Sanding down and painting a car
08-05-2014, 03:12 PM
#61
Looks pretty rough tbh but I'm assuming you've never done it before and I guess I'd be happy just to attempt and complete it. I've seen some rustoleum jobs that look pretty good though, maybe with a couple more tries you can get it looking decent.
08-05-2014, 03:24 PM
#63
The picture of the front (last one) may be rougher than it actually is because that was taken in the rain and the beads may be throwing off the texture in the photo.
With that said, even the "smoothest" areas still have that "roller" texture so it's not like that perfect factory smoothness.
I think I could do a better job next time. I would try brushing it though to see if that would get it smoother.
With that said, even the "smoothest" areas still have that "roller" texture so it's not like that perfect factory smoothness.
I think I could do a better job next time. I would try brushing it though to see if that would get it smoother.
08-06-2014, 05:34 PM
#65
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honestly, looks better than i expected. certainly the only green jetta i've seen. don't know if you wanna spend anymore time on it, but perhaps wet sanding and buffing (aka cut and buff) would clean it up a bit and give you some shine. either way, better than what it was.
08-08-2014, 01:24 AM
#66
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I painted a piece of our 944S front fender with rustoleum a few weeks ago where the paint was peeling.
I was lazy, and testing. I used 320 wet dry, shot the piece with primer and rustoleum red. two weeks later I drove the car to the track, and showed my co owner the area I painted.
Before I painted it he said "go ahead, you cant make it any worse"
When he saw the piece I painted he said "why did you stop there, look at these chips you could have painted"
I may paint the car with rustoleum this winter for shytz and giggles.
I was lazy, and testing. I used 320 wet dry, shot the piece with primer and rustoleum red. two weeks later I drove the car to the track, and showed my co owner the area I painted.
Before I painted it he said "go ahead, you cant make it any worse"
When he saw the piece I painted he said "why did you stop there, look at these chips you could have painted"
I may paint the car with rustoleum this winter for shytz and giggles.
08-08-2014, 10:33 AM
#67
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Dang, I thought I cheaped out when I sprayed my car with $500 of ShopLine automotive paint.
You're going to want a primer sealer of some sort between your old and new paint, unless you know that the two are compatible. Otherwise you might get solvent issues. Sanding to bare metal will require a wash prime followed by a surfacing primer to block at the very least. You can take off paint with 180 if you're going to use some surfacer primer and then you'd want to block that to at least 320.
The water based paint that I spray at work needs 800-1000 grit for metallic paints to avoid metallic tracking, 500 grit for solid colors.
Painters tape is what we use, but it's automotive specific and won't react with the paint and cuts pretty fine lines. Shops usually remove door handles, bumpers, trim, etc. Taping around those tends to leave hard lines and a less than professional job.
Clear coat depends on the system, single stage doesn't use clear coat, two stage does. Single stage needs buffed and waxed every so often, clear coat doesn't. Many specific car paints exist, PPG makes some of the most widely used automotive paints. Find a local jobber or ask a local body shop where they get their paint from. Spray technique and number of coats depends on the paint. Some are easy to spray and you spray to match (2-3 coats) others are a pain and you spray to cover (3+ coats).
Automotive paints are made to be sprayed with a gun with a nice pattern.
As for the other routes I wouldn't know, but I thought I'd give you a glimpse of how it'd be done.
You're going to want a primer sealer of some sort between your old and new paint, unless you know that the two are compatible. Otherwise you might get solvent issues. Sanding to bare metal will require a wash prime followed by a surfacing primer to block at the very least. You can take off paint with 180 if you're going to use some surfacer primer and then you'd want to block that to at least 320.
The water based paint that I spray at work needs 800-1000 grit for metallic paints to avoid metallic tracking, 500 grit for solid colors.
Painters tape is what we use, but it's automotive specific and won't react with the paint and cuts pretty fine lines. Shops usually remove door handles, bumpers, trim, etc. Taping around those tends to leave hard lines and a less than professional job.
Clear coat depends on the system, single stage doesn't use clear coat, two stage does. Single stage needs buffed and waxed every so often, clear coat doesn't. Many specific car paints exist, PPG makes some of the most widely used automotive paints. Find a local jobber or ask a local body shop where they get their paint from. Spray technique and number of coats depends on the paint. Some are easy to spray and you spray to match (2-3 coats) others are a pain and you spray to cover (3+ coats).
Automotive paints are made to be sprayed with a gun with a nice pattern.
As for the other routes I wouldn't know, but I thought I'd give you a glimpse of how it'd be done.