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Noah -
Howabout picking up 3 more "spare wheels" and using those as your rally wheels?
Surely the steel will hold up better to abuse than an alloy (bend vs crack).
You'd have to run a narrower tire but that doesn't matter a whole lot on gravel/mud, does it?
+1 on the spare wheels...but i think they are only 5.5" wide.
I use Yokohama A035 195/60 15 on my rally cross car. .
For Wilson I would go for 205/65 15 on cookie cutters. The taller tire will prevent the rim from breaking. And it is always nice with some ground clearance. Taller tires will also grip the dirt better, and make the ride softer
Pano had a great story about a Rally 911 a few issues back. I don't remember a lot of details, but I'd bet there were some good build ideas in there for a Rally P-car.
Don't know if he talked about the tires, but they were pretty wild.
Well, a week ago we did our 2nd rally with Wilson the Great. The shocks and structs were brand new. Look at them after just 2 kms of gravel road:
I'm going to build gravel deflectors
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Also my clutch pedal started sticking to the floor mid rally so we decided to book it home. Weird since I replaced the master & slave about a year ago. This time I rebuilt the slave & replaced the master. Had a HELL of a time bleeding it, but eventually I bled it with the "one man bleeder" held higher than the slave. But then I had excessive free play (2") that I couldn't reduce.
Determined the Autocross practice day was in the cards. Really wanted to try pushing my limit with my first ever set of summer tires. After driving to the location (1.5 hrs on the road) the 2" freeplay was reduced to nothing & then I was able to adjust perfectly on the track.
On someone else's threat I mentioned what I have found to be the requirements or should I say the observed differences in the 944 S 16v 2.5 engine compared to the standard 8 valve. Here are is the list of differences that I have observed thus far: Considerations:
Speedometer reading is late model
Coolant piping & hoses & maybe some Heater hoses are different (I got mine from 944Online.com)
S uses 2 knock sensors on the block & 87/88 (89?) block is ideal
Pistons are different (2 different tolerance series were used -make sure these match)
The timing belt is wider than 8 valve, so the tensioner pulley & crank & cam pulleys are wider than 8
Timing cover is different than 8 valve
Fuel lines are different
Fuel regulator & dampener and rail & injectors are different
ECM is different/engine harness is too
AFM & Throttle body & air box & all the ducting in
between is different
Spark plug wires & distributor is different
Flywheel is different
AOS is different
Sensors (such as Hall effect) are different on engine
Pressure plate is different (but I suspect the 8 valve is just ok)
Exhaust manifold (and rest of exhaust is different)
Valves & guides & seals in the head are different (I got mine from 944Online.com)
Instrument cluster are different
Magnesium front & rear spark distributor housing is different (I got mines from 944online.com)
Trannies are different, but the 8 v should just be ok
Intake mani & gasket are different
Throttle cable is different (might be NLA)
The spark ignition is different (the S uses a spark ign module where as the 8 doesn't) and it needs some wires spliced into the chassis harness, and this is where you *may* be better off with a late model chassis - for this reason & the speedo pick up(I don't know)
GOOD NEWS: The master cylinder replacement enabled me to find the location of the 14 pin connector required for the 16v engine electronics. I have looked and looked for this and finally stopped looking out of frustration. Here is a reference photo for anyone silly enough to convert (like me!). This really made my day
More baby steps for Wilson. Pressurizing the cab to keep dust out. This came in the mail today. Woohoo! It's lightweight aluminum & very very good construction.
Small note on the intake. Not a permanent fix but a quick solution to help minimize water for coming into the engine after splashing off the nose. It's just another afm boot attached to the front end of the air box.
Updating on my EARLY 944 Strut to LATE 944 by simply opening up the top early strut holes & then making simple shims for each side (1mm thick steel or alloy with 2 holes to match the strut mounting bolt holes. So far so good. 1 rally (no jumps) and 1 auto cross & some general driving around. The car has stayed aligned & no one has died. The struts weigh about the same as the new late models but now I can replace just the inners. Very happy. "FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BRAVE".
Also: I learned a lot from this video, maybe you will too:
Had the best time ever yesturday. The car handles so well. Planted yet comfortable. This car feels like an absolute beast now that I spend most my time driving the 924. I REALLY enjoyed the 944. Drive through the mountains. No one around. Hit top speed in the mountain range with my new summer tires. Excellent braking. Then decided to feel the traction with summer tires on gravel. Took the usual run into this place:
Wilson is back. Feels crazy crazy good to say that. Got the "baller on a budget" GT conversion with some sweet LED headlights in. Got my turbo drainage issues fixed. Last night I drove about 60 miles... and stomped on it a few times. This car sounds nasty (but in a good way). Got a taste of 6 pounds boost so far. If anyone has any SUCCESSFUL tuning maps, hook a brother up would ya (Michael?)
Got permission to bring Wilson in the shop to charge the A/C. But found the compressor clutch isn't engaging & the heater blows hot. When I press the AC button the voltmeter doesn't drop (like it used to when the clutch engaged), so need to troubleshoot. Was hoping to maybe take the car on a 9 hour road trip for mothers day this weekend, but can't if its blowing heat.
Also. HOLY SH***** I experienced 12 lbs of boost! Which I dunno might be like 15 lbs with a stock 944 turbo. So that means the Greddy controller responds to my input & the system works. The car just pulls, but then when I go 3/4-WOT I get possibly detonation and the knock sensor de-rates the engine or external waste-gate "screamer pipe" opening... I have no idea what is going on, because if feels like I hit a wall but it's below the 6750 fuel cut, and I can felt a jolt and forward acceleration slows momentarily. If I press the accelerator slowly,, then this happens less, it's when I press quickly that it occurs. The car is too rich and needs proper tuning so I backed off the boost. BUT WHAT A FEELING!
And I ditched the rally car/muscle car brake booster pump. It worked good, but now I'm plumbed in normal. Brakes feel the same.
04-27-2016, 11:30 AM
