shakazulu720

hello all just a quick Public service announcement and relatively scary development in my brake bleeding adventures









that what was in my brake system, it looks like used motor oil and it sat for god knows how long, there is shiny new ATE super blue in there now but I know some of your brake systems are just as bad so flush your brake system everybody

PS: does anybody have one of those fancy water-content-in-oil meters they can run up to WI I would love to see how much water is in here

Karl_W944

I'm gonna be doing that when I change out my pads. Exactly how do you drain the brake system? from the reservoir in the engine bay? Just pop the lid, and remove fluid as you apply pressure via brake pedal?

67King

Do yourself a favor, and replace the reservoir. It is likely coated with black gunk. New fluid will eventually break it loose. And when it does, it may decide to make your brakes not work at a very inopportune time. Such as going into Turn 1 at Road Atlanta.

Jfrahm

If your fluid is gunky and horrible, it's important not to put the brake pedal to the floor when pumping fluid, the crud on your master cylinder piston (outside the range of normal travel) can wreck the seals in the MC and you then cannot get a firm pedal again. A block of wood under the pedal is a good way to avoid having it go to the floor.

I use a pressure bleeder to change brake fluid but always pump the pedal for a conventional bleed at least once or twice for each corner.

Yes, change that brake fluid. Seized calipers or a corroded ABS pump cost a lot more than a few bottles of brake fluid.

-Joel.

shakazulu720

+1 to the reservoir change, going to get one on order with more brake fluid when I get home, the one I have now is filled with gunk and I need more fluid to bleed the clutch master and slave.
I also used a pressure bleeder/ pump brakes method

two questions
#1
on the rear drivers side caliper the connection from hard line to soft line on the caliper side leaked, I tightened it down and the leak seemed to stop should i throw on a new hard line and SS brake line or not bother

#2 there was a small amount of rust on the brake booster ( ill throw up a picture when i get home) is this a problem?

HICKS

Suck out old fluid with a turkey baster, or that red thing Arnnworx sells, of HF, and buy a Motive Power Bleeder, black label.

HICKS

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...0#.VVIAZflVhHw

FastHackem

I just changed mine about a month ago when I installed SS brake lines by using the baster & syringe to remove, and the Motive to replace. FYI my fluid looked exactly like your pictures and I know it had been sitting in there since 1999, mind you, the car hasn't moved more than 5 miles since then either, LOL.

yorkee

isnt that there is a filter thingy in the reservoir?

For my last fluid change, that filter caught the muddy substance and keep the fluid relatively liquid.

I bleed it every couple of years. If I ever track the car I will bleed it every season. especially when there is enough track type of hard braking that generate enough heat to vaporize the fluid...