V2Rocket

Pull the engine to do the clutch and WYAIT do the mounts/seals/belts/WP/everything else...may as well start fresh.

jhowell371

When I bought my first 944, a 1984 with 22K in 2010 it still had the original belts!!!!!!!! PO only ever changed the oil and filter. All belts, rollers, water pump and hoses were replaced ASAP.

Jfrahm

If it is an S2 or 968 I would not worry about the belt, just schedule to change it with all the other catch-up you need to do on the car and whatever new issues present after some driving. The skinny little 8v belt is another story.

If it is an S2 I'd for-sure check and set the belt tension but that is a 10 minute job. Then drive it a while and make a list of all the leaks and whatnot and start shopping parts.

-Joel.

V2Rocket

If the belt was installed more than 1 presidential administration ago, it's time to change it, no matter how many valves are attached to the other end.

Tom R.

The car is halfway across the country from me. Before I spring for a PPI I want to guesstimate what I will be in for. That's why I am figuring I will have to replace within a short time of buying the car the following major items - original motor mounts, original clutch, over ten year old belts (water pump is mileage IMHO), and ball joints if the arms have 75k or more on them.

The other small items get lost in the calculations. Say the car in solid #2 condition (#1s don't get driven) is worth about 7500 with the above done. What's it worth if all else checks out OK?

The market value hasn't changed much for the 944 in the last 5 years IMHO. I got about 7500 for my S2 with about 72k miles, new belts, spring clutch, SSK, M474, no dash cracks, etc. and pretty decent paint. So IMHO unless it's an 951/S2 no NA/NA-S with over say 50k is going to fetch more than 7500. That's why I used 7500 above.

Am I far off in my calculations?

I would agree on a price, set it up for a PPI, then if it passes PPI have the shop do the belts on my dime, then fly in and drive it back.

Darwantae951

I find it funny that you talk about giving bad advice and then say that if a timing belt breaks you need a new head "best case."

ZR8ED

I should pass this thread on to a friend of mine test driving around the block his new to him 87 300zx with a 10yr old belt on a fully built high compression highly modded v6. I've warned him... to replace those heads and have them ported/polished/cc'd/shaved again would be more than he paid for the car.

As for my opinion. I would not drive it further than needed. (ie to see if the car runs before purchase or go around the block to bring it home.) It is still a risk though.

gerhard951

+1 on Morghen...dont even start it!

mytrplseven

Long distance shipping is between $500 and $800. The cost of a new head replacement or rebuild (due to belt failure) is twice that ( labor included). Additionally, you're going to need to drain the gas, install new: fuel filter, rebuild the injectors, flush brake fluid, new water pump, oil and filter, belts and get ready for all the rubber engine seals. If they aren't leaking now they will be in no time. I'd plan to do them at same time as the belts (WYIT). Clutch replacement is the prime opportunity to do the Rear Main Seal. I'd consider replacing the clutch with a conventional spring-plate, i.e., Sachs, etc. This has been how I did my latest acquisition and It's worth knowing the car is now solid and reliable.

Dougs951S

Yeah, N/a heads are cheap, if a belt broke and bent some valves I wouldnt bother rebuilding it, a used head is cheaper and easier. Worst case is it also scars up some pistons. I'm well aware of what I said.

Darwantae951

Depending on what's bent, for brand new valves you'll pay between $15 (intake/new/NA) and $30 (exhaust/new/NA)

So you can either:

1) Buy a head already gone thru, but you'll pay a slight premium most likely because the seller will want to recoup some of the cost of the rebuild.

2) Buy a so-so head and have it gone thru, so you'll eat the cost of the head plus the rebuild (I don't think anyone would throw any head onto an engine without at least having it checked, and probably better to put it on fresh to ensure everything is in working order [but that's just me and I may be different...who knows...])

3) Buy replacement valves (worst case four exhaust, best case 4 intake, but could also be a mixture) and then have your head gone thru and install the new valves.

Do whatever YOU like, but don't make it sound like buying a new head is a requirement. The least you can do is list his options if it happens so that he is at least informed of the processes by which he can proceed.

Yummybud924

can't you just replace the belt before leaving? if you don't change the pump the belt is pretty easy to replace.

I do agree that some people exaggerate how common belt failures are. you also don't need a tensioning tool like a lot of people claim, unless you have no idea what you are doing then it's probably best not to touch the belts.

anyways you can get a new belt on without removing the crank gear. all you need to do is get a alternator and ps belt off the cover off and then you can get the balance shaft and tb off. shouldn't take long if you've done it before.

a belt that is over 10 years old is pretty risky.

jeffrsmith

Drive it and you might get lucky, but it is a very real possibility that with the age of that belt this thread could turn quickly into a "told you so" thread.

odurandina

I had 116 k miles on the original belts in my 944S (24 years ago)...
I tempted the fates and just drove the f_cker everywhere.

Grandpa#3

You do not mention just what you are buying or how far away the car is located. What with the Belts being that old I'd have the car towed to a repair shop and ALL Belts changed. The old gas has to be drained and Fuel Filter Changed before even trying to start the car. The crowd I run in advise a Cam (Timing) Belt change every 3 years or 30k miles whichever comes first. All rollers are checked at belt change and replaced as needed. The water pump is changed every other belt change. ZIMS seems to have the best rebuilt water pumps IMHO. As for the clutch, on the PPI they can measure the wear. A Rubber Centered Clutch hardens over time and cracks. It does have "Limp Home" metal ears for emergency limp home, but l'd not trust it for 100 miles. Around home I'd run it until I felt the clutch fail and the "Limp Home" ears make contact. You can look up on You Tube how to change a 944 Water Pump and it shows how to change and tension a Cam and Balance Shaft Belt. Any way you go I wish you the best with your new car.

Cheers,
Larry