How far would you drive the car?

A car in inquired about had the belt changed in 2001 about 14,000 miles ago.

I emailed the seller about the self grenade potential and suggested he do a web search. If he ends up here I would like him to see what the enthusiasts have to say.

Now I have to tally up what things like a belt change, motor mounts, and clutch will run and decide if it is the right car for me.

 

I would drive it into the workspace where I would change the belt.

 

Why the clutch? is it blown? Same with the mounts? are they for sure collapsed? the belts are pretty quick if your not doing the pump. I would only drive the car a few miles to get it to the workspace as spencer said.

 

If I had to go pay and pick it up, I'd bring it home on a trailer. If he was going to deliver it, I'd pay after it arrived!

 

Clutch is original. How much time would you give the 25 year old rubber disc?
Motor mounts are original, what are the odds they are not collapsed?
Even if it is 100 miles from me, I would have the shop that does the PPI change the belts, and then drive it home.

 

I'm sure it would be fine for a short drive. No doubt there are oodles of neglected 944's still running around with timing belts from the 80's or 90's. I'd drive the car the 100 miles home, but wouldn't push my luck beyond that. But that's just me.

Clutch is a true ticking time bomb. I have a friend that has 75k on his '83 with the original clutch. Told him he better swap it out soon. "Nah it's good". Ate his words 3 weeks later. Just drive it, and when the clutch goes, it goes..

 

Please don't give bad advice like this, driving a car with a 13 year old timing belt 100 feet let alone 100 miles is rolling the dice. Our cars break belts all the time even when they are relatively new and properly looked after. The belt is a much more important maintenance item than the clutch is. If the clutch dies on a drive home, you tow it home and put a clutch in it, or more likely just limp it home. If a timing belt breaks, you need a new head best case scenario.

 

By your logic driving a 944 at all is rolling the dice with all these relatively new and properly adjusted timing belts breaking all the time. The OP can do as he wishes, but in response to the question he posed, I would personally drive it the 100 miles and immediately do a major. I don't dispute belts break nor do I advocate driving on old belts, but I think the issue is sensationalized to silly extremes much like the M96/M97 IMS failures. No need to jump down anyone's throat. /discussion

 

the belt will be brittle, simply due to age.
i have gone to work on cars where the belts were overdue, and was able to snap the belts by hand...by doing the "twist test" for tension.

 

The big culprit of failed belts is a siezed waterpump. Often due to improper coolant and letting the car sit!

Change the belt all you want but a siezed pump will destroy a new belt.

 

I would drive the clutch till it failed. My 924s had a rubber center clutch from 1991, I drove the car a lot including dozens of auto x events and it still looked good when I pulled the motor after the car was hit. The motor mounts measured correctly too, make sure you check those before throwing the money at new ones. It may not be needed.

The belt system is the number 1 priority here by far.

 

i would not turn the motor over without installing the new belt.

 

Having changed mounts recently and seeing how they are made and where they are placed (esp. the exhaust side one), I think the chances are low that after 25 years they are both still good.

As far as the belt, 14 years is a really long time for any rubber cam belt! I'd be nervous about driving that.

You should post the question on a Ferrari page! They'd have a heart attack!

 

I'm fairly sure any 944 question on a Ferrari page would generate a heart attack

 

Driving on a sheared rubber clutch for 100 miles (gently) will do no harm, that can wait, so can the motor mounts if they need it. Doing just the belts but none of the rollers, WP, etc., can be done real quickly at the PO's if you have the tools. Drive it home then do a proper front end with WP, rollers, etc at your leisure. I'd guess if you have to pay someone to trailer/flatbed it home the cost would be close to $500? (if you use a licensed hauler)

Sitting that long I'd wonder if the fuel pump and injectors are all gummed up.