Sanding down and painting a car
#47
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Just out of curiosity... Does anyone know about how much a good repaint costs? I don't mean a show-quality job, necessarily, but something equivalent to the original new-car quality. Assuming all work is done by the shop.
#48
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It depends on how much body work has to be done. Its a $$/hr thing. Up here if I dropped the car off and had the shop strip the trim, handles, etc, It would be north of 4K. On the other hand if i do all the prep and have the shop spray a prime, base and top coat it's just north of 1K and I put it all back together.
#50
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I got some left over paint from when I repainted my bathroom, I even got a roller to go with it. I'll let you have it for free to paint your car. Although you might want to get brush so you can get to hard to reach spots. Or I think I have some finger paints laying around from my nephews, hopefully you can figure out how to use them.
#51
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Thanks, I already have all the supplies, the only thing left to research is why the rust-oleum instructionals never mention clearcoat, I guess they're not applying it.
#52
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ok I've been searching the internet like crazy about how long to wait between coats of (oil based) rustoleum before the next coat.
I'm getting anywhere from 5 minutes to 48 hours along with the usual "don't do it"s but most discussions are people using the spray can rather than brushing it on.
Given that it's DC and the weather is at 70 on up, any ideas on how long to let it dry before brushing on the next coat?
I'm getting anywhere from 5 minutes to 48 hours along with the usual "don't do it"s but most discussions are people using the spray can rather than brushing it on.
Given that it's DC and the weather is at 70 on up, any ideas on how long to let it dry before brushing on the next coat?
#53
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any mention of spray bombs with painting a Porsche..... even a lowly 944 is showing fitness for that special place on rl.... and speaking of that special place, John finally abyssed my o.o.t. Mayan calendar/2012 dedication thread..... I had misplaced the memo that o.o.t. had gone down the sad road to self mutilation even to the point of cutting his finger off. in my haste of the everyday business of life, I'd forgotten all about it. but then suddenly remembered when I got to thinking as to why John felt the need to nuke it - that the guy had gone a bit further and suicided himself (through self-imposed starvation). still, I don't think my thread was anywhere near as absurd as suggesting that you'd actually attempt to paint metal using a bomb in high humidity. sounds almost as bizarre as the time one of the fake Oswald's went to test drive a car and threatened JFK even though he didn't have driver's license and was still in Russia at the time (more than a year before the hit on our 35th president). still, it made it into the Warren Report - which must have pissed off Dulles but good.
#54
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Here's what I was hoping to get (that I learned today):
6 hours dry to the touch
12 hours to sand/smooth
24 hours completely dry (given 70 degree weather at 50% humidity, increase time for lower temperatures and/or higher humidity)
Do not put on a second coat until completely dry (i.e. 24 hours)
6 hours dry to the touch
12 hours to sand/smooth
24 hours completely dry (given 70 degree weather at 50% humidity, increase time for lower temperatures and/or higher humidity)
Do not put on a second coat until completely dry (i.e. 24 hours)
#57
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I still think you should use finger paints. Hell if you dont give a **** and are set on doing this as ****ty as possible, use crayons. Actually that maybe too difficult for you.
#59
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you should at least pay your $17 to become a rennlist member if you are going to hang around and be a smart ***
#60
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Ok here's what I did:
- Hammered/pulled out the dents
- Mixed body filler
- Used a plastic spreader to spread body filler
- Taped off lights, windows, mirrors, etc. (should have taped off wheels)
- Sanded the filler and existing clearcoat off
- Sanded enough to scuff the paint
- Applied one coat of grey Rustoleum oil-based primer
- Mixed Rustoleum oil-based paints to the color I wanted and mixed an extra gallon for reserve. Used a pint of leveler (don't think it helped much though)
- Waited 24 hours for the primer to dry
- Applied the first coat with a roller and brushes
- Waited 24 hours
- Applied the second coat with a roller and brushes
- Waited 72 hours before allowing it to be exposed to rain
It's rough, and while there are 1,000 things that could have been done better, I still say the best job is that which is complete.
- Hammered/pulled out the dents
- Mixed body filler
- Used a plastic spreader to spread body filler
- Taped off lights, windows, mirrors, etc. (should have taped off wheels)
- Sanded the filler and existing clearcoat off
- Sanded enough to scuff the paint
- Applied one coat of grey Rustoleum oil-based primer
- Mixed Rustoleum oil-based paints to the color I wanted and mixed an extra gallon for reserve. Used a pint of leveler (don't think it helped much though)
- Waited 24 hours for the primer to dry
- Applied the first coat with a roller and brushes
- Waited 24 hours
- Applied the second coat with a roller and brushes
- Waited 72 hours before allowing it to be exposed to rain
It's rough, and while there are 1,000 things that could have been done better, I still say the best job is that which is complete.