Sanding down and painting a car
#16
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I'll prove you wrong then ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The thing is, my car's paint is already super thin and multiple shades anyway, due to a previous owner's Maaco (or homemade) awful paint job. The original dark sienna red is starting to show through on high points in the fenders and hood. Trust me, rattle cans is a HUGE upgrade from current and plenty good enough til I am out of a school and do it professionally
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The thing is, my car's paint is already super thin and multiple shades anyway, due to a previous owner's Maaco (or homemade) awful paint job. The original dark sienna red is starting to show through on high points in the fenders and hood. Trust me, rattle cans is a HUGE upgrade from current and plenty good enough til I am out of a school and do it professionally
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#17
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Check out this place http://eastwood.com/. They have pretty good prices on primers, single stage and basecoat/clearcoat paints. They do not custom mix though, so the colors are limited. They have videos and instructions on how to use the paint too. I use the epoxy primer, 2k sandable primer, and the single stage paint. It works really well and is WAY cheaper than buying at the automotive paint store.
#18
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How do you go about sanding the area below the doors where the undercoating is rough, do you smooth it flat as the rest of the car?
And has anyone dealt with paintscratch.com for color matched paint?
And has anyone dealt with paintscratch.com for color matched paint?
#19
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I have used paintscratch. Had to paint a new gas door for my wife's car - worked out pretty well!
#20
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I've seen a few house paint and a brush jobs over the years which is a great option for the budget conscious diy'ers. Just use matt paint and make sure all the brush lines are in the same direction and it will look trick.
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#21
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I was looking at using SprayMax to paint my bumper a while back but decided to focus my money on go before show.
It's basically auto paint in a can without having to have a compressor and gun. You hit a button on the bottom of the can and it mixes the paint and hardener inside, and then you spray just like a rattle can.
It's $20 per can which is pricey but they match the factory color and the paint will be more durable than regular rattle can paint. Probably not good for doing a whole car but small projects it would be pretty cost effective for a nicer result.
This is the link to it if anyone's interested:
http://www.66autocolor.com/Automotiv.../spm-mix2k.htm
It's basically auto paint in a can without having to have a compressor and gun. You hit a button on the bottom of the can and it mixes the paint and hardener inside, and then you spray just like a rattle can.
It's $20 per can which is pricey but they match the factory color and the paint will be more durable than regular rattle can paint. Probably not good for doing a whole car but small projects it would be pretty cost effective for a nicer result.
This is the link to it if anyone's interested:
http://www.66autocolor.com/Automotiv.../spm-mix2k.htm
#22
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Matches original shade is such a joke. If anyone has ever seen how many variants there are on a colar code they would faint, not to mention many shades of the same code are not even in the same zip code. Just my little input, having been in and around this industry for so long ( btw unfortunately I am no painter or body man).
#23
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I painted a number of cars, and I learned by doing. you can do this but you can't start out with the wrong attitude. There are plenty of books and articles on what to do, and a good automotive finish shop will advise you. you can get by with a 7 CFM compressor, I did several cars that way, and I just sold it for $250, so I know they are out there at that price. You can use an older siphon feed gun and spray modern finishes, I've done it. I have seen suitable guns for sale and I have bought them for $5 or less. You do not need a power sander, but an air powered sander is very handy - a jitterbug type sander costs $10 used, and about $30 new (from china). But you have been given good advice - if you aren't willing to learn what to do and spend the time, don't do it. I did my first car when I had a lot less money than you, I substituted hand labor for money, and had a shop do the top coat. it came out very nice.
#24
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I can't figure out if Mr. Quickie is joking or what. If not, based on the incredibly naive questions, don't even being to try doing this yourself. Get a cheapo Earl Scheib or similar paint job for a few hundred dollars.
#25
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Urethane fades in a year or two. The best option imo is nitro based base coat and nitro based clear coat. Unfortunately in europe nitro paints are baned and we have to use water based stuff.
#26
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These cars with solid colours all came with single stage paint from the factory, and when maintained it can last for years. Also, single stage is a DIY'er's best friend...you can absolutely spiff a car on a budget.
#27
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I don't know where you get your data about "solid colors" or exactly what you mean by "solid color". I can tell you 100% for certain that MY car, an 85.5 painted sapphire mist metallic by the factory, had a clearcoat on it when delivered.
#28
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Not sure for how long, but for at least the first few years of the 944 (maybe all 944s?), any car in a solid non-metallic color came factory from Porsche with a single stage paint, no clear. Hence why people pick up crappy looking "Guards Pink" cars and buff them back to an amazing shine.
#29
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possibly true, I only have specific data on cars with metallic paint - the car I bought new (mentioned above), my daughter's 86 (with "Champaign" metallic) and an 87 that was silver. I did at one time have a red 84, but I didn't do any paint work so no opinion as to whether it was clear coated or not. I will note, that adding a light coat of clear lacquer is a quick way to give some durability to a finish and protect it from fading, it takes less than a quart to clearcoat a 944 with a light coat.
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Great videos Van thanks! Did you had a fan to create a negative vacuum in the room to keep the dust to a minimum? I am about to re-spray my 83' and need all the help i can get!