evening. Where does this little hose go, just under the intake? I'll shoot the entire engine bay for context, but give particular attention to the area that part resides.
On an engine where the intake and exhaust are on different sides of the block, hitting 200°F+ under the intake would indicate you have bigger problems than melting a printed part. I'd be more concerned about longevity with exposure and heat cycling. I generally use ABS for engine bay parts since it's a known and tested industry material, haven't tried it with flex yet.
I'll see if I can get out for a ride tomorrow evening. Where does this little hose go, just under the intake? I'll shoot the entire engine bay for context, but give particular attention to the area that part resides.
On an engine where the intake and exhaust are on different sides of the block, hitting 200°F+ under the intake would indicate you have bigger problems than melting a printed part. I'd be more concerned about longevity with exposure and heat cycling. I generally use ABS for engine bay parts since it's a known and tested industry material, haven't tried it with flex yet.
Oh I agree that it shouldn't get hot there on an NA.... maybe I'm just paranoid because my Turbo which makes EVERYTHING HOT.
I expect the ninjaflex to perform just fine for heat cycling... *should* be better than rubber. I have several parts installed in my car now (bellhousing plugs, p-clamp liners, and evap lines), so I'll keep a close eye on these over the summer and will post updates periodically.