DIY at Home Swap
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
DIY at Home Swap
Hi there,
Just wondering if anyone has done an engine and transmission swap at home with basic tools and floor jack?
I have done clutches before but that was on a lift with professional tools.
Just wondering how difficult it would be at home, outside in my parking spot.
I got an S2 part car and I want to swap the engine and transmission with my beautiful 944 automatic.
Thanks,
Just wondering if anyone has done an engine and transmission swap at home with basic tools and floor jack?
I have done clutches before but that was on a lift with professional tools.
Just wondering how difficult it would be at home, outside in my parking spot.
I got an S2 part car and I want to swap the engine and transmission with my beautiful 944 automatic.
Thanks,
#2
I pulled the engine in my 968. As I recall from other forum info, you need to be able to get the front of the car jacked up 20 some inches. With that, you can drop the engine on the floor on some cardboard. A little pushing/pulling and you can get the engine out from under the car. You do need room to manage an engine hoist in front of, and alongside the car. It was a tight fit for me, but did make it.
Didn't take the tranny out, but I'd think elevating the front and rear about the same would make it easier to work on the rear too. Need several jack stands and quite a few 12" pieces of 4x4 to stack up under things while working on the removal.
One other bit of advice. I kept the whole exhaust in one piece. Put some blocks under it, disconnected at the factor headers, and at each of the hangers. Then pulled it all out in one piece. That way I didn't have to mess with any of the pipe connectors which can be difficult to get apart, and back together later.
Didn't take the tranny out, but I'd think elevating the front and rear about the same would make it easier to work on the rear too. Need several jack stands and quite a few 12" pieces of 4x4 to stack up under things while working on the removal.
One other bit of advice. I kept the whole exhaust in one piece. Put some blocks under it, disconnected at the factor headers, and at each of the hangers. Then pulled it all out in one piece. That way I didn't have to mess with any of the pipe connectors which can be difficult to get apart, and back together later.
#3
Rennlist Member
I did the engine recently using home tools.
I had to get a bit tricky to get the car up high enough, but once it was there it was fairly straight forward.
If you have access to a lift, the job would be a bunch easier, as accessing some of the top bolts with the car that high in the air is a damn challenge.
I'd also suggest you consider one of the engine supports that goes to the side rails of the bonnet (or a block and tackle on the roof) for the first chunk of the swap, as not having an engine stand in the way makes life a LOT easier.
I had to get a bit tricky to get the car up high enough, but once it was there it was fairly straight forward.
If you have access to a lift, the job would be a bunch easier, as accessing some of the top bolts with the car that high in the air is a damn challenge.
I'd also suggest you consider one of the engine supports that goes to the side rails of the bonnet (or a block and tackle on the roof) for the first chunk of the swap, as not having an engine stand in the way makes life a LOT easier.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
thanks for the advice. Roughly how long did it take?
I only have Saturday`s half day Sundays.
I should wait until my exams are over at the end of next month but I dont think I have the will power. the parts car will arrive tomorrow.
I only have Saturday`s half day Sundays.
I should wait until my exams are over at the end of next month but I dont think I have the will power. the parts car will arrive tomorrow.
#5
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For that swap you'll want to do the entire drivetrain (engine/driveshaft/transaxle)
Then you'll need to transfer the clutch pedals/hydraulics to the automatic as well.
Normally I'd say pull the engine out the top but since you're going this far, you may as well just drop the entire drivetrain as a unit. Remove the rear suspension, and unbolt the trans and front suspension, disconnect a few hoses and wires and the whole thing will come down.
Then you'll need to transfer the clutch pedals/hydraulics to the automatic as well.
Normally I'd say pull the engine out the top but since you're going this far, you may as well just drop the entire drivetrain as a unit. Remove the rear suspension, and unbolt the trans and front suspension, disconnect a few hoses and wires and the whole thing will come down.
#6
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,045
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Why out the top. About to swap a rebuilt engine into my S2 cab and am thinking top to avoid doing the suspension / x member removal again although most remove the engine from the bottom.
I am doing the job in my garage with jack stands and a motor hoist.
Mark
I am doing the job in my garage with jack stands and a motor hoist.
Mark
#7
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Removing the top is easy if you have a tall enough hoist and don't want to mess with the suspension at all.
Pull the radiator out, remove the hood, unhook the exhaust system, 4 bolts on the torque tube, 2 per motor mount, some wires and hoses, and it's out. Hardest part is turning the engine the right way to get the PS pulley past the hood latch.
But again, in this case, I would say drop the whole assembly from the bottom and roll the S2 stuff into place.
Pull the radiator out, remove the hood, unhook the exhaust system, 4 bolts on the torque tube, 2 per motor mount, some wires and hoses, and it's out. Hardest part is turning the engine the right way to get the PS pulley past the hood latch.
But again, in this case, I would say drop the whole assembly from the bottom and roll the S2 stuff into place.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I was hoping someone would say that, I could drop the whole drive-train. Then I will have to move the body some how... Sounds daunting again, can I pull the whole drivetrain as one over to the 944 in waiting? Considering I plan the strip the S2 completely I guess once the bumper and radiator is out then front clearance wont be much of an issue.
I first work on getting it started this weekend. I should get it in 4 hours.
I still dont know how to insert photos here
I first work on getting it started this weekend. I should get it in 4 hours.
I still dont know how to insert photos here
#9
Rennlist Member
Transmission removal is easy, I dropped one in my apartment parking lot without much difficulty. The only "special" tools you'll need are a 8mm allen key socket (in case your allen key isn't getting you the torque you need) and a triple-square set for the CV bolts. Link
Jack stands and a dolly jack are the bare minimum, I would have a second jack (or even better, a second pair of hands) if you can, it makes it a lot smoother.
It's possible to drop everything behind the motor in one nice big piece, although the torque tube is really crappy to deal with. Much easier to just move the motor and trans and leave the torque tube and rear suspension in place.
Jack stands and a dolly jack are the bare minimum, I would have a second jack (or even better, a second pair of hands) if you can, it makes it a lot smoother.
It's possible to drop everything behind the motor in one nice big piece, although the torque tube is really crappy to deal with. Much easier to just move the motor and trans and leave the torque tube and rear suspension in place.
#10
Drifting
I swapped transmission in the parking spot back when I lived at my university's dorm. Transmission is pretty easy. I used a motorcycle/atv jack and used truck straps to strap the transmission to the jack for removal and installation.
i haven't done an engine removal but it's much more work.
sausage hacker how do you lift the whole tranny/ torque tube rear suspension to install it. looks like it'd be tough to install.
i haven't done an engine removal but it's much more work.
sausage hacker how do you lift the whole tranny/ torque tube rear suspension to install it. looks like it'd be tough to install.
#13
Transmission removal is easy, I dropped one in my apartment parking lot without much difficulty. The only "special" tools you'll need are a 8mm allen key socket (in case your allen key isn't getting you the torque you need) and a triple-square set for the CV bolts. Link
Jack stands and a dolly jack are the bare minimum, I would have a second jack (or even better, a second pair of hands) if you can, it makes it a lot smoother.
It's possible to drop everything behind the motor in one nice big piece, although the torque tube is really crappy to deal with. Much easier to just move the motor and trans and leave the torque tube and rear suspension in place.
Jack stands and a dolly jack are the bare minimum, I would have a second jack (or even better, a second pair of hands) if you can, it makes it a lot smoother.
It's possible to drop everything behind the motor in one nice big piece, although the torque tube is really crappy to deal with. Much easier to just move the motor and trans and leave the torque tube and rear suspension in place.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Wow. I am enboldened. I do it!! I need to buy another jack and stands anyway. I will be doing it outside on semi gravel, alone.
The car arrived yesterday. Not surprisingly the paint is baked and interior cloth dried out.
Also not surprising the engine won't turn. Good thing. However, the clutch is siezed in the up position.
I'll resist the temptation to crank it.
At the very least I'll pull the plugs and cam cover and timing cover. Spray some carb cleaner and sprinkle some oil on the cams and fill the oil from there to lube up as much as possible.
Drain the old oil and gas first.
Try to turn the engine by hand.
Bleed the clutch and grease up the mechanism. Let it sit for the weekend while I relax at a small island resort.
Don't know why the owner abandoned it. The seller said the car was driven in to his dads shop 10 years ago and there it sat.
All electrics work except for the blower motor.
The car arrived yesterday. Not surprisingly the paint is baked and interior cloth dried out.
Also not surprising the engine won't turn. Good thing. However, the clutch is siezed in the up position.
I'll resist the temptation to crank it.
At the very least I'll pull the plugs and cam cover and timing cover. Spray some carb cleaner and sprinkle some oil on the cams and fill the oil from there to lube up as much as possible.
Drain the old oil and gas first.
Try to turn the engine by hand.
Bleed the clutch and grease up the mechanism. Let it sit for the weekend while I relax at a small island resort.
Don't know why the owner abandoned it. The seller said the car was driven in to his dads shop 10 years ago and there it sat.
All electrics work except for the blower motor.
#15
Rennlist Member