Can anyone show me a cheap valve spring compressor that fits an 8v head?
#1
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 8
From: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Can anyone show me a cheap valve spring compressor that fits an 8v head?
Just tried to remove valve springs with a $20 dollar autozone "universal" spring compressor only to realize that it wasn't going to happen.
Can someone recommend me a cheap tool or an effective DIY method to remove the springs with the head out of the car and on a bench?
Thanks!
Can someone recommend me a cheap tool or an effective DIY method to remove the springs with the head out of the car and on a bench?
Thanks!
#2
I have used this successfully with the head on the bench. The first time I used it I bent a valve guide seal ... you need to handle it like a dog on a leash or you can mess up the guide seal. I recommend getting a couple of extra seals "Just in case".
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...or/A-p8003725e
Final note: this tool works really well, but needs to be dialed in EXACTLY RIGHT... which is intuitive. And although you don't have princess auto in the states, I'm sure this is a knock off, so it's probably a popular design that can be found easily.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...or/A-p8003725e
Final note: this tool works really well, but needs to be dialed in EXACTLY RIGHT... which is intuitive. And although you don't have princess auto in the states, I'm sure this is a knock off, so it's probably a popular design that can be found easily.
#3
Doug..You need a "C" type valve spring compressor. The one at AZ won't work. check out Harbor freight or Sears. I know for a fact that Sears has them..Might have to order it though. Hope this helps some.
#4
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,602
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From: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
What about just taking a piece of flat steel and drilling it to bolt to the head, then cutting a notch in it to fit the valve stem and compressing the spring by torquing the piece of steel down? The springs sit a good bit proud of the deck surface so if you compressed the top hats flush, that should give plenty of room to remove the keepers.
Will 1/2" be thick enough not to flex with the notch cut in it?
Will 1/2" be thick enough not to flex with the notch cut in it?
#5
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 8
From: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
Biggest question is, will the spring compress or will the aluminum threads in the head strip first? What kind of spring rates are we dealing with on factory 951 valve springs, isn't it around 140 lbs seat pressure and something like 250 fully compressed?
#7
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
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#8
Dear Doug..Your idea would work, but I think that the torque spec on an 8mm bolt/thread is lower than the valve spring pressure. If it were in steel instead of aluminum, I'd say go for it..However I think I'd be on the safe side and say no-go since they are in Aluminum. Sears gets about 30-40 bucks for a c type valve spring compressor If I remember well. Sometimes a rental agency has one, that rents out all kinds of tools, like floor buffers , ladders etc. Which may keep your costs down. Maybe Odonell will split the cost of a compressor with you...??
#9
I agree with Tiger. The design Doug has in mind (I think) is used by Cummins on the 4 valve engines & is slick. My personal experience with the cam housing threads is to be gentle or it'll come back to bite you ($).
#10
You can use the cheap autozone compressors it just takes way more effort and you have you be able to use your body weight to help. I just did it and I would strongly suggest using the proper tools instead.
#11
Something like this one will work well:
#12
The best one is the one the cylinder head shop uses....
Unless you have a defective valve seal on a recently rebuilt head, I see no reason why valve guides shouldn't be replaced if the head is coming apart.
Unless you have a defective valve seal on a recently rebuilt head, I see no reason why valve guides shouldn't be replaced if the head is coming apart.
#13
#15
No, I didn't read properly he had a home welded tool with I think one or two hinges and a long handle. He bolted it to one hole and pressed on the spring with handle. It worked great.
I wouldn't compress springs with head bolts, this method just calls for problems.
Something similar to this only much less complicated and bolted directly to the head. This solution below I stole from another forum is not bad either.
I wouldn't compress springs with head bolts, this method just calls for problems.
Something similar to this only much less complicated and bolted directly to the head. This solution below I stole from another forum is not bad either.
Last edited by Voith; 12-29-2015 at 01:22 PM.