When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
he meant a 951 motor. A decent 951 motor is 2k + you'll need a bunch of other parts. All in, there is no real way you'd be able to turbo an N/A car for less than 4-5k MINIMUM. You'll have 4k+ just getting a used motor and transmission alone. More realistic is a 6k-7k budget it your lucky, which as you'll notice is the admission cost to a cheap 951...you do the math. Buy a 951. Copy and pasted from a post I made almost 2 years ago... It's much easier (and much more power potential) to just do a proper 951 engine swap. I've got a 951 swapped 944S, PM me if you want more details on the build and the process ie whats needed and such. Its a much more involved process than you probably think. By the time you assemble all the parts to properly turbo your high-comp N/A motor you'll be out as much money as a 951 swap and it will make less power. The basic gist of it is this: you'll need at a minimum (I'm sure i'm going to leave a few things out) 951 header 951 crossover 951 downpipe a KKK turbo 951 driver side motor mount 951 oil pan and oil pickup 951 upper balance shaft housing (pain to swap because its machined to the block, required because its also the oil feed for the turbo) all the water crossover stuff to properly run water to the turbo 951 injectors 951 DME 951 AFM 951 engine harness 951 fuel rail 951 intake 951 AOS 951 intercooler and boost pipes a new fuel pressure regulator a wastegate 951 BOV a boost controller 951 throttle body 951 TPS a new DP-back exhaust unless you want to strangle the motor with the restrictive (for a turbo) factory N/A pieces After all that you'll be as fast (maybe) as a stock 951 because the stock N/A clutch wont take much more than stock 951 power levels. If you want more power, you need additional parts such as: 951 bellhousing 951 clutch components (fork, PP, clutch disk, ect) a 951 trans is a really good idea, the n/a diffs are made of glass a way to tune the damn thing boost/vac and AFR gauges are pretty much a must wider wheels so you are not constantly if you're running more than ~10ish lbs on an n/a motor you better be running E85. to do that correctly you'll need: Bigger, non factory injectors a chip designed for E85, or preferably a MAF or stand alone ecu new fuel lines are a great idea oh yeah and after all that you start making some power, you'll realize the stock n/a brakes leave a lot to be desired I'm just touching the tip of the iceberg, its a slippery slope, hence the common "sell the NA and buy a turbo" comments here. And all that was just talking about turboing an NA 944, you'll need even more parts + work to get a 951 motor into a 924 and some things that were optional on an NA will be required on a 924. Example, you'll NEED to upgrade the suspension and brakes. Also, don't take this wrong but you seem kind of young and inexperienced/don't really know what you're doing. I honestly think a project of this caliber is over your head. We were all there once, so I'm not ragging on you but this sort of project is for someone with a lot more experience than you seem to have. It's substantially more work than you realize, ask me how I know..
well it already has the 951 teams and full suspension system. If that really makes any difference
I want to come back and emphasize again just how enormous one of these motors is.
I actually went to inspect one last weekend that was pulled out of a car, and to load it into another Rennlister's truck as I am taking some parts from it, for experimentation...
In my opinion if you are set on V8 power, there is simply no other option...MORE power, WAY MORE reliability, WAY more parts availability and selection, WAY less work, ect, ect. Again in my very humble opinion, an engine like the LSx series motors is the engine the 944 should have had from the start. A dead nuts reliable, chain driven cam-in-block V8 with great flowing heads that's compact and light for it's power output and has stump pulling torque off idle, all while still delivering very acceptable fuel mileage.
the picture above is a 16v engine. the 32v engine has a much shorter intake manifold... and at least according to the tape measure, yea, it should fit. whether the steering or brakes work afterwards is another project
oh-oh i just noticed that engine support..is that all there is on one side? that pipe with some small flanges on the end? i'd put some rubber somewhere...just for vibration if not for fatigue and load.
12-11-2015, 11:29 AM
