N/A AFM tune + Abuse + BHP predictions etc...
08-25-2016, 04:11 AM
#226
Still, my car doesn't (yet) feel like it's that strong. I hope I can get it properly tuned within a year. I wonder what power figure should I be expecting? Any guesses?
I also found it strange that he took it to the mapper after ~500 miles? I haven't even revved mine over 3000 in the first 1000 miles let alone do dyno runs for 8 hours
.
I didn't realise your car was up and running ?
Are you currently running it on a pre set AA map?,
What "Run In" Procedures did you do... and what Oils have you used so far?
Without a live map it won't be running that well at all until everything has been set perfectly.
R
08-25-2016, 04:47 AM
#227
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I didn't realise your car was up and running ?
Are you currently running it on a pre set AA map?,
What "Run In" Procedures did you do... and what Oils have you used so far?
Without a live map it won't be running that well at all until everything has been set perfectly.
R
Are you currently running it on a pre set AA map?,
What "Run In" Procedures did you do... and what Oils have you used so far?
Without a live map it won't be running that well at all until everything has been set perfectly.
R
I did:
1500 km max 3000 rpm then oil change
5000 km max 4500 rpm then oil change
I have 8000 km after this in the car, will be changing the oil after 10000 km from now on.
I use 5W50 Liqui Moly fully synthetic racing oil.
I agree that I need a good map. It's funny now at WOT, sometimes it pulls like a train for a split second then gets weaker then stronger again and this goes on.
Edit:
I think the torques is there, but so far it doesn't feel like it wants to rev like the stock engine. We'll see where it goes.
(Maybe I just haven't driven a stock NA for so long that I remember it stronger than it actually was. :B )
08-25-2016, 05:29 AM
#228
Yes, it is running since September last year, I have a thread about it. I have a base map from AA which we have slightly modified so that I do not run lean.
I did:
1500 km max 3000 rpm then oil change
5000 km max 4500 rpm then oil change
I have 8000 km after this in the car, will be changing the oil after 10000 km from now on.
I use 5W50 Liqui Moly fully synthetic racing oil.
I agree that I need a good map. It's funny now at WOT, sometimes it pulls like a train for a split second then gets weaker then stronger again and this goes on.
Edit:
I think the torques is there, but so far it doesn't feel like it wants to rev like the stock engine. We'll see where it goes.
(Maybe I just haven't driven a stock NA for so long that I remember it stronger than it actually was. :B )
I did:
1500 km max 3000 rpm then oil change
5000 km max 4500 rpm then oil change
I have 8000 km after this in the car, will be changing the oil after 10000 km from now on.
I use 5W50 Liqui Moly fully synthetic racing oil.
I agree that I need a good map. It's funny now at WOT, sometimes it pulls like a train for a split second then gets weaker then stronger again and this goes on.
Edit:
I think the torques is there, but so far it doesn't feel like it wants to rev like the stock engine. We'll see where it goes.
(Maybe I just haven't driven a stock NA for so long that I remember it stronger than it actually was. :B )
Ok I've briefly read your thread....
Did you fit new Pistons ?
Who recommended the run in procedure and Oil Viscosity?
Did you have the Crank balanced with the flywheel and ring gear..?
Were the rods and pistons also balanced?
Your total mileage is now over 15,000km ?
When are you getting the engine properly mapped?
R
08-25-2016, 05:40 AM
#229
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You never balance crank with flywheel because if you replace flywheel at any time, you need to balance crank again.
08-25-2016, 05:56 AM
#231
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Well, I got brand new rods from Pauter, those come balanced I think.
I also got new 4" Chevy pistons.
I bought a 3l crank from the UK which was so good that it can use standard bearings, hence I think there was no need to touch it at all. I'll check with my mechanic next time.
The flywheel was resurfaced, I expect that it gets balanced at the same time.
Yes, I have put quite some distance on the car but I think the engine is still changing, breaking in.
I don't have a date yet. First I need to replace the entire cooling system because it looses coolant, suck in air then pushes the coolant out when it gets real warm. :/
I have a company in mind already, I need to ask how much it is going to be. The hardest part will be getting permission from the fiancee, though.
I also got new 4" Chevy pistons.
I bought a 3l crank from the UK which was so good that it can use standard bearings, hence I think there was no need to touch it at all. I'll check with my mechanic next time.
The flywheel was resurfaced, I expect that it gets balanced at the same time.
Yes, I have put quite some distance on the car but I think the engine is still changing, breaking in.
I don't have a date yet. First I need to replace the entire cooling system because it looses coolant, suck in air then pushes the coolant out when it gets real warm. :/
I have a company in mind already, I need to ask how much it is going to be. The hardest part will be getting permission from the fiancee, though.
08-25-2016, 06:06 AM
#232
Well, I got brand new rods from Pauter, those come balanced I think.
I also got new 4" Chevy pistons.
I bought a 3l crank from the UK which was so good that it can use standard bearings, hence I think there was no need to touch it at all. I'll check with my mechanic next time.
The flywheel was resurfaced, I expect that it gets balanced at the same time.
Yes, I have put quite some distance on the car but I think the engine is still changing, breaking in.
I don't have a date yet. First I need to replace the entire cooling system because it looses coolant, suck in air then pushes the coolant out when it gets real warm. :/
I have a company in mind already, I need to ask how much it is going to be. The hardest part will be getting permission from the fiancee, though.
I also got new 4" Chevy pistons.
I bought a 3l crank from the UK which was so good that it can use standard bearings, hence I think there was no need to touch it at all. I'll check with my mechanic next time.
The flywheel was resurfaced, I expect that it gets balanced at the same time.
Yes, I have put quite some distance on the car but I think the engine is still changing, breaking in.
I don't have a date yet. First I need to replace the entire cooling system because it looses coolant, suck in air then pushes the coolant out when it gets real warm. :/
I have a company in mind already, I need to ask how much it is going to be. The hardest part will be getting permission from the fiancee, though.
You def need to sort the Cooling system out Pronto....
Oh it's difficult to not sound negative but there's a lot of things here which sound like they could of, and should of been done and checked for better results.
Re: you think, you'll check, and I expect etc...
Chevy pistons , what happened here..?
Where the originals no good / damaged or ?
You have a company in your country you mean who should be able
to map the augment system?
I see you had Mike Lindsey sort you the Rods...his advice to me for breaking the engine in and the Oil viscosities required was dramatically different to what you've done...
I'm guessing you went with someone else's advice or you own ideas?
R
08-25-2016, 06:28 AM
#233
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You def need to sort the Cooling system out Pronto....
Oh it's difficult to not sound negative but there's a lot of things here which sound like they could of, and should of been done and checked for better results.
Re: you think, you'll check, and I expect etc...
Chevy pistons , what happened here..?
Where the originals no good / damaged or ?
You have a company in your country you mean who should be able
to map the augment system?
I see you had Mike Lindsey sort you the Rods...his advice to me for breaking the engine in and the Oil viscosities required was dramatically different to what you've done...
I'm guessing you went with someone else's advice or you own ideas?
R
Oh it's difficult to not sound negative but there's a lot of things here which sound like they could of, and should of been done and checked for better results.
Re: you think, you'll check, and I expect etc...
Chevy pistons , what happened here..?
Where the originals no good / damaged or ?
You have a company in your country you mean who should be able
to map the augment system?
I see you had Mike Lindsey sort you the Rods...his advice to me for breaking the engine in and the Oil viscosities required was dramatically different to what you've done...
I'm guessing you went with someone else's advice or you own ideas?
R
I went with what my engine builder suggested.
Edit:
Anyone can map the AA system on a rolling road, you just need a laptop with bluetooth or usb to connect to it. The 3D mapping software is also provided by AA.
08-25-2016, 06:51 AM
#234
I had the block dry-sleeved with iron sleeves. The I used cheap Chevy pistons.
I went with what my engine builder suggested.
Edit:
Anyone can map the AA system on a rolling road, you just need a laptop with bluetooth or usb to connect to it. The 3D mapping software is also provided by AA.
I went with what my engine builder suggested.
Edit:
Anyone can map the AA system on a rolling road, you just need a laptop with bluetooth or usb to connect to it. The 3D mapping software is also provided by AA.
Ok fair enough on the pistons I understand,
Yes anyone can and many do remapping but from the selection in the UK and my research the results, customer service and expertise varies.
Back to running in and the Oil.........it may be different then ? for Steel liners, compared to silicone impregnated aluminium.
I was advised to use specific Running in Oil for 150 miles, then low detergent Mineral 20W50 up to 500 miles.
Mike told me to NOT ***** foot but "load" the engine and not go over 5000rpm whilst running in, also to not use fully synthetic until 3000+miles.
I used Millers Competition Running in OIL
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automot...tor=Motorsport
Then Motul Classic 20W50
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6516-mot...ngine-oil.aspx
R
08-25-2016, 08:51 AM
#235
WOW!!!,
What a thread, just read it from the beginning, was like watching a good movie, it had conflict, human emotions, bad guy turns out to be good guy, one good guy becomes bad, other two good guys become friends with original bad guy, All it needs is a love interest but I guess that's your car.
Seriously, great achievement and major food for thought as to what is the best way to "tune" these cars.
Steve
What a thread, just read it from the beginning, was like watching a good movie, it had conflict, human emotions, bad guy turns out to be good guy, one good guy becomes bad, other two good guys become friends with original bad guy, All it needs is a love interest but I guess that's your car.
Seriously, great achievement and major food for thought as to what is the best way to "tune" these cars.
Steve
08-25-2016, 10:52 AM
#240
Hmmm I wouldn't say a 31 year box of circuit boards was hardly an exciting experience, but the intention once the engine was built, installed, and fired was to use all stock electronics and see how it ran on the Rolling Road...
On Reflection of the time I've spent on this entire car (3.5 Years) I collected it on a Friday, did 500 miles over that weekend.....and then had it mapped on the Tuesday.
It behaved itself, didn't cause any starting issues, smoke or poor running although it felt rich (The throttle required holding for the rpm to increase, too much opening and it sounded boggy)
But after the 8+ hours tune, it was just a perfect faultless drive home.
The idle now did just that, the throttle response was much crisper and the way the torque responded in any gear from any rpm doesn't allow me to criticise anything about it...Oh and the 205 figures in bhp/ torque was a pleasant shock..
In a relatively short space of time this engine has been run, mapped and wants for nothing.
Now I need to sort the Suspension out and several other little details..
with too much noise mostly and some covers for the fuel pump / Hydraulic handbrake / Lower engine tray & Combined front splitter and a strong method of fixing the rear lexan window as it vibrates too much and bulges inwards at 75mph+ with the window down.
R