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Dear Noah: On many cars the tube from the manifold or front pipe that goes to the engine is to run the EGR valve. since you have the CIS injection system, I would recommend that you get a BOSCH Fuel Injection book, if you don't have one already. It covers all the types of CIS injection systems. Amazon has it for about 30 USD. Has a blue cover with a big circle on the front. Hope this helps some. BTW, If you don't need the EGR valve to pass your safety/emissions checks I'd dump it and put on a block off plate...If they stick open it causes a huge vacuum leak..just my .02 cents.
Last edited by Tiger03447; 01-06-2016 at 02:02 PM.
Reason: word spacing
Noah - Just wondering, did you ever get a return call from the seller (your post #38)?
Yes, believe it or not... a lot of talk justifying his not giving me a refund or even paying for a tow to get the car off the road. Then he texted me saying he found a bunch of parts and will send them to me, so I gave him my work address & he never sent nothing... I think he wanted info on me for the police or his family in case he disappeared. Good call on his part.
I have been thinking of driving by his work some time this summer & just having a chat with his manager. But in the end, what good would it do.
Dear Noah: On many cars the tube from the manifold or front pipe that goes to the engine is to run the EGR valve. since you have the CIS injection system, I would recommend that you get a BOSCH Fuel Injection book, if you don't have one already. It covers all the types of CIS injection systems. Amazon has it for about 30 USD. Has a blue cover with a big circle on the front. Hope this helps some. BTW, If you don't need the EGR valve to pass your safety/emissions checks I'd dump it and put on a block off plate...If they stick open it causes a huge vacuum leak..just my .02 cents.
So, the CIS doesn't read this oxygen to help manage A/F ration like a conventional O2 sensor? Plugging it at the engine is ok? I will look into the book. Thanks.
Really really happy with how snug I was able to get this. Design inspired by Michael O. Mine is much more crude, but I still think very functional.
This is the 4 speed shift rod. I was going to use the good 5 speed rod with the 4 speed trans because the 4 speed rod was worn to the extreme. But the lengths of these rods are different so that wasn't an option. But some careful bastard file work on the bench vise made a shifting mech that is within NEW car specs & it didn't cost anything.
GRAMPS SCORES!
----but first, my shifter mod sucked because too big, it hit the body, plus I didn't like altering factory on this car. It was just to get me on the road & driving... but now it's been replaced with the used shifter from local Power Tryp, which is much lower profile. In the following picture you'll see I've flipped it to try and gain clearance... but I am grinding the body to get it into reverse. I have attempted to adjust the linkage at trans, but no improvement. I have moved the shifter mount on the TT over as much as reasonable. The great news is I have a very smooth & nice moving shifter in 1-4 gears, but the bad is no body clearance for 5th & also the shifter pattern all is centre & to the left; the movement of the shifter as you row through the gears is not distributed evenly over the span of the shifter cavity within the body, and that doesn't seem right.
And then it occurred to me. The seller told me it has new trans mounts. I had a hell of a time mounting the trans to the body crossmember. So I took a look and sure enough, he had swapped left & right... completely reversing the offset trans mounts. Now I just have to switch them & see if the theory is correct!
It's too late now but for the shifter mod, it's a tight fit...you gotta use a M10x50mm bolt and a single locknut, and maybe buzz it down to 48mm long (I had to). You tried adjusting the arm the connects the linkage to the opposite side of the transaxle, right? It has rubber bushings on each end.
So I am not as smart as I thought I was. The trans mounts can't be flipped (tried last night). Also observed the neutral "resting" position of the TT is aligned with the mounts as they were yesturday.
Is there an adjustment on the transmission that will allow me to move the shifter motion towards the right?
You tried adjusting the arm the connects the linkage to the opposite side of the transaxle, right? It has rubber bushings on each end.
Are you referring to the fastener that sits in the slot, where you can adjust is left or right? (13mm on front side & 17 or 19mm on the back side) I adjusted that and it doesn't really help.
Well, good news. Last minute too, because I was about to go to the dark side *5 speed*... but some research in the Haynes manual shed some light (Haynes... which I am sorely disappointed in for the 944, is VERY graphic in the transmission department for the 924.... side note: there appear to be 2 different 924 Haynes Manuals. Both came with Gramps, one is about 25% bigger than the other.
Anyway, I followed the step by step instructions, and in the process realized the "bellcrank" for lack of a better term, "A" in the photo above was not rotated back 5 degrees as it should be. Easy error to make, there is no indicators, grooves, keys, slots to index it on the early 4 speed. (note: photo -courtesy http://only944.com/partscatalog/only/shortshifter/ . I have their short shifter in my 944- it's excellent!)
Now Gramps & I can move on. C'mon! lets get Ol' Gramps MOVING again!
01-06-2016, 02:01 PM
